Garage conversion - blocking the door from inside

_Sam_

Would this be a good idea to block the garage door from inside when converting an integral garage? It is an electric up and over door.

I'm thinking of several reasons not to convert properly (as in removing the door and installing a window). The finances are low at the moment so looking for a cheaper way hopefully without compromising quality. The bungalow is light yellow/beige brick, and I'm not sure we'd be able to source the same bricks to make the conversion "invisible" so to speak (it was built in 1950s). There is already a large window to the side of the garage with frosted glass providing some light.

The purpose of the conversion will be to create a utility room plus install couple of runs for the dogs. At the moment there is a concrete floor, which I'm planning to either leave or improve on with more concrete or something similar, with the view of having it waterproof and easily cleanable (dogs' runs will have shavings). So the main purpose is to insulate the walls, the ceiling well (and floor if necessary), to make sure that it is warm and also safe (so that people can't break in through the garage door).

Section62

_Sam_ said:

The finances are low at the moment so looking for a cheaper way hopefully without compromising quality. The bungalow is light yellow/beige brick, and I'm not sure we'd be able to source the same bricks to make the conversion "invisible" so to speak (it was built in 1950s). There is already a large window to the side of the garage with frosted glass providing some light.

A good builder's merchant will usually be able to source you bricks which are a very close match - but they don't need to, the alternative is to fill in the panel with something which contrasts such as a very different brick colour, or (for example) painted render.

The main issue with conversions is whether the owner wants to keep the garage door to pretend they aren't doing a conversion (i.e. to sidestep planning, BR or covenants) or if the garage door is being retained because it makes sense.  The former doesn't always work out very well, it can be a waste of space, and lead to a poor quality outcome.

Bendy_House

A room will only be 'warm' if heat is provided. Insulation will not make a room warm, but it'll help to keep any added heat in. So I presume you will be adding a heater of some sort?

This doesn't need to be insulated to current dwelling standards, or anything like. So really you'll be looking at a cost-effective level of useful insulation, coupled with getting rid of drafts - whilst still having the ability to trickle-vent as required to keep the room fresh and free from condensation.

The simplest way I can think of to insulate that doorway is to lock it..., frame the opening inside quite snug to the door, screw on sheets of rigid insulation board - Celotex type stuff, and 1" thick will do - and then screw ply or Sterling/OSB board over this to provide a durable wall surface on the inside.

The frame can be very basic - literally 3x2 timbers tight around the door recess (these can be simply glued in place using, say, a bead of Stixall - it won't move...), and then the minimum number of vertical studs in between in order to take standard sized Sterling boards, so 4'/1.22m wide? Cut and fit the insulation - it doesn't have to be thick - to fit snugly, and seal it around the perimeter, and then overboard with the OSB. These materials can be reused if you revert back at any point.

A cheaper but less effective - but still pretty good - alternative is Jablite insulation, which is just expanded polystyrene. Even this will make a huge difference, and go to 2" thick if room allows. Again, half the job is to seal around the perim, and also between the sheets. 

_Sam_

We definitely have no issues to avoid - happy to involve BR if necessary and there is no prohibition in the covenants. I'm no sure about contrasting bricks because there is nothing to match them with, the bungalow is very uniform, only that light brick everywhere and then the roof! But this is something I may be able to research how other people did it, to get some ideas so that it doesn't spoil the look. 

But financially it would be much cheaper from what I understood to leave the door in place - as there will be no need to dig in for foundations etc? I'm just wondering as to quality of such conversions with blocking the door, would there be any dump or other issues, or is it possible to do it well so that it'll serve the purpose?

_Sam_

Yes we'll be adding a radiator under that large side window. At the moment the bungalow is underfloor gas warm air heated which we'll be replacing most likely with ordinary combi boiler so new radiators will be installed everywhere including the garage.

Thank you for suggestions Bendy_House it sounds great! The garage is on the side of the bungalow and most of it is "inside" so to speak - the front bit of the garage sticks out beyond the line of the bungalow for about 4 feet, and that bit has a flat roof. The rest of the garage is under the bungalow's roof so under the loft. The construction is brick outside and breeze block inside, I know the bungalow has insulated cavity (that's what it said on the documents when we bought it) not sure if the garage has the same.

FreeBear

_Sam_ said: The bungalow is light yellow/beige brick, and I'm not sure we'd be able to source the same bricks to make the conversion "invisible" so to speak (it was built in 1950s).

Buff bricks may well be a close match - https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/lbc-milton-buff-65mm-BRLBC043

If you go to any decent builders merchant, they will have a wide range to choose from and are bound to have something that will be a close match.

stuart45

A contrasting brick as suggested by Section62 is often used nowadays for a brick infill. It actually looks better than trying to get a perfect match, but not quite a achieving it.
You will have Imperial bricks which are usually a bit bigger than metric. This often means the bed joints are large and ugly when toothing in.

Eldi_Dos

Would you be able to sell the garage door and electrics to help fund project?

Gavin83

I agree with the approach Bendy House listed. If you really wanted to add an extra layer of security you could even run bolts through the side of the door into the brick, although in all honesty no one is opening that with a solid frame in place.

If you wanted the option to turn it back into a garage in the future you don't even necessarily need to attach the frame to the door, it could easily attach to the floor, the walls either side of the door or to whatever is above.

If there's any sort of gap around that door and you don't think you'll wish to turn it back into a garage it wouldn't hurt to fill it with something such as expanding foam to prevent stuff from the outside getting in. Stick plenty of insulation in (it'll be colder than a brick wall) and then plasterboard over the top.

Bendy_House

Gavin83 said:

If you wanted the option to turn it back into a garage in the future you don't even necessarily need to attach the frame to the door, it could easily attach to the floor, the walls either side of the door or to whatever is above.

Just to be clear, I wasn't suggesting that they do. It could be just as you say - braced against the top, sides and floor within the door recess.

From what you have added, it sounds as tho' you'd might rather it be a permanent change? In which case, a better level of insulation all around might be wise.

If you were to remove the garage door, would you perhaps want a window there? Would the extra light be useful? If so, another 'contrasting' alternative wall finish could be to use dark grey/anthracite weatherboarding - that should contrast very nicely with beige/yellow brick. 

JIL

What about replacing it with a front door and glass panel? If your garage is like ours, we have a step down into it and if we converted we would have to raise the floor.
Otherwise I would have a wide window and rendering underneath.