How to stop rain splashing onto wooden cabin?

united4ever

Thanks. How much do you think it would cost a tradesperson to come and cut the excess off on the two sides? What trade would you look for? Paving company?

united4ever

revisiting this, looking at hiring this wall chaser:

https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/diamond-wall-chaser-900w-JTH02325

Might need to do a few parallel channels to get the desired width but it looks like an easier tool to use for a novice than the other tools mentioned. Thoughts?

GDB2222

Have you asked a paving company for an estimate?

GDB2222

united4ever said:

revisiting this, looking at hiring this wall chaser:

https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/diamond-wall-chaser-900w-JTH02325

Might need to do a few parallel channels to get the desired width but it looks like an easier tool to use for a novice than the other tools mentioned. Thoughts?

You want to make a few little channels to help the water run off? Is that the idea? 

united4ever

Yeah, paving companies don't seem interested  - too small a job.

yes, just a few small channels. Think I am going to hire this now:

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/sawing-cutting-and-grinding/diamond-cutting-saw/p/528189

Do you think the slits would be wide enough to collect water (would rather not be chiselling out in between slits). Was thinking one slit parallel to cabin and as close as possible. Then a few perpendicular slits out to the edge of the base. Maybe cut them a bit deeper closer to the edge to get some slope.

Also, do I need the dust extractor for this bearing in mind it is outdoor. I can get that too but that hire cost is more than the hire of the saw at £58. I don't have an old henry sadly and don't want to destroy my shark with this.

One more thing. It's out of view on this side - would bitumen paint/sealent like 'black jack' be ok to apply where the wood meets the concrete?

To be honest though I prefer to have the drainage channels.

Cheers again.

Eldi_Dos

Never used one of those wall chaser's so cannot comment on it. 
The diamond cutting saw seems a bit of overkill for the job you plan to do. When I was working anyone who had to use one of those had to do a course and hold a certificate before they were allowed to use one.
For near the price which either of them would cost to hire you could buy a reasonable 5" angle grinder which would be ample for the job,might be idea to get a couple of spare disc with it.If you were buying from one of the hire companies I am sure you could get a few tips on how to use and change the blade.
Good eye protection is a must.
Re-reading your previous posts I would think you would only need to put a slot the thickness of the blade edge in to act as a drain to run of the surface water

Mutton_Geoff

Surely if it's recently installed, the building installer should be sorting it out? In all the wooden buildings I've put up (sheds etc), the makers instructions are specific that the base is slightly smaller than the building so you don't get splashback. A clear sealant paint like matt varnish might be better.

united4ever

Update.  see attached pic. In the end as PP suggested I asked the installation team to come back and this is the result.

Not pretty but hopefully functional. They couldnt get any closer to the cabin due to the Stihl Saw being quite wide. It is just within the overhang of the roof so hopefully a lot of the rain can no longer puddle on the base. They drilled some drainage holes in the remainder too which go right through to the bottom.

I cannot see this side of the Cabin from my house so not too bothered about aesthetics but may put some gravel in there. Any other ideas to make it look better?

Brie

Go for the largest gravel as otherwise it will be one big cat litter tray.  

And have you put any preservative on the wood??

united4ever

good to know, I have put two coats of Osmo Oil on it (the clear one so still has the wooden look). It won't take more than two coats.