Repairing rotten Garage Tongue & Grove timber cladding, Any tips to make my life easy..?

sujsuj

Finally much awaited garage roof repair work is in progress now. Bought replacement  Tongue & Grove timber cladding from B&Q for roof 
Roof timber rotten towards last 1 meter for 5/6 timbers, otherwise timber looks good. Removal of old felt was difficult as there was 4 layers one over the other.
That job is done last week. Unfortunately current weather is not helping me.So I had to make some temporary arrangements on the roof now.

Timber looks like in Image -1 below from inside. My plan is rather than replace 3M long timber I will be replacing only rotten sections, Ie last 0.5m or 1meter in most cases. Plan is to cut timber exactly near roof cross wood  (as you can see below) and nail it with new timber piece. Hope this is workable solution as my long term plan is to replace roof with metal roofing. But may be in another 2-3 years later.

Challenges I have...
1. These are Tongue & Grove locked timbers, so removing them will be difficult. Also replacing sections with new pieces more difficult as well.  t Any tips..? My plan was to guide them from one end  and push to make sure T&G are intact. Any suggestions..?

2. Also not sire whats best tool to remove the rotten timber sections from roof in a way that remaining part of that cladding can be kept there intact..? Thought about using angle grinder. Is there a better option..?

3, Any opinion to do this repair in a better  and cost effective way..? Thanks

Section62

sujsuj said:

3, Any opinion to do this repair in a better  and cost effective way..? Thanks

Yes, the same as when you've asked the question previously.  The best and most cost effective way of repairing your garage roof is to use plastic coated steel sheeting, and do it now rather than waiting 2 to 3 years.  The condition of the existing roof makes effective repair difficult, and money spent on materials will be wasted if you re-roof in a couple of years.

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/6360231/epdm-roofing-or-bitumen-felt-for-a-timber-garage/p1

sujsuj

This work is in full swing despite bad weather. Can't get a decent weather prediction anywhere!

I put part of underlay already. Already started repairing cladding sections. So far all work gone well despite weather not helping me! See photos 

I have these queries please help..

1. As you can see I placed underlay with writing up, Is this  the correct way to put underlay..?

2. Due to bad weather underlay, timer and even felt is wet now, should I wait until these completely dry before laying felt on underlay ?? Means I need to wait for a sunny day before putting felt over this underlay and also underlay over repaired wet timber.

or this may not have much impact..?

Bendy_House

Nice job, Suj.

I agree with S62, but it's a fait accompli.

Had to look that stuff up. It's a non-breathable felt, so presumably any wet trapped underneath will take an age to dry. Having said that, it 'should' do so in time as the sun warms the roof and the damp timber steadily dries from below. In any event, it'll take years before it rots again, and by then you'll hopefully have your metal roof

Right way up? I presume it is, as manufacturers love to advertise, but of course it would ultimately be covered by tiles or slates in its normal role. So, looks fine, provided you don't mind advertising!

Says it's UV resistant and tough - it 'should' be ok for that job. I guess.

Perhaps worth a smear of StixAll along the overlap edges to stop the wind catching it?

It's not a shed felt, tho' - why did you choose it over mineral felt?

Eldi_Dos

Only ever felted one garage roof and it was many moons ago but was told to start from gutter position  and work towards apex then overlaps drain over rather than trap.Does this product have different instructions?

Bendy_House

SS seems to have got the overlaps the correct way

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

Nice job, Suj.

I agree with S62, but it's a fait accompli.

Had to look that stuff up. It's a non-breathable felt, so presumably any wet trapped underneath will take an age to dry. Having said that, it 'should' do so in time as the sun warms the roof and the damp timber steadily dries from below. In any event, it'll take years before it rots again, and by then you'll hopefully have your metal roof

Right way up? I presume it is, as manufacturers love to advertise, but of course it would ultimately be covered by tiles or slates in its normal role. So, looks fine, provided you don't mind advertising!

Says it's UV resistant and tough - it 'should' be ok for that job. I guess.

Perhaps worth a smear of StixAll along the overlap edges to stop the wind catching it?

