Lining Garage for Soundproofing on a Budget

Maxson

I have a single detached garage, approx 3m x 5m inside, prefab concrete panels with a tiled apex roof and I use it as a gym and when I have music on in there it lets too much sound out. It's also cold and damp in there and could do with looking nicer inside. I'm building a studwall out of 3x2 to block off the up& over door. I'm after advice on effective sound absorbing materials to board that out with that don't need a plasterer to finish off.

FaceHead

Timber frame, acoustic rockwool, plasterboards. 

For a garage, bare plasterboards may be an acceptable finish. Or or, having used tapered edge boards, you can tape, fill the tapers with jointing compound and paint. With a nice wide filling knife, it's not a skilled job like plastering - and enthusiastic DIYer can do it. 

A lot of new build houses are this, and people can't tell the difference to a skim finish. 

The rockwool comes in 50mm and 100mm. So either a 2" or 4" fram, depending on the level of insulation you want and the space you are prepared to lose. Gut feel is the 50mm stuff: https://www.insulationsuperstore.co.uk/product/rockwool-rwa45-acoustic-insulation-slab-50mm-6-48m2-pack.html

Edit: and you might as well use acoustic plasterboards: https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/specialist-plasterboard/knauf-sound-panel-tapered-edge-acoustic-gypsum-plasterboard-2400mm-x-1200mm-x-12-5mm/p/300159

FreeBear

Neighbour soundproofed his garage to use as a band practice room come recording studio. With the volume wound up to 11, I can hear it from my kitchen.

The noise level is not intrusive, and mainly afternoon, early evening and doesn't bother me. Without the soundproofing, I suspect it would be a lot worse.

Maxson

FaceHead said:

Timber frame, acoustic rockwool, plasterboards. 

For a garage, bare plasterboards may be an acceptable finish. Or or, having used tapered edge boards, you can tape, fill the tapers with jointing compound and paint. With a nice wide filling knife, it's not a skilled job like plastering - and enthusiastic DIYer can do it. 

A lot of new build houses are this, and people can't tell the difference to a skim finish. 

The rockwool comes in 50mm and 100mm. So either a 2" or 4" fram, depending on the level of insulation you want and the space you are prepared to lose. Gut feel is the 50mm stuff: https://www.insulationsuperstore.co.uk/product/rockwool-rwa45-acoustic-insulation-slab-50mm-6-48m2-pack.html

Edit: and you might as well use acoustic plasterboards: https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/specialist-plasterboard/knauf-sound-panel-tapered-edge-acoustic-gypsum-plasterboard-2400mm-x-1200mm-x-12-5mm/p/300159

Thanks for the advice!

 I was put off by the idea of having to plaster over the boards as I tried using DIY plaster years ago and it didn't end up very smooth. I had no idea if you can get away with just painting bare plasterboard. I did find some well priced acoustic plasterboard so two layers of that on my frame should be pretty good. Cheaper than 25mm fibreboard and maybe better.

https://www.selcobw.com/siniat-db-board-tapered-edge-2400-x-1200-x-12-5mm

I've already started framing with some 3x2 (63x38mm) C16 and yes insulation between but maybe the recycled plastic type as it seemed cheaper when I was doing my loft and non itchy.

Maxson

FreeBear said:

Neighbour soundproofed his garage to use as a band practice room come recording studio. With the volume wound up to 11, I can hear it from my kitchen.

The noise level is not intrusive, and mainly afternoon, early evening and doesn't bother me. Without the soundproofing, I suspect it would be a lot worse.

Do you know what materials they used? I'm hoping to go pretty loud like a commercial gym. Also if I drop a weight that's pretty loud so ideally I want to block most of that as well. The floor mats I'm putting down should help as well.

Spies

Lots of egg boxes. 

Maxson

Spies said:

Lots of egg boxes. 

That won't do much, as far as I've heard.

FreeBear

Maxson said:

FreeBear said:

Neighbour soundproofed his garage to use as a band practice room come recording studio. With the volume wound up to 11, I can hear it from my kitchen.

The noise level is not intrusive, and mainly afternoon, early evening and doesn't bother me. Without the soundproofing, I suspect it would be a lot worse.

Do you know what materials they used? I'm hoping to go pretty loud like a commercial gym. Also if I drop a weight that's pretty loud so ideally I want to block most of that as well. The floor mats I'm putting down should help as well.

To be honest, I couldn't tell you. From memory, I *think* 3x2 studwork was put up against the wall and the space filled with an acoustic rockwool batt. Plasterboard attached, and then plastered. It has cut the amount of noise that I can hear, but I wouldn't like to quantify it. What little I do hear is nether loud nor intrusive.

Apodemus

Perhaps too late to suggest this, but have you sealed the bottom edge of the door?  Wind-blown rain can get under a garage door, and while this can normally just dry out in the garage, the bottom edge of your framing might get wet. 

Indeed the framing may well be exposed to condensation from the concrete slab and it is quite possible that the slab will become damp under the floor covering, so it might be prudent to put a strip of damp course material under the timber framing.

Maxson

Are these the right things for filling in the tapered edge joints?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Reinforcing-Joint-Tape-For-Plasterboards---50mm-x-150m/p/220215?fix
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Fill-and-Finish-Light---5kg/p/149400?fix&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpeaYBhDXARIsAEzItbF5QikOVCTJjHSN5Gn0EHusMe9IQx9QCvwugU96bhI8mHWw6JOzX_4aAsrQEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

FreeBear

Maxson said: Are these the right things for filling in the tapered edge joints?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Fibreglass-Plasterboard-Repair+Jointing-Tape---90m/p/163566

Leave a gap between each board as you fix it up, typically 3-5mm. Or you can apply a bit of the jointing compound to the edge of the board already fixed up before sliding the next one in to place (gets the jointing compound right in to the gap). Before the compound has dried, run a length of mesh tape along the join, A thin smear of jointing compound over the top applied with a wide spatula or jointing knife will then fill the tapered edge.

If you want a real smooth finish, have a look at wet sponge sanding - Basically, take a damp sponge float, and rub it over the dried compound to smooth it out. No dust compared to dry sanding.