How to remove this brick?

FreeBear

JohnB47 said:

On the subject of removing the bricks, etc, I tend to use a drill with a mortar bit fitted, sometimes a very long one. That wil remove the pointing without too much damage above and below. Less damage done than using a hammer and chisel.

With lime mortar, I've used a pad saw to scrape out the joints - https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-7tpi-wood-drywall-pvc-jab-saw-6-3-160mm/210ky - Works quite well for the odd brick or two. Had a soldier course to deal with a few months back and ended up using a reciprocating saw. You can get carbide blades specifically for brick/cement/concrete, but most are too long for cutting out a single brick (easy enough to shorten though).

ChasingtheWelshdream

Hi folks, me again.

The brick is still digging it’s heels in, so I have decided to admit defeat and ‘repair’ it. 

Turns out I don’t have any cement and with no imminent projects, don’t want to go and buy a bag that will go off.

I can get a small tub of ready mixed mortar, or I can use the lime I have.

I am conscious that I have left it late in the year to do this, so need to get a shift on before the frosts.

Is the consensus to keep with lime, which will take a long time to dry, or cheat with modern mortar? It is just this brick.

Thanks!

stuart45

What type of lime are you using? Air lime or hydraulic?

ChasingtheWelshdream

Good question!

Er, a bag of ready mixed from Ty Mawr. I confess bought simply for convenience and they are local to me, not that’s I understand all the ins and outs. But the area I did last year held up so I bought another bag to finish off this final bit.

ChasingtheWelshdream

Just to add, I finished up last year at the end of September/beginning October and became paranoid about the temperature for a good couple of months. I think I was lucky we didn’t get too cold but would rather get this done by the end of the week so I can tuck it all up in a nice hessian blanket. The painting will probably wait until Spring.

stuart45

That's an air lime which relies totally on the absorption of CO2 to cure.
It will take a bit longer to harden up for a repair to the brick,  although you add a pozzolan like brick dust to give it some hydraulic properties.
One of the problems with air lime is that the outside hardens up first, so CO2 has more trouble getting to the inner side. 

ChasingtheWelshdream

I’m thinking then to just use normal mortar for this repair, making sure I don’t cover up the joints which would be pointed with the lime. Theoretically still allowing space for any moisture to still wick out? 

I am currently battling another stubborn brick, so may go back at the end for one last bash (literally) at removing it.

Apodemus

I'd use the lime that you've got.  What's the worst that can happen - it needs redone next spring? 

Years ago, I used up some lime mortar to fix an outside lamp in place during a rain storm in November.   Worst possible conditions.  I expected to redo it when conditions were better, but it is still in place today!

You probably have a few weeks before the first frosts and even longer before sustained sub-zero temps.  Talking to masons at Fort George, they told me that Historic Scotland apply an end-of-September deadline for using hydrated lime mortar - and I would imagine that the "Welsh Dream" comes with slightly warmer temps and is less exposed than Fort George!