Washing machine 80cm tall.

FreeBear

cymruchris said:

Lostintheclouds said:

rob7475 said:

Be careful with manufacturers claims on dimensions. I recently bought a Samsung machine as I needed something with a depth of less than 59cm so it would fit through our narrow cellar door. It turned up and was a few cm more than claimed so wouldn't fit. Ended up having to carry it down the cellar stairs which was fun!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Home-Kitchen-Appliances-WGG04409GB/dp/B09XHSF453/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1BFZ4O2DVTDBY&keywords=WGG04409GB&qid=1669213154&sprefix=wgg04409gb,aps,89&sr=8-5

This amazon advert for the Bosch WGG04409GB is claiming 63.5 centimetres high which seems suspiciously short.

Does anyone know what the consumer rights are if you buy something based on their given dimensions which then turn out to be unsuitably incorrect?

I wouldn't trust Amazon dimensions - especially as that listing is from a third party supplier - without checking with them first.

https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/product-list/washers-dryers/washing-machines/front-load-washing-machines/WGG04409GB#/Tabs=section-technical-overview

Dimensions of the product

848 x 598 x 588 mm

Gavin83

AFAIK all freestanding appliances are the same height as they expect a standard height of worktop. I suspect what's happened is someone has put a thicker floor in afterwards (or put something over the original tiles) which has reduced the available height.

Ultimately your only option might be integrated without a lot of modification work.

greensalad

Lostintheclouds said:

greensalad said:

These ones are 82cm, they are integrated style. Any chance you could get a kitchen door and plinth match?:

https://appliancentre.com/laundry/washing-machines/zenith-zwmi7120-built-in-7kg-1200-spin-washing-machine-with-drum-clean-white.html

https://appliancentre.com/laundry/washing-machines/blomberg-lwi284410-8kg-1400-spin-integrated-washing-machine-with-fast-full-load-white.html

The one in there at the moment is integrated - probably why I will have problems getting a free standing one (as they all seem to be around 85cm height). 

Just not sure how easy they are to put in as I was hoping to just pop round and pop it in (obviously connecting the pipes) without having to pay an "installation expert" do do any kind of joinery work.

If it's already integrated maybe not terrible to refit? You presumably already have the door and the plinth in that case. I would just check what the expected door and plinth size is for the modern integrated and compare it to what you have. Ideally it's the same, or it's bigger and can be trimmed. Bit of an issue if what you currently have is cut smaller than you need though.

The door shouldn't be too hard, even for DIY. If the hinges are in the same place then you would just swap out. If the hinges are not in the same place it's not the hardest thing to measure and screw them in correctly into the doors. May leave screw holes on the inside of the door if they're moved location.

How do the plinths currently fit in the kitchen? Are they popped onto the plastic legs? Being 90s kitchen I'm not sure if they were built differently then (probably better) but most recent kitchens I've seen have the plastic adjustable legs and then the plinths attach using a plastic clip that pops on. My mid 2000's kitchen has that too.

Rodders53

What is make and model of the bust machine?  Look for a similar brand, perhaps??

Have you measured twice or even three times.  800 mm clearance under a worktop top surface of 830mm seems a bit low.  Mine in Kitchen and Utility are 870 mm clear to the underside of the worktop.

Has the floor level been significantly built up by fitting laminate and underlay or similar (tiles even) in front of the existing floor units, including into this niche??  Is there a 'drop' in floor level under the existing machine at all?

BSH includes Bosch whose integrated seem to be 818mm high with adjustable feet that can add a further 12mm to 830mm...  Miele do machines that can be 'built under' by removing the lid and fitting a kit, but those still need 82cm clear https://www.miele.co.uk/e/building-under-kit-ubs-w1-g-9709940-p

Lostintheclouds

greensalad said:

If it's already integrated maybe not terrible to refit? You presumably already have the door and the plinth in that case. I would just check what the expected door and plinth size is for the modern integrated and compare it to what you have. Ideally it's the same, or it's bigger and can be trimmed. Bit of an issue if what you currently have is cut smaller than you need though.

The door shouldn't be too hard, even for DIY. If the hinges are in the same place then you would just swap out. If the hinges are not in the same place it's not the hardest thing to measure and screw them in correctly into the doors. May leave screw holes on the inside of the door if they're moved location.

