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Moving radiator with concrete flooring

Firsthomehope
Posts: 30 Forumite

I have a small radiator in the middle of a wall, which I want to move to the wall next to it (not too far and is next to patio doors)
we don’t want the pipes showing so we would have to dig into concrete floor and go into the wall too.
the wall where we want the radiator has two plug sockets which we would like to put in the area where the radiator currently is (essentially swapping the too)
im worried about the cost, the time, damage to my carpets, and potentially damaging my property
any help is appreciated
we don’t want the pipes showing so we would have to dig into concrete floor and go into the wall too.
the wall where we want the radiator has two plug sockets which we would like to put in the area where the radiator currently is (essentially swapping the too)
im worried about the cost, the time, damage to my carpets, and potentially damaging my property
any help is appreciated
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Comments
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Firsthomehope said:
im worried about the cost, the time, damage to my carpets, and potentially damaging my property
any help is appreciatedYour carpet wouldn't be there, but there's no doubt some dust will be generated, most of which could be extracted outdoors and the door covered to prevent the spread of any surplus. I'm assuming it's a ground floor. Chasing pipes and cables into a wall is straightforward and filling plaster afterwards should leave little or no trace.These are all jobs I did with no prior experience, so not exactly taxing, but make sure you know the route taken is free from other pipes, cables etc.A couple of visits from a builder/electrician to allow time for mortar to set and making good should do it. You will want a certificate from the electrician to show the electrics have been amended competently. Good tradespeople don't damage property sand have insurance just in case.As my old Mum used to say, "You can't make an omelette without cracking a few eggs."
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Woolsery said: Chasing pipes and cables into a wall is straightforward and filling plaster afterwards should leave little or no trace.Any copper pipes buried in concrete or plaster needs to be sheathed in (preferably) plastic. Cement will attack copper over time leading to leaks that are destructive to repair. If you are using 15mm copper pipe, 20mm plastic conduit is just the right size to slip over - It also gives space for the pipe to expand & contract without any annoying noise.Oh, and don't make any joints in buried sections of pipe if at all possible. One less point of failure.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
'Small' radiator, Fhh? Very good chance (almost certainly) this can be run via 10mm 'microbore' pipes and hidden behind the skirting board - either the existing, or a replacement (what are they like? Often taller skirtings with a nice profile like Ogee can really give a room a lift).I don't know if it's permitted to run cables behind skirting boards too? Prob not...2
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FreeBear said:Woolsery said: Chasing pipes and cables into a wall is straightforward and filling plaster afterwards should leave little or no trace.Any copper pipes buried in concrete or plaster needs to be sheathed in (preferably) plastic. Cement will attack copper over time leading to leaks that are destructive to repair. If you are using 15mm copper pipe, 20mm plastic conduit is just the right size to slip over - It also gives space for the pipe to expand & contract without any annoying noise.Oh, and don't make any joints in buried sections of pipe if at all possible. One less point of failure.1
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plumb1_2 said:FreeBear said:Woolsery said: Chasing pipes and cables into a wall is straightforward and filling plaster afterwards should leave little or no trace.Any copper pipes buried in concrete or plaster needs to be sheathed in (preferably) plastic. Cement will attack copper over time leading to leaks that are destructive to repair. If you are using 15mm copper pipe, 20mm plastic conduit is just the right size to slip over - It also gives space for the pipe to expand & contract without any annoying noise.Oh, and don't make any joints in buried sections of pipe if at all possible. One less point of failure.
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Woolsery said:plumb1_2 said:FreeBear said:Woolsery said: Chasing pipes and cables into a wall is straightforward and filling plaster afterwards should leave little or no trace.Any copper pipes buried in concrete or plaster needs to be sheathed in (preferably) plastic. Cement will attack copper over time leading to leaks that are destructive to repair. If you are using 15mm copper pipe, 20mm plastic conduit is just the right size to slip over - It also gives space for the pipe to expand & contract without any annoying noise.Oh, and don't make any joints in buried sections of pipe if at all possible. One less point of failure.1
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Eldi_Dos said:Woolsery said:plumb1_2 said:FreeBear said:Woolsery said: Chasing pipes and cables into a wall is straightforward and filling plaster afterwards should leave little or no trace.Any copper pipes buried in concrete or plaster needs to be sheathed in (preferably) plastic. Cement will attack copper over time leading to leaks that are destructive to repair. If you are using 15mm copper pipe, 20mm plastic conduit is just the right size to slip over - It also gives space for the pipe to expand & contract without any annoying noise.Oh, and don't make any joints in buried sections of pipe if at all possible. One less point of failure.
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We had satellite yard that could be unattended for a couple of weeks at a time and had signs of intruders having been in the yard. We had quite a lot of gash denso tape leftover from previous projects so wrapped denso round top of wire fencing, never saw signs of intruders again.1
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