Boiler flo

FreeBear

Aylesbury_Duck said: There's little point shivering in a cold house you can't afford to heat for several months a year if downsizing or moving to a more efficient house is going to make life physically and financially more comfortable.

For some of us, moving and/or downsizing to a more efficient property is just not an option. The upfront cost of buying/selling/moving is enough to prevent that.. Assuming that there are affordable and more efficient properties to move to.

The alternative is to spend money on improving the current property. The cost can be spread over a number of years as incremental improvements are made. Doing as much of the work as possible yourself help to keep expenditure down - This is the path I'm on, and apart from replacement windows & doors, insulation hasn't cost a great deal.

Olly_J

Andy499 said:

I bought some insulation yesterday. Im going to put it in the loft tomorrow on top of the current stuff which isnt very thick, also fill some gaps. I broke the bank buying it but I must do something

Another thing you can check is if you have any open chimney's, even behind unused gas fires; warm air will naturally rise up and then pull cold air in from any gaps and vents in the rest of the house to replace it, so by getting a chimney sheep to block them up, you can quickly cut down heat loss and improve the speed of which the house warms up.

Andy499

Olly_J said:

Andy499 said:

I bought some insulation yesterday. Im going to put it in the loft tomorrow on top of the current stuff which isnt very thick, also fill some gaps. I broke the bank buying it but I must do something

Another thing you can check is if you have any open chimney's, even behind unused gas fires; warm air will naturally rise up and then pull cold air in from any gaps and vents in the rest of the house to replace it, so by getting a chimney sheep to block them up, you can quickly cut down heat loss and improve the speed of which the house warms up.

We dont actually have a chimney, but thats a good point.

I need to improve the windows, im having them resealed from outside soon, this will help with insulation too

Aylesbury_Duck

Thick curtains are a good interim measure.  And fit them on a curtain track so they're tight to the wall.  The more fashionable poles are all very well, but they leave a big gap between curtain and wall.

Yorkshire_Pud

Silverbird65 said:

Good idea we did the same. The best we could couldn't get right into corners but topped up. The loft is freezing so it must insulated. Hope yours helps.

If there’s snow on yours and your neighbours roofs say in a terrace it’s fun to see who’s roof is clear (no or low insulation and heating on) or still covered in snow (insulated roof space or no heating on). Other variables can be at play but gives some idea of the benefits of insulation!

 I’m due a big top up in the loft including some areas that had no insulation at all due to area where I used to have a header tank pre combi, supposed to allow a bit of heat through ceiling to prevent freezing of tank.

Also measured up the hardboard loft hatch which I intend to glue a piece of 50mm cellotex or kingspan rigid wall batt stuff and ordered some Stormguard draught excluder strips to tack around the frame which the hatch rests upon that should prevent any draught/ warm air wasted through it. Every little bit helps I guess! Roof is very well ventilated as no roofing felt on one side. 

jvjack

@macman said "Why would you use a convector in place of mains gas CH; it costs 350% more to run? "   
I agree.
 
Like silverbird65  though i'm trying to get main room up to nice temp with radiator but cant get past 17 degreee over hours. So while room is 13 degrees best to stay warm.  And you can just trickle a nice heat from them while working out how to get main room warm.
 In my case new gas combi boiler.  Am testing it different ways but a second source of heat in the meantime is better than 13 degrees. 
And the info in this and other threads is so good. thanks to all. Flow temp next.
I just covered my useable gas fire with blanket ,  thanks olly_j . 

FreeBear

Yorkshire_Pud said: Also measured up the hardboard loft hatch which I intend to glue a piece of 50mm cellotex or kingspan rigid wall batt stuff and ordered some Stormguard draught excluder strips to tack around the frame which the hatch rests upon that should prevent any draught/ warm air wasted through it. Every little bit helps I guess! Roof is very well ventilated as no roofing felt on one side. 

My loft hatch, originally made from bits of T&G boards got replaced last month. It had some brush strips around the edge along with a bag of insulation stapled to the top. Always a cold draught coming in around the edges. Picked up a Manthorpe GL260 - Not the prettiest of things, and I needed to cut some ~20mm filler strips to make the hole a tad smaller. Well worth the £35 as the bathroom (where the hatch is located) is now noticeably warmer.

markin

The Flow temp should be adjusted in cold snaps, 5c boost should do it, And remember to put it back.

A pipe thermometer would be more accurate.

Yorkshire_Pud

FreeBear said:

Yorkshire_Pud said: Also measured up the hardboard loft hatch which I intend to glue a piece of 50mm cellotex or kingspan rigid wall batt stuff and ordered some Stormguard draught excluder strips to tack around the frame which the hatch rests upon that should prevent any draught/ warm air wasted through it. Every little bit helps I guess! Roof is very well ventilated as no roofing felt on one side. 

My loft hatch, originally made from bits of T&G boards got replaced last month. It had some brush strips around the edge along with a bag of insulation stapled to the top. Always a cold draught coming in around the edges. Picked up a Manthorpe GL260 - Not the prettiest of things, and I needed to cut some ~20mm filler strips to make the hole a tad smaller. Well worth the £35 as the bathroom (where the hatch is located) is now noticeably warmer.

Looks good. Might add a bit more weight on top of mine and a couple of swan neck bolts so it doesn’t ‘hover’ with air pressure.