How do the plinths currently fit in the kitchen? Are they popped onto the plastic legs? Being 90s kitchen I'm not sure if they were built differently then (probably better) but most recent kitchens I've seen have the plastic adjustable legs and then the plinths attach using a plastic clip that pops on. My mid 2000's kitchen has that too.

Just checked. Strangely the hinges to the wooden door are actually on the washing machine itself. 

Unfortunately I cannot see how the plinths fit in the kitchen properly as there is wood in the way that forms part of the adjoining cupboard (fitted kitchen) kind of like a skirting board, so its difficult to look underneath. Edit: Managed to at least pull the skirting board underneath out a bit so I can look through - it appears the washing machine is sat on a grey plastic thing - though that might actually be the washing machine itself.

The washing machine conked out during a wash cycle so the washing machine was full of standing water which I have now managed to drain out via a front drainage pipe  Bearing in mind the washing machine conked out during this cycle - I am hoping that whatever electrical mechanism that closes the drainage hole during a normal wash has not kept any water inside somewhere as I could do without having to call a plumber.

Hopefully I have at least saved that part.

.

Lostintheclouds

Rodders53 said:

What is make and model of the bust machine?  Look for a similar brand, perhaps??

Have you measured twice or even three times.  800 mm clearance under a worktop top surface of 830mm seems a bit low.  Mine in Kitchen and Utility are 870 mm clear to the underside of the worktop.

Has the floor level been significantly built up by fitting laminate and underlay or similar (tiles even) in front of the existing floor units, including into this niche??  Is there a 'drop' in floor level under the existing machine at all?

BSH includes Bosch whose integrated seem to be 818mm high with adjustable feet that can add a further 12mm to 830mm...  Miele do machines that can be 'built under' by removing the lid and fitting a kit, but those still need 82cm clear https://www.miele.co.uk/e/building-under-kit-ubs-w1-g-9709940-p

Yes. It is actually 84cm from the underside of the worktop to the floor around the whole kitchen.

The floor is wood, but I managed to measure under the cupboard behind the skirting board and there is only 1.5cm more (the thickness of the wood) to the actual hard concrete floor underneath.

So not allowing for any movement at all (like from a spin cycle) the gap I would have to get an appliance in is just 84cm with a total height gap of 85.5cm which does not give me any leeway at all. Darn! 

jennifernil

Lostintheclouds said:

greensalad said:

If it's already integrated maybe not terrible to refit? You presumably already have the door and the plinth in that case. I would just check what the expected door and plinth size is for the modern integrated and compare it to what you have. Ideally it's the same, or it's bigger and can be trimmed. Bit of an issue if what you currently have is cut smaller than you need though.

The door shouldn't be too hard, even for DIY. If the hinges are in the same place then you would just swap out. If the hinges are not in the same place it's not the hardest thing to measure and screw them in correctly into the doors. May leave screw holes on the inside of the door if they're moved location.

How do the plinths currently fit in the kitchen? Are they popped onto the plastic legs? Being 90s kitchen I'm not sure if they were built differently then (probably better) but most recent kitchens I've seen have the plastic adjustable legs and then the plinths attach using a plastic clip that pops on. My mid 2000's kitchen has that too.

Just checked. Strangely the hinges to the wooden door are actually on the washing machine itself. 

Unfortunately I cannot see how the plinths fit in the kitchen properly as there is wood in the way that forms part of the adjoining cupboard (fitted kitchen) kind of like a skirting board, so its difficult to look underneath. Edit: Managed to at least pull the skirting board underneath out a bit so I can look through - it appears the washing machine is sat on a grey plastic thing - though that might actually be the washing machine itself.

The washing machine conked out during a wash cycle so the washing machine was full of standing water which I have now managed to drain out via a front drainage pipe  Bearing in mind the washing machine conked out during this cycle - I am hoping that whatever electrical mechanism that closes the drainage hole during a normal wash has not kept any water inside somewhere as I could do without having to call a plumber.

Hopefully I have at least saved that part.

.

I would say that the  fixing for the door hinges being on the washing machine itself is pretty usual, certainly the ones our daughter has had have all had them like that.

This "skirting" you mention, is that not actually the plinth?  It would normally be continuous along under all the units and in front of the integrated WM.

If the floor has been fitted after the machine was installed, and does not continue under the machine, your biggest problem may be getting the old WM out over the edge of the floor.  If it has feet that adjust for levelling, try to screw  them in  as far as possible to give you the maximum headroom.

