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Wood burning stove 'wash' and stuff...
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Effician said:About 33kg weight difference between wood & gas stove so will be interesting to see exactly how much you need to add.1
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I use a multi stove villager for wood burning. i leave the ash pan filled with heat bricks, and keep that void filled . I only use the top vents for air flow and that seems to cause a slow wood burn , which is what I am after. I have a couple of heat fans on top of the burner and I am toasty !1
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Yes wood stove is heavier approx 94kg for wood stove & 61kg for the gas one from the specs i've seen, i'd also speculate it could lose some more weight from the gas stove once the gas specific parts are removed.To do a proper conversion if at all possible , i could see it getting expensive quickly.2
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Blimey - 30+kg more?! That's a lot! 90+kg is just a lot in any event - that's bludy heavy - for what is a smallish stove, so I wonder if there are different sizes involved there too?Anyhoo, the things I am reasonably confident about are that the casing and flue outlet - the 'main' bits - are very similar if not identical. As a gas stove, it was designed to become 'hot', and release ~4+kW to the room. So, on that basis alone, I am pretty confident that it'll 'work' as a log-burner too - at it most perfunctory, it ain't going to be worse than my open fire
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I'll keep investigating the operational methods of both types, so many thanks for all the links and info, Effi et al.I am not too concerned about doing a 'proper' conversion - ie getting it up to par with their off-the-shelf log burner.1 -
Bendy_House said:I am pretty confident that it'll 'work' as a log-burner too - as it most perfunctory, it ain't going to be worse than my open fire
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I am not too concerned about doing a 'proper' conversion - ie getting it up to par with their off-the-shelf log burner.2 -
...if the gas to wood conversion fails, you could always raid the kitchen...
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Apodemus said:...if the gas to wood conversion fails, you could always raid the kitchen...
I just love it that there are nutty folk who do such a thing. Wonderful :-)
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Bendy_House said:Blimey - 30+kg more?! That's a lot! 90+kg is just a lot in any event - that's bludy heavy - for what is a smallish stove, so I wonder if there are different sizes involved there too?Anyhoo, the things I am reasonably confident about are that the casing and flue outlet - the 'main' bits - are very similar if not identical. As a gas stove, it was designed to become 'hot', and release ~4+kW to the room. So, on that basis alone, I am pretty confident that it'll 'work' as a log-burner too - at it most perfunctory, it ain't going to be worse than my open fire
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I'll keep investigating the operational methods of both types, so many thanks for all the links and info, Effi et al.I am not too concerned about doing a 'proper' conversion - ie getting it up to par with their off-the-shelf log burner.
If you're going full on Heath Robinson then maybe worth trying to incorporate a direct air supply, probably the best feature of our current stove.
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Effician said:Bendy_House said:Blimey - 30+kg more?! That's a lot! 90+kg is just a lot in any event - that's bludy heavy - for what is a smallish stove, so I wonder if there are different sizes involved there too?Anyhoo, the things I am reasonably confident about are that the casing and flue outlet - the 'main' bits - are very similar if not identical. As a gas stove, it was designed to become 'hot', and release ~4+kW to the room. So, on that basis alone, I am pretty confident that it'll 'work' as a log-burner too - at it most perfunctory, it ain't going to be worse than my open fire
.
I'll keep investigating the operational methods of both types, so many thanks for all the links and info, Effi et al.I am not too concerned about doing a 'proper' conversion - ie getting it up to par with their off-the-shelf log burner.
If you're going full on Heath Robinson then maybe worth trying to incorporate a direct air supply, probably the best feature of our current stove.I have a cunning plan for a 'wash' or secondary supply at the rear, just below flue height. That could well be all it needs to maintain the flame, and hopefully pretty efficiently.I won't know what's practical until I collect it this weekend, tho'.0 -
I apologise if this has been resolved/answered in the thread (I haven't read them all), but I have a Yeoman Exmoor stove (bought from new in late 90's), so thought I'd chip in
Unless it was done just before you bought it, you need to change the ropes in the door and window for maximum efficiently and to give you best results.
Use the rope recommended by Yeoman and the proper glue. Clean the channels in the door really well to remove all rope before gluing it in. Dont use fire the same day as fitting ropes.
DO NOT over tighten the screws in the window glass, or you break the glass, a good firm tighten with fingers is enough.
You can have all vents open to get it started, but then the top is for wood , lower /underneath for coal.
Close door once you've gotten it burning, but you can leave the door slightly ajar to get a good draw through the fire when starting it.
The magnetic thermometer that sticks on the outside is useful and cheap enough- it will help you check how the fire is responding. Never over fill it above air holes.
Make sure your flue is sealed well and never burn damp logs , ever.
Clean the chimney or flue at least once a year maybe more if you use it a lot.
Good luck,I am sure you'll love it. Treat it well, clean it and use stove black paint, clean window with none abrasive cloth or baby wipe.1
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