It's not a shed felt, tho' - why did you choose it over mineral felt?

Thanks.
Weather is not great this week, also strong wind. I am in a bit of trouble with leaky roof! should have done in last summer!

Having done cladding work so far spending close to £500 for cladding, felt, underlay etc..looks like I made wrong choice 
Metal roof should have been the right choice as there was no need of cladding in the top. So I got a stable block in terrible state surely I will go for metal roofing for that. I am also thinking of side wall with metal as well instead of wooden cladding..As we see in Industrial estates. Not sure if I need planning permission to convert side wall as well to metal ..?

One question on metal roofing if that strong enough for people to stand on the top while bolting etc or its too flimsy..?

sujsuj

Eldi_Dos said:

Only ever felted one garage roof and it was many moons ago but was told to start from gutter position  and work towards apex then overlaps drain over rather than trap.Does this product have different instructions?

Yes should have started from bottom as similar to laying roofing felt. But in my case I was doing top half first as wooden cladding was Ok at the top half and only towards bottom half its rotten. But I made sure to put underlay in the right way by placing second row below first to ensure water pours down to gutter!

Section62

sujsuj said:

Metal roof should have been the right choice as there was no need of cladding in the top. So I got a stable block in terrible state surely I will go for metal roofing for that. I am also thinking of side wall with metal as well instead of wooden cladding..As we see in Industrial estates. Not sure if I need planning permission to convert side wall as well to metal ..?

So long as you aren't in a conservation area and neither you nor the neighbour's properties are listed, then it is very unlikely you'd need planning consent to change the roof or walls to plastic coated steel.

Personally I wouldn't change the walls.  They look better as weatherboard, ideally painted with barn paint.  The walls don't get so much sun and rain as the roof, hence weatherboard gives a long life in comparison to felt on a roof.

sujsuj said:

One question on metal roofing if that strong enough for people to stand on the top while bolting etc or its too flimsy..?

If you are fixing it to the roof which is already boarded then you have nothing to worry about - although you should minimise the amount of walking around you do to mimimise the amount of debris which might pierce the plastic coating.  For the same reason, if you drill the steel or use self-drilling fixings it is best to sweep/vacuum up the shards as you go - the less sharp debris you leave on the roof, the less risk of damage to the coating and future corrosion spots.

In your situation I would probably use 2x2 counterbattens to fix the steel to, as that would give a stronger fixing point.  If so, then so long as they are spaced at about 600mm or less the sheeting will be more than strong enough to support an average adult.  Alternatively, ask the manufacturer for advice - typically this kind of steel is used with purlin spacings of 1.2m (or much greater), although with those spacings much greater care is needed to avoid damage.

If you plan to remove the whole of the existing roof then you'll need to plan a method of preventing condensation on the underside of the steel sheets.

sujsuj

Though I started roof work at the wrong time (worst rain in last 3-4 weeks!)I managed to complete roof, but finishing work to be done

• Replaced all rotten cladding with T &G timber from B&Q 
• Replaced many supporting wood as well from Wickes
• Used IKO Super felt (£45/piece) from Wickes
• Stanly stapler Gun was the most helpful tool
• Used IKO Pro felt adhesive from Homebase for first part (half price @ 17 for 5L)
• Also used  Bostik Feltfix Bituminous Roof Felt Adhesive from Screwfix (£25 )
• Bostik was more water like compared to IKO, or may be because IKO I left in garage for long?
• Originally planned only one side replacement with felt but end up doing both sides now, looks very clean
• Used  Damp-Proof Membrane Black 1200ga 25 x 4m (£45) from Screw-fix on one side (was very slippery to do)
• Other side used Sark-IT Non breathable membrane  from Tool station (£45)
So far so good, need to finish edges and also need fit gutter back. Feels happy, see photos of unfinished roof
• 

Mutton_Geoff

B&Q, Wickes, Screwfix etc. You may get better prices by opening a trade account with a proper timber merchant. Although I buy stuff from the same stores as you, I found their timber and sheet materials poor quality (except Wickes plasterboard since I think they are owned by Knauf?)