It might also be a good idea to level up the area of floor under the machine so it is flush with the main floor, this will make it easier to move the next machine in and out if required in the future.  That bit of floor will not be seen,  so just some plywood  of the correct thickness could be used.

Forwandert

Lostintheclouds said:

rob7475 said:

Be careful with manufacturers claims on dimensions. I recently bought a Samsung machine as I needed something with a depth of less than 59cm so it would fit through our narrow cellar door. It turned up and was a few cm more than claimed so wouldn't fit. Ended up having to carry it down the cellar stairs which was fun!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Home-Kitchen-Appliances-WGG04409GB/dp/B09XHSF453/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1BFZ4O2DVTDBY&keywords=WGG04409GB&qid=1669213154&sprefix=wgg04409gb,aps,89&sr=8-5

This amazon advert for the Bosch WGG04409GB is claiming 63.5 centimetres high which seems suspiciously short.

Does anyone know what the consumer rights are if you buy something based on their given dimensions which then turn out to be unsuitably incorrect?

Trouble I've found with Amazon and the dimensions is they either have the height with the legs/feet fully extended or at the lowest point instead of having the height as from x to x. I wanted to buy one from them but spent way too long figuring out which it was correct. Infcat quite a lot of appliance suppliers do it so you can have quite a large difference on websites in heights when they're the same machine. 

Silvertabby

Do you have a 'Euronics' nearby?

If so, they will measure beforehand (then if the new machine doesn't fit, it's on them) and then supply and fit the new machine.

We recently had to change our integral fridge/freezer, and they did an excellent job, even though the new hinges didn't match up with the old and so needed re-drilling.

greensalad

Lostintheclouds said:

greensalad said:

If it's already integrated maybe not terrible to refit? You presumably already have the door and the plinth in that case. I would just check what the expected door and plinth size is for the modern integrated and compare it to what you have. Ideally it's the same, or it's bigger and can be trimmed. Bit of an issue if what you currently have is cut smaller than you need though.

The door shouldn't be too hard, even for DIY. If the hinges are in the same place then you would just swap out. If the hinges are not in the same place it's not the hardest thing to measure and screw them in correctly into the doors. May leave screw holes on the inside of the door if they're moved location.

How do the plinths currently fit in the kitchen? Are they popped onto the plastic legs? Being 90s kitchen I'm not sure if they were built differently then (probably better) but most recent kitchens I've seen have the plastic adjustable legs and then the plinths attach using a plastic clip that pops on. My mid 2000's kitchen has that too.

Just checked. Strangely the hinges to the wooden door are actually on the washing machine itself. 

Unfortunately I cannot see how the plinths fit in the kitchen properly as there is wood in the way that forms part of the adjoining cupboard (fitted kitchen) kind of like a skirting board, so its difficult to look underneath. Edit: Managed to at least pull the skirting board underneath out a bit so I can look through - it appears the washing machine is sat on a grey plastic thing - though that might actually be the washing machine itself.

The washing machine conked out during a wash cycle so the washing machine was full of standing water which I have now managed to drain out via a front drainage pipe  Bearing in mind the washing machine conked out during this cycle - I am hoping that whatever electrical mechanism that closes the drainage hole during a normal wash has not kept any water inside somewhere as I could do without having to call a plumber.

Hopefully I have at least saved that part.

.

The hinges being on the machine is standard for integrated. Look at the examples I sent, they have hinges already attached to the machine. My query more was whether you're lucky and the hinges align with the holes from the previous hinges on the door. Not really that big an issue if not though, simply rescrew at a new location on the door. I don't think the integrated door would be a blocker for you at all.

As for the "skirting", that is the plinth. The long piece that runs along the bottom of a fitted kitchen and sit inset from the cabinets is called the plinth (or sometimes a "toe kick", it allows you to stand a little closer to the work surface as your toes can go under the cabinet overhang). 

You're going to have to get the broken machine out anyway, so that should give you an indication of how the plinth attaches. You'll probably have to remove the plinth. Often they are attached like this:



If this is the mechanism for attachment it should be fairly simple to pop off. (Mine fall off of their own accord too regularly!) A gentle tug should tell you if they're attached with these plastic clips. 

It not, well you are probably still going to have to remove the plinth to get the integrated machine out so I guess you'll have to find a way to remove it without causing too much damage.