Fallen at the final hurdle..

Bendy_House

FreeBear said:

MalMonroe said: Also, be careful with that electric socket, I don't like it there. I wouldn't like my daughter to be in a place that had a socket there, where it would be dangerous if the dishwasher flooded.

There should also be an isolation switch above the work surface. Being able to turn off an appliance at the mains can save a few pounds over the course of a year.

I'm hoping that there is. It'd be a hell of a stretch to reach a switch on there

Gavin83

While my post might have come across as a bit critical I agree with what Bendy_House has said. It's all very neat, especially the waste elements.

I'm not a fan of having more joints in a pipe that necessary, although it's not exactly a major issue. 

fenwick458

MalMonroe said:

Also, be careful with that electric socket, I don't like it there. I wouldn't like my daughter to be in a place that had a socket there, where it would be dangerous if the dishwasher flooded.

how would it be dangerous if the dishwasher flooded? 

I don't think it's dangerous, the only problem is it's not accessible. going to be hard to even plug the dishwasher in, let alone get to it and switch it off if you need to

Quorden

Big thank you to everyone that's responded!

In no particular order;
1) Yep, now that everyone has pointed it out I do seem to have over-engineered the connections, if I'd taken a step back and thought about it I wouldn't have added the extra valve in. Just that I was given it and much like an Ikea kit thought I'd best use all of the bits
2) The plug, by dropping some string down the hole I attached and pulled the plug up the back of the cabinet, with a bit of effort it fits, though will take the advice to cover it off just in case. Also it does have a separate isolation switch, as does the oven, the ceiling fan, the oven fan and all the kitchen sockets, a veritable feast of isolation switches in fact!
3) I'm taking the advice to swop out and use 'flat-faced' isolating valves, though for the moment as everything is fine and not leaking the rest of the connections will remain the same. Also will either secure the copper piping or at insert another false panel to make sure they don't get knocked around.

Really can't tell you how great the advice is that you get on this forum, for the six months it's taken to finish the flat this forum has been a godsend either in answering questions or reading related posts,  

Now onto three nights of building flat pack furniture then I'll never pick up another screwdriver in my life!

NeverTooLate

Quorden said:

Now onto three nights of building flat pack furniture then I'll never pick up another screwdriver in my life!

Wish you were my Dad! 

Rosa_Damascena

@FreeBear and @Bendy_House - how do you know so much? Same goes for @stuart45 and @fenwick458. It's so reassuring to have people like you on this board!

Bendy_House

Cheers, Rosa.

I understand that Fen and Stu are professional tradesfolks? FB, I don't know, but he's HUGELY knowledgeable on just about everything. I've basically been a life-long DIYer. Often too ready to not do things the approved way... 

chrisw

Quorden said:

3) I'm taking the advice to swop out and use 'flat-faced' isolating valves, though for the moment as everything is fine and not leaking the rest of the connections will remain the same. 

I wouldn't bother swapping the valves out now they're already in place and ok. You're more likely to introduce leaks fiddling with the olives and pipe joins.

Most of my flexi pipes are attached directly to the isolators and never had an issue.