Cable size help for induction hob

longwalks1

I’m going to be pulling in a new cable from the consumer unit to the kitchen for a new induction hob. I’m pulling all cables in to keep costs down as some of the routes are very time consuming.  How can I find out what size cable is required please, as 2 local electricians have told me different things, one says 6mm, another told me 10mm.  I just want to be certain. 

The hob is rated at 42A, and 8600w.  Is there a chart anywhere I can refer to online?

flashg67

This might help - https://www.elandcables.com/cable-calculator
I know that my induction range oven is rated at a similar wattage to yours. I was buying the stuff and the electrician told me to get a 50a breaker for the consumer unit and 10mm T&E cable (the cable run was short but partially buried in plaster)

400ixl

https://www.elandcables.com/cable-calculator is one example.

Comes out with either 6mm or 10mm.

IIRC 6mm has a maximum load of 41-44A which means you would be at the top end of 6mm. 10mm is around 57-61A so has much better headroom.

This is assuming single phase.

dil1976

longwalks1 said:

I’m going to be pulling in a new cable from the consumer unit to the kitchen for a new induction hob. I’m pulling all cables in to keep costs down as some of the routes are very time consuming.  How can I find out what size cable is required please, as 2 local electricians have told me different things, one says 6mm, another told me 10mm.  I just want to be certain. 

The hob is rated at 42A, and 8600w.  Is there a chart anywhere I can refer to online?

Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and pay for professional advice, unless of course you are saving for the funeral of someone who may be killed by your negligence?

longwalks1

Thank you both, and is the 8600w load only if you had all 4 rings on together?   I’d obviously prefer to use 6mm as I’d imagine 10mm is an absolute pig to route along and around ceiling joists and through brick sections of wall 

I just want to double check as I get conflicting advice from both electricians.  One told me that every kitchen appliance that has a heat source (dishwasher, washing machine, tumble dryer) had to be on their own breaker in the consumer unit, which would mean adding a 2nd smaller CU beside my current one to gain 3 breaker spaces.  The other guy, told me that wasn’t the case

very frustrating, hence me here asking 

macman

You haven't stated the length of the run, or what it's run in?

longwalks1

Sorry macman I should of said, run is approx 15m long and a combination of ceiling voids, through 2 x 9” thick brick walls and down a wall in some trunking behind a wall cabinet 

onomatopoeia99

longwalks1 said:

I just want to double check as I get conflicting advice from both electricians.  One told me that every kitchen appliance that has a heat source (dishwasher, washing machine, tumble dryer) had to be on their own breaker in the consumer unit, which would mean adding a 2nd smaller CU beside my current one to gain 3 breaker spaces.  

Never heard that one before, not for appliances that plug into a 13A socket.  They've also forgotten the kettle, which has a heat source and probably consumes more current while working than any out of the dishwasher, washing machine or tumble.  No-one will convince me that a kettle needs its own circuit back to the consumer unit.

FreeBear

longwalks1 said: I’d obviously prefer to use 6mm as I’d imagine 10mm is an absolute pig to route along and around ceiling joists and through brick sections of wall

There isn't much in it in terms of routing 6mm² or 10mm² cable. The fun comes when trying to wire up the isolation switch and you didn't use a deep enough back box.

fenwick458

longwalks1 said:

I just want to double check as I get conflicting advice from both electricians.  One told me that every kitchen appliance that has a heat source (dishwasher, washing machine, tumble dryer) had to be on their own breaker in the consumer unit, which would mean adding a 2nd smaller CU beside my current one to gain 3 breaker spaces.  The other guy, told me that wasn’t the case

Utter rubbish. 

for the hob, when you apply diversity you can use a 6mm no problem. 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.5.2.htm

Rdwill

From a layman,

why not put in the bigger cable just in case you want to upgrade the hob in the future?