Sockets for washing machine and dryer

itssmallstuff

Guys

I have a "2 socket + 2 USB" connection in my utility room over the worktop. I am planning to put washing machine and dryer under the worktop. Worktop isn't installed yet.

What is the best way to spur (hope this the the correct term) from the existing socket, run the wire from inside the plaster board (dot and dab) downwards and then out to two separate plug sockets (surface mounted). Ideally, Id like the switch (one for each appliance) next to the existing socket so it's accessable.

I have a fairly new wiring setup with RCD.

Megaross

I would seriously reconsider whether you want to run those off a spur, years ago a lot of the time you used to run them off a separate 6mm radial in the kitchen because the current draw can be significant.

In truth you can run them off a ring these days with modern appliances but off a spur is questionable. You're basically pushing the limits of what single 2.5mm twin earth will be able to provide if you run both at once.

Is running from the consumer unit an option? That would be my preference. 6mm T&E from consumer unit on a 32A mcb, you'll need the work signed off mind and if you aren't competent get a spark to do it.

grumbler

AFAIK, only one spur (one single or double socket) can be unfused. And a double socket is 20A max (c.4.5KW).

Also, make sure that the existing double socket is part of a ring, not a spur. Ideally, you want to split the ring and extend it instead of making a spur.

FreeBear

grumbler said:

AFAIK, only one spur (one single or double socket) can be unfused. And a double socket is 20A max (c.4.5KW).

Also, make sure that the existing double socket is part of a ring, not a spur. Ideally, you want to split the ring and extend it instead of making a spur.

And if the spurred socket is below a worktop & hidden behind appliances, it should have an isolation switch above the worktop.

Section62

itssmallstuff said:

...and then out to two separate plug sockets (surface mounted).

You may find there isn't enough depth under the worktop to have a surface mount socket and still be able to get the WM and/or dryer to fit flush with (or fully under) the worktop front edge.

I generally try to arrange things so the socket (or connection point) is in a cupboard next to the appliance so it can be disconnected from the electricity supply without having to pull it out, which also avoids the issue of not having enough under-counter depth for the plug and socket plus machine.

FaceHead

I somewhat agree with the points about not overloading the circuit: What else is on this circuit? If it's washing machine and tumble dryer being spurred off a circuit that already has your other kitchen appliances and/or sockets with kettle etc. on it, then you might push that circuit over the edge.

I'm sure you can sensibly add up what's on that circuit, and check what the MCB is (presumably it's a 32A ring). Spurring one double socket off a ring is fine. I would encourage you to check the ratings of the two new appliances through, to make sure they won't use over the 20A that the 2.5mm flex you'll use for the spur is rated for. If they together are up around 20A, you could spur it off in 4mm to be on the safe side.

So the hard part is getting a wire from the existing backbox to the new surface mounted one, whilst causing minimal damage that you'll have to patch up later. What's the floor made of? If suspended timber, it could be a case of down behind the plasterboard, under the floor and back up. If a concrete floor, you may have to make a couple of tactical holes in the plasterboard to help you fish a wire through and/or drill hole(s) in any stud(s). It could be that you simply need to come down the way from the existing socket to a new surface box which will be in the cupboard, in which case it's a simple drop down behind the plasterboard.