MDF Architrave – Ovals or Panel Pins?

paperclap
paperclap Posts: 769 Forumite
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Hi all,

I'd planned on using 40mm ovals for our MDF architrave. But just out of curiosity, I've tried a small offcut into the lining... and my God, it is a bast*rd to get those ovals into the MDF. Not sure if I'm not giving it enough welly, or that MDF is just so dense, ovals aren't the right thing for the job.

So, perhaps 40mm panel panels are better? Thinner, hammer in easier, bla bla. Granted, they also probably pull out easier (who's going to be pulling on it anyway?!). Plus I'd thought to use some grab adhesive with it too anyway.

Thoughts?
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Comments

  • flashg67
    flashg67 Posts: 4,116 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    personally, as you've already noted, the load wont be great - panel pins and adhesive should more than be enough IMO
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
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    Yup, it's solid stuff :-)
    I use panel pins, and they seem to work well, for just the reason you say. Along with solvent-free adhesive (doesn't skin, excess can be wiped away using a damp cloth, etc.)
    I don't drive the pins home, but withdraw them after the adhesive has set. Just my own personal choice, and it saves having to punch them below the surface, or trying to cover them with a teeny skim of filler. Also, the heads do sometimes rust, especially if using water-based paints, and that can be quite annoying.
  • paperclap
    paperclap Posts: 769 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Yup, it's solid stuff :-)
    I use panel pins, and they seem to work well, for just the reason you say. Along with solvent-free adhesive (doesn't skin, excess can be wiped away using a damp cloth, etc.)
    I don't drive the pins home, but withdraw them after the adhesive has set. Just my own personal choice, and it saves having to punch them below the surface, or trying to cover them with a teeny skim of filler. Also, the heads do sometimes rust, especially if using water-based paints, and that can be quite annoying.
    If you pull the pins out after the adhesive has set, don't you have to fill the holes anyway?  :smile:

    That's an interesting point, regarding the water-based paint. Funny too really, as it was literally just yesterday I was debating as to whether I should use water-based or oil-based satinwood for the doors, architraves and skirting – ultimately landed on oil-based, as apparently water-based paints are horrible to achieve a good finish on!
  • Mutton_Geoff
    Mutton_Geoff Posts: 3,986 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    If you're doing more than one room, you'll find a nail gun handy. People like Dewalt do one that doesn't need gas (if you already have their battery even better).
    Signature on holiday for two weeks
  • Back in the old days before nail guns I hated oval nails with a passion, I was always hitting to hard and bending them over.
     Oval nails are suited for timber based mouldings where there is a chance of splitting.
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 10 October 2022 at 9:51PM
    paperclap said:
    Yup, it's solid stuff :-)
    I use panel pins, and they seem to work well, for just the reason you say. Along with solvent-free adhesive (doesn't skin, excess can be wiped away using a damp cloth, etc.)
    I don't drive the pins home, but withdraw them after the adhesive has set. Just my own personal choice, and it saves having to punch them below the surface, or trying to cover them with a teeny skim of filler. Also, the heads do sometimes rust, especially if using water-based paints, and that can be quite annoying.
    If you pull the pins out after the adhesive has set, don't you have to fill the holes anyway?  :smile:

    That's an interesting point, regarding the water-based paint. Funny too really, as it was literally just yesterday I was debating as to whether I should use water-based or oil-based satinwood for the doors, architraves and skirting – ultimately landed on oil-based, as apparently water-based paints are horrible to achieve a good finish on!
    Ha-ha, yes. But it's the difference between just filling a hole, and first having to sink the pin below surface level. Yup, that's all :-)
    Worth getting a pin-punch, 'cos they are awkward to do otherwise.

  • paperclap
    paperclap Posts: 769 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Don’t really fancy spending a few hundred on a nail gun! :)

    So what do y’all think then? Safe (if not better) to go with panel pins?
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
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    edited 11 October 2022 at 6:46AM
    I think you'll find they'll go in a lot easier.

    2mm-ish dia?

    And a pin-punch :-)
  • paperclap
    paperclap Posts: 769 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 11 October 2022 at 9:06AM
    I think you'll find they'll go in a lot easier.

    2mm-ish dia?

    And a pin-punch :-)
    Yup, got me a punch set :)

    A little smaller actually. The panel pins I’ve got are 1.6mm diameter

    Or, lost head nails? Are they perhaps the best middle ground? Never used lost heads before. So many nails!
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    I think you'll want to get the heads nicely under the surface, so that enough filler covers it to be safely sandabubble.
    It's when the head is too close to the surface - and sometimes even gets sanded - that rusty issues occur.
    Man, it's annoying...
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