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Hot water cylinder - airing cupboard layout

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  • Lorian
    Lorian Posts: 6,246 Forumite
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    Gas supply pipes have to be sleeved through walls. Not sure what else it might be. You don't want your flow and return pipes running outside, not with the price of gas ..
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
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    edited 2 October 2022 at 7:47AM
    I wonder if the 'external lagging' is to do with the condensate pipe, which mustn't be allowed to freeze or your boiler will come to a halt.

    Do you know if the cond pipe is plumbed internally into a waste pipe, or going out through the wall, Slinky?
  • Green_hopeful
    Green_hopeful Posts: 1,165 Forumite
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    We have a hanging rail in our airing cupboard. Great for finishing off washing after a dry on the line. I think it’s a common thing in Scandinavia. Pop your washing on hangers and ready for the wardrobe (unless you are old school and iron). I sometimes put the washing on the line already on the hangers if I think they will need to come in because of the weather ready for the cupboard. 
  • Slinky
    Slinky Posts: 11,015 Forumite
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    Slinky said:


    Talking of lagging, I seem to recall reading something somewhere about a change in regs this year regarding pipes coming through external walls needing extra insulation or something, does anybody recognise what I'm talking about as I've no idea where the source of the info came from, other than it'll be something I picked up from the font of all knowledge, which is MSE.
    Sorry all I think I've been leading you up a blind alley, the regs I read about was pipework relating to things like waste pipes from kitchen sinks where they exit through walls to outside.
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  • Slinky
    Slinky Posts: 11,015 Forumite
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    edited 2 October 2022 at 12:20PM


    Do you know if the cond pipe is plumbed internally into a waste pipe, or going out through the wall, Slinky?

    Don't know, I'll ask. I don't think it can be plumbed to the internal waste as that would involve picking going through to the adjoining bathroom which he hasn't wrecked started yet.

    If it's through the wall, freezing is something we need to consider as it's on a north facing wall
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  • Slinky
    Slinky Posts: 11,015 Forumite
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    edited 2 October 2022 at 12:24PM
    We have a hanging rail in our airing cupboard. Great for finishing off washing after a dry on the line. I think it’s a common thing in Scandinavia. Pop your washing on hangers and ready for the wardrobe (unless you are old school and iron). I sometimes put the washing on the line already on the hangers if I think they will need to come in because of the weather ready for the cupboard. 

    If you look on the photo with the boiler cupboard, this was previously a small wardrobe and still has a hanging rail - that piece of copper piping which isn't actually part of the pumbing.  I got him to put the expansion tank low down at the level of the magnaclean clutter, so that we can still use the hanging rail to air off damp things coming in from the washing line.
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  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
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    Slinky said:


    Do you know if the cond pipe is plumbed internally into a waste pipe, or going out through the wall, Slinky?

    Don't know, I'll ask. I don't think it can be plumbed to the internal waste as that would involve picking going through to the adjoining bathroom which he hasn't wrecked started yet.

    If it's through the wall, freezing is something we need to consider as it's on a north facing wall

    Almost certainly they will lag it accordingly.
  • Rodders53
    Rodders53 Posts: 2,663 Forumite
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    Slinky said:
    There's absolutely no heat coming off the tank!
    Gledhill would beg to differ:  their brochure has the spec for the tanks.  They range from 32 W loss (90 litre cylinder ) to 62 W for the 210 litre single immersion versions.
    https://www.gledhill.net/products/unvented-cylinders/stainlesslite-pro/

    They are lower than the equivalent numbers for my 15-year old unvented Oso tank, though.

    I'd fit insulation while access to the pipework is easy...  Simple enough to remove a little if more heat is needed (it won't be in all probability).
  • Slinky
    Slinky Posts: 11,015 Forumite
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    We have the 210. At the moment we are heating via the immersion so are working out the minimum time to heat for the water we use. Can't wait for the gas to be connected up. 

    There may be some heat coming off but it's not really noticeable in our unheated house and certainly much less than what was a 40 year old tank
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  • ComicGeek
    ComicGeek Posts: 1,653 Forumite
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    Slinky said:
    We have the 210. At the moment we are heating via the immersion so are working out the minimum time to heat for the water we use. Can't wait for the gas to be connected up. 

    There may be some heat coming off but it's not really noticeable in our unheated house and certainly much less than what was a 40 year old tank
    It's the pipework from the boiler to the cylinder that emits the noticeable heat, rather than from the cylinder itself. If you're only running the immersion then what you experience now isn't the real situation. 

    I've got virtually the same cylinder (just the slimline version) as you. I've lagged every bit of pipework, only the valves, pump and gaps between lagging strips are uncovered.

    Still noticeably warm when I open the cupboard door, so I really don't think that you have to worry about it not being enough. Lag everything now and before you put the shelves in, much easier!


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