We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
We're aware that some users are experiencing technical issues which the team are working to resolve. Thank you for your patience.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Method and materials to finish building built-in alcove cabinets
Options

Ben1989
Posts: 470 Forumite

Hi all
I spontaneously decided to attempt creating built-in alcove cabinets.
It's an alcove that's roughly 1050mm wide by 400mm deep. I therefore decided to start with a 1000mm x 570 kitchen base unit. I've attached a little birds eye view of the unit. I'm wondering what method to make it look more professional in terms of adjoining a side panel against the continuous wall and the more complex chimney breast end. I'm thinking come sort of L-shaped panel to take it against the wall.
Would MDF be suitable for this? Also, what material for the worktop? I plan to paint it all so would MDF be suitable because I know cut edges can be 'fluffy'.
I bought matching kitchen unit doors so they're taken cared of at least.
I spontaneously decided to attempt creating built-in alcove cabinets.
It's an alcove that's roughly 1050mm wide by 400mm deep. I therefore decided to start with a 1000mm x 570 kitchen base unit. I've attached a little birds eye view of the unit. I'm wondering what method to make it look more professional in terms of adjoining a side panel against the continuous wall and the more complex chimney breast end. I'm thinking come sort of L-shaped panel to take it against the wall.
Would MDF be suitable for this? Also, what material for the worktop? I plan to paint it all so would MDF be suitable because I know cut edges can be 'fluffy'.
I bought matching kitchen unit doors so they're taken cared of at least.
0
Comments
-
Picture below
0 -
Possibly a bit late now, but.... You can get slim line cabinets that are around 400mm deep. Failing that, use standard wall units and attach legs to them - I did the latter where I needed a shallow unit in my utility room. Legs are readily available from Screwfix, Toolstation, and the usual DIY sheds.To avoid the fluffy edge on MDF, glue a thin strip of wood to the cut edge. Sand an paint.Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Thanks Freebear. I actually want the deeper units for more storage space0
-
The best way I have found to deal with cut MDF fluffy edges is to skim them over with fine surface filler, then sand everything back flush. It gives a nice smooth finish to paint onto0
-
Not sure what you mean by an 'L'-shaped panel, but just a normal MDF fillet would usually be fitted to fill the gaps. Either set in slightly, or flush with the front - depends on what looks best:As for the fluffy MDF edge, yup, you'll have that. What I did was to add a dado rail along the front. The unit top is just 12mm MDF, tho' braced underneath to make it sturdy enough. All of this unit - apart from the timber dado rail - is made from 12mm MDF, doubled in thickness for the front frame, for example. The dado moulding makes the 12mm top look 'thick'.Top is mini-foam-rollered in Satinwood - this gives a good finish on large flat surfaces, and is durable, important for tops. Actual unit is just brush-painted in emulsion.2
-
Thanks all some great suggestions, especially the dado rail idea - genius.
What I mean by L-shaped feature is to make it seem all one unit like below, especially as it sticks out.
1 -
I hadn’t thought of using dado rail for finishing off, but it’s the sort of thing that architrave was invented for.No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?1
-
Ben1989 said:Thanks all some great suggestions, especially the dado rail idea - genius.
What I mean by L-shaped feature is to make it seem all one unit like below, especially as it sticks out.
Paint the filler panel the unit front colour so it looks part of it, unit top and dado trim also go right to wall to cover it all, so it looks like a wider unit, built-in. And dado rail mitred and 'returned' on breast side until it meets the breast front.0 -
ThisIsWeird said:Top is mini-foam-rollered in Satinwood - this gives a good finish on large flat surfaces, and is durable, important for tops. Actual unit is just brush-painted in emulsion.1
-
Thank you0
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 350.7K Banking & Borrowing
- 253K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.4K Spending & Discounts
- 243.7K Work, Benefits & Business
- 598.4K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.8K Life & Family
- 256.8K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards