Is this beyond repair? Advise please

nekr0mantik

Hi

So I opened my door without unchaining and now have a crack down the architrave. 
It's about 30 inches long but widest part is in middle as shown in picture.
Is this repairable and will it look good or need replacing?
thanks 

Bendy_House

To repair it properly, you ideally want some PVA adhesive squished right in there, and then for the two sides of the split to be screwed up tightly together. Excess PVA squeezed out should be wiped away with a damp cloth and - when all is dry - any reaming crack filled with caulk or flexible filler, ready for repaint.

To screw the two sides together, imagine the screws that currently hold that bracket in place - if you fit longer screws in there, they should span the crack and bite well into the LH side for at least an inch. Done up slowly, then should hopefully pull the crack closed (and, of course, you have added PVA in there too).

Fitting screws elsewhere - above and below that crack - will be a bit more involved as you'll have to drill 'clearance' and 'pilot' holes for them, glue and screw the job, fill the crack, and then also fill over the screw heads to hide them. Are you DIYish?

I'd say that this needs doing properly, as you've demonstrated that your current security chain setup isn't all that strong.

If you try and push the two sides together, is there any movement?

Something to be aware of: when you screw in a screw with the intention of pulling two objects tightly together, the screws must pass through the FIRST object WITHOUT 'biting' too much - this needs a 'clearance' hole. The screw will then cross that gap, and properly screw in to the next piece; this second piece will need a 'pilot' hole at most.

So, if you use a 5mm screw (ie, the outside diameter of the thread is 5mm), then you ideally need to drill a 4 or 5mm hole in the first part, so the screw goes through relatively easily - is 'snug' but not 'stuck' in that first part - crosses the gap, and then really starts to bite into the second part. Drilling a 5mm screw into solid wood might be hard going, so it's worth drilling a 'pilot' hole in that second part, at least to start it off. A 'pilot' hole is designed to allow a screw to go in to hard wood without the risk of splitting it, or making the job just too hard to do (screws can even snap). If you hold a screw up before you, you will see the thread spirals around a central shaft - the pilot hole should be fractionally smaller than that shaft's diameter.

Sounds complicated, but it'll make sense when you do it.

Finally...you should 'countersink' the top of the hole to allow the screw's 'head' to end up slightly below the finished surface. This will then allow you to fill over it, smooth it down, and repaint.

(it's strange that the join between that frame and the wall hasn't cracked. It looks - weirdly - as tho' the frame section on the left is the one that's moved away, but surely that can't be the case? I'm confused...)

nekr0mantik

Yeah if you press it then it slightly closes the gap. 

I got no idea if that's strange or not haha

I sent pic to two different companies for quotation and both said it's too damaged for them to fix which worried me. I can't do myself as I'm useless with DIY. 

danrv

Yes, ideally screws to pull together and strengthen but PVA glue is strong stuff.
Maybe get some in there with the aid of a thin spreader or piece of cardboard. Then see if it’s possible to wedge a couple of lengths of wood across between the frame uprights to apply pressure while drying.

theoretica

Is that wood?  Or plastic?  Plastic, I don't have as much experience with, but wood a good handyman decorator could deal with, just be sure to explain both function and cosmetics are important to you, and expect for the entire surround to need repainting if you want to avoid a visible paint difference.

nekr0mantik

theoretica said:

Is that wood?  Or plastic?  Plastic, I don't have as much experience with, but wood a good handyman decorator could deal with, just be sure to explain both function and cosmetics are important to you, and expect for the entire surround to need repainting if you want to avoid a visible paint difference.

Not 100% but think it's wood as the skirting is wooden but walls are plasterboard. 
Why did two companies say they cant fix if it's doable. The paint colour is still available as it's 5 year old only so finding same shade won't be issue.

Bendy_House

theoretica said:

Is that wood?  Or plastic? 

Lawdie, I never considered it could be plastic! If it is, then no amount of fixing will sort that, and your security chain just isn't, Nekr, and never will be; plastic just won't be strong enough, full stop.

But, I suspect it is wood, although such a long, neat split is unusual.

I'd suggest a Handypeep. I can imagine that 'professional' joiners wouldn't entertain such a repair, as it isn't a 'proper job'. An experienced Handyperson should, tho', be able to repair this to better than original strength. If it's wood, and if the gap can be closed up 80+%, and if you first get PVA right in there, and if you fire in at least 5 screws, then it will be stronger than original

theoretica

As Bendy says - it isn't really a 'company' job - it is a competent person doing a little bit of this and a little bit of that.  And if you are a bit fussy, paint fresh out of a can is very unlikely to look the same as some that has been on the wall for 5 years - even pure white!

diystarter7

Hi

A simple fix: Prise it off in one piece if poss and use Gun Grip stuff and drill in a few screws to close it tight. It's be as good as new but use plenty of grip fill and clean the seepage and scrive in tight by drilling pilot hole and long screw but make sure it does not hit the brick/cement on the other side.

We keep Grip Fill very handy there is the usual one that smells a lot and we tried a low oduor   one that to my surprise worked as well

This is the one we use as it works as well as those costing a lot more and have used the less smelly one - quick-drying - read instuctions


https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripfill-adhesive-350ml/10261?tc=KC7&ds_kid=92700048793315993&ds_rl=1249416&gclid=CjwKCAiA68ebBhB-EiwALVC-Nv_6-S8dVgZsxItidws_Lw5LgzwKjF7Xa0gBUcw04c0sDq6S9vvQ-RoCt3sQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



Thanks

diystarter7

diystarter7 said:

Hi

A simple fix: Prise it off in one piece if poss and use Gun Grip stuff and drill in a few screws to close it tight. It's be as good as new but use plenty of grip fill and clean the seepage and scrive in tight by drilling pilot hole and long screw but make sure it does not hit the brick/cement on the other side.

We keep Grip Fill very handy there is the usual one that smells a lot and we tried a low oduor   one that to my surprise worked as well

This is the one we use as it works as well as those costing a lot more and have used the less smelly one - quick-drying - read instuctions


https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripfill-adhesive-350ml/10261?tc=KC7&ds_kid=92700048793315993&ds_rl=1249416&gclid=CjwKCAiA68ebBhB-EiwALVC-Nv_6-S8dVgZsxItidws_Lw5LgzwKjF7Xa0gBUcw04c0sDq6S9vvQ-RoCt3sQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



Thanks

OR  - if diffuct to split - fill in with gripfill and screw in tight. Smooth it off before it dries as lot easier then undercoating and paint.

diystarter7

on closer look -  it looks lick plastic so Grip Fill won't do the business.