Garage conversation footings

 As part of some work on my house I’ll be converting my garage, my bricklayer is saying to satisfy building control I need to dig proper footings where the door was for the 800mm high brickwork.
Is there a way round this?
Garage floor is a 150mm slab.
Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
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Comments

  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,700 Forumite
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    6 inch lintels across the front is usually accepted. Would depend on the size of the opening.
  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
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    edited 2 May 2022 at 9:57AM
    The slab is nothing - you cannot build a brick wall on it.
    Surely, there is some way around, but it's likely to be more expensive than a short usual foundation.
    E.g.
    Precast Concrete Ground Beams - TPL Mini Piling Specialists  UK Northwest   Total Piling
    Or build a lightweight wall instead of a brick one.

  • travis-powers
    travis-powers Posts: 647 Forumite
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    stuart45 said:
    6 inch lintels across the front is usually accepted. Would depend on the size of the opening.
    Standard single garage, I haven’t started yet just looking for options, thought about timber frame and cladding but this needs to sit on bricks so back to square one!
     In general would I need to involve a SE if I go the lintel route!
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,700 Forumite
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    You shouldn't need an SE, or it wouldn't be cost effective.
    The price really depends on who digs out the trench. If digging it yourself it's not worth using lintels. 6 inch lintels at that length are not exactly light.
    Talk to your BCO and look at the prices. 
  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 9,230 Forumite
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    stuart45 said:
    You shouldn't need an SE, or it wouldn't be cost effective.
    The price really depends on who digs out the trench. If digging it yourself it's not worth using lintels. 6 inch lintels at that length are not exactly light.
    Talk to your BCO and look at the prices. 
    Hopefully it would be obvious to anyone reading the thread that the lintels need to be concrete ones - but just in case it isn't.....  ;)

  • travis-powers
    travis-powers Posts: 647 Forumite
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    stuart45 said:
    You shouldn't need an SE, or it wouldn't be cost effective.
    The price really depends on who digs out the trench. If digging it yourself it's not worth using lintels. 6 inch lintels at that length are not exactly light.
    Talk to your BCO and look at the prices. 
    It’ll be my bricklayers labourer as I see it now if he has to dig out to put lintels in I might as well go down a metre and pour concrete, don’t make sense that a slab deemed strong enough for a car isn’t strong enough for a dwarf wall but rules are rules!
    On a house built 20 years ago with an integrated garage is there a chance that I may find footings below the slab?
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • GDB2222
    GDB2222 Posts: 25,972 Forumite
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    How much extra are you being quoted for digging the foundations?
    No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,700 Forumite
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    Travis-powers said
    On a house built 20 years ago with an integrated garage is there a chance that I may find footings below the slab?
    There is a chance, sometimes they pull out more than the piers.
  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 9,230 Forumite
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    ...don’t make sense that a slab deemed strong enough for a car isn’t strong enough for a dwarf wall but rules are rules!

    It isn't so much the strength as the problem of differential movement.

    The base of the slab is very close to ground level and can be affected by things like seasonal drying out of the ground.  If the slab moves about a bit through the seasons, or under the weight of your car, it doesn't really matter too much and you probably won't even notice.

    On the other hand, you will notice if the new wall founded on the slab starts moving around relative to the original walls.  Cracking is one possibility, the other is loss of weathertightness.  The wall could be designed to accommodate the movement, but typically that's going to cost more than a bit of extra digging and some concrete.

    I'd also not want to use the slab as a foundation as it could bridge the measures to keep damp and cold out.  Again that's something that can be designed out, but I'd rather keep the floor slab wholly within the inner envelope and not run the risk of having problems later.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,700 Forumite
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    Another reason is that the cavity infill should be 225mm below DPC, so any moisture getting through the outer skin will go well below. Building straight off the slab means the moisture sitting at DPC level.
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