Draught proofing my home. Any advice please?

sparkiemalarkie

Hi we live in a 1930's solid wall house that is very draughty.

The main problem is the under stairs cupboard.
There are big gaps around the pipes that go out through the floor boards and there are also gaps between the boards.
The wind blows through the gap and under the cupboard door to the living room.
What's the best way of stopping the draught without increasing condensation?

Also, we have a lot of air bricks around the house at ground level.
In really cold weather would it be ok to stand a wooden board in front of the bricks to divert most of the wind?

We have ancient aluminium double glazed windows and doors which let wind through....I was planning to solve this problem with thick curtains.
What are your thoughts on shrink film insulation kits for the worst windows/patio doors?

You can probably tell that I'm feeling a bit stressed....

tia

sx

stuart45

The air bricks are probably there to add ventilation for under a timber floor.
If this is the case I wouldn't block them up.

FreeBear

For the cupboard, I'd put some woodfibre underlay down (the stuff sold for laminate) - https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-wood-fibre-underlay-boards-7m-15-pack/7824r - Then finish off with an offcut of lino. Some double sided stcky tape should hold everything in place.

It is worth getting a foam gun (available cheaply from Amazon & ebay), and some cans of expanding foam, not forgetting one can of gun cleaner. A gun will allow you to put down a thin precise bead of foam exactly where needed - Much better than those cans with a nozzle & tube. Go round the house plugging all those nasty draughts around window/door frames, along the skirting where it meets the floorboards. You could even use the stuff to plug gaps between the floorboards. Let it harden fully, and trim back where needed with a scraper or knife. If you get any foam where you don't want it (e.g. on a carpet), resist the temptation to mop it up straight away. Let the foam harden, and it should peel off leaving very little residue behind.

Heat shrink film will certainly reduce draughts on some of the windows. Although I suspect some of the plastic gubbins on the hinges have worn out or broken and the windows are not closing fully onto the rubber seals - Had this with my old windows. Suffice to say, replacement hinges are not available, and the plastic widgets are not replaceable. Thick thermal curtains will also help to cut heat loss through the windows - Tuck them down behind any radiators situated under the windows.

As for the air bricks, don't block them off - They are required to ventilate the void under the floor and keep damp at bay. However, I see no issue putting a board ~200mm away from the wall to deflect the howling gales. You should only need to do this on the side exposed to the prevailing winds.

Faced very similar issues to you with my (late) 1920s semi. Plugged most of the draughts coming up through the floor, and have replaced all the badly fitted aluminium framed DG windows - Found 20-30mm gaps across the top of some of them with just wooden trim on the inside of the reveals keeping the wind out. New windows fitted properly, and slowly insulating walls (including the reveals). Hopefully, no more draughts, and the house should be warmer & cheaper to heat.

FreeBear

How well insulated is your loft ?

Current recommendation is 270-300mm of fibreglass/rockwool insulation. If you are appreciably under this, grab a few rolls of top-up insulation from somewhere like B&Q. It is not difficult to install if you are fit & mobile.

Ben1989

Floor drafts will be coming in under your floor and will then find its way in via skirting boards. So, ensure these are properly sealed either under them or above them (however they're installed). If you really wanted to go in-depth you could lift up the flooring, floor boards and put insulation under your floor between your joists. What you definitely must not do is block your air bricks up. 

Regarding expanding foam, make sure you tape around surrounds etc and areas your don't want it. It will be an absolute pain to clean up without preparation and just going full throttle with a can.

Also regarding airbricks. This will be a number one source for mice and/or rats to get into the house as the weather turns cooler. I suggest you buy some metal mesh that you simply stick to the outside of the airbrick. The mesh will stop rodents but allow air throughput. It will likely slow down those gusts underneath your floor, too. I'm speaking from experience. Get them meshed.

sparkiemalarkie

FreeBear said:

How well insulated is your loft ?

Current recommendation is 270-300mm of fibreglass/rockwool insulation. If you are appreciably under this, grab a few rolls of top-up insulation from somewhere like B&Q. It is not difficult to install if you are fit & mobile.

Thanks loft is fully insulated

Ben1989 said:

Floor drafts will be coming in under your floor and will then find its way in via skirting boards. So, ensure these are properly sealed either under them or above them (however they're installed). If you really wanted to go in-depth you could lift up the flooring, floor boards and put insulation under your floor between your joists. What you definitely must not do is block your air bricks up. 

Regarding expanding foam, make sure you tape around surrounds etc and areas your don't want it. It will be an absolute pain to clean up without preparation and just going full throttle with a can.

Also regarding airbricks. This will be a number one source for mice and/or rats to get into the house as the weather turns cooler. I suggest you buy some metal mesh that you simply stick to the outside of the airbrick. The mesh will stop rodents but allow air throughput. It will likely slow down those gusts underneath your floor, too. I'm speaking from experience. Get them meshed.

Thank you for the tips...I will take a look at the mesh.

sx

Ben1989

sparkiemalarkie said:

Thank you for the tips...I will take a look at the mesh.

sx

You don't need these fancy bordered ones that are like £8 each. Just buy some cheap metallic mesh and cut it to size.

Danny30

FreeBear said:

For the cupboard, I'd put some woodfibre underlay down (the stuff sold for laminate) - https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-wood-fibre-underlay-boards-7m-15-pack/7824r - Then finish off with an offcut of lino. Some double sided stcky tape should hold everything in place.

It is worth getting a foam gun (available cheaply from Amazon & ebay), and some cans of expanding foam, not forgetting one can of gun cleaner. A gun will allow you to put down a thin precise bead of foam exactly where needed - Much better than those cans with a nozzle & tube. Go round the house plugging all those nasty draughts around window/door frames, along the skirting where it meets the floorboards. You could even use the stuff to plug gaps between the floorboards. Let it harden fully, and trim back where needed with a scraper or knife. If you get any foam where you don't want it (e.g. on a carpet), resist the temptation to mop it up straight away. Let the foam harden, and it should peel off leaving very little residue behind.

Heat shrink film will certainly reduce draughts on some of the windows. Although I suspect some of the plastic gubbins on the hinges have worn out or broken and the windows are not closing fully onto the rubber seals - Had this with my old windows. Suffice to say, replacement hinges are not available, and the plastic widgets are not replaceable. Thick thermal curtains will also help to cut heat loss through the windows - Tuck them down behind any radiators situated under the windows.

As for the air bricks, don't block them off - They are required to ventilate the void under the floor and keep damp at bay. However, I see no issue putting a board ~200mm away from the wall to deflect the howling gales. You should only need to do this on the side exposed to the prevailing winds.

Faced very similar issues to you with my (late) 1920s semi. Plugged most of the draughts coming up through the floor, and have replaced all the badly fitted aluminium framed DG windows - Found 20-30mm gaps across the top of some of them with just wooden trim on the inside of the reveals keeping the wind out. New windows fitted properly, and slowly insulating walls (including the reveals). Hopefully, no more draughts, and the house should be warmer & cheaper to heat.

Is expanding foam good for sealing gaps between skirting and flooring? Thought it wouldn't be flexible enough to cope with movement of flooring?

sparkiemalarkie

FreeBear

Thank you so much for your long and detailed reply...there's an awful lot to take in and research.

I'm having problems knowing what expanding foam to buy.
I've had a look at screwfix and there is such a lot of choice...

Expanding Foams | Fillers, Foams & Putty | Screwfix.com

Could you please point me in the right direction....
My husband is NOT prepared to buy a foam gun...(no idea why )

I like the look of the wood fibre underlay , OH was thinking of hardboard, the underlay will be easier to manage.

Thanks again,

sx

FreeBear

I use https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/87934

with a gun https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-foam-applicator-gun/28483 - Not this one, there are cheaper versions available on ebay/Amazon..

Clean the gun with https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-foam-gun-cleaner-500ml/60133

You could use https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-expanding-foam-hand-held-750ml/75470 - But it is difficult to lay down a thin bead, and once you've used a gun, you'll not want to go back.

Ectophile

My solution to the draughty under-stairs cupboard was to draught-proof the cupboard door.  Stick-on foam insulation around the top and sides of the door, and a brush strip screwed on the bottom.