Gas and Electric costs - Price rise / help.

Aylesbury_Duck

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

I think that turning your heating off for those 19 hours it's currently set to tick over will save you a decent amount of your gas bill, especially when it's really cold out and when the heating will be on quite a bit to maintain 16 degrees.

Aylesbury_Duck

markin said:

If its a condensing boiler you can turn down the heating flow temp, you want the return pipe below 55c, takes longer to heat up the house but with less gas.

Is the loft the current 270mm of insulation?

And don't forget to insulate the loft trap itself.  Lots don't.  I have a pillowcase stuffed full of insulation pinned to the loftside of the loft trap, plus draught strips around the edge.

EssexHebridean

Small stuff that can make a difference.
- if you have a dishwasher, get good at loading it, but don't OVER load it
- wash underwear/socks after every wear, tops/shirts after every second wear (sniff test, plus if "workwear" take off and change for casuals on getting home)  trousers/skirts will usually do a few wears unless they are actively muddy. Make sure people aren't just putting clothes in the wash daily out of habit or feeling that's what you "should" do. And absoluely right - half-loads are a no - but the easiest way of ensuring that happens is to actually do the laundry, rather than "telling the wife..." when she comes to launder YOUR dirty clothes! (Also - modern machines often auto-adjust for half loads so this may not be making THAT much difference).
- Have a think about how often you wash  bedding/ towels. Not suggesting that either go for months on end but there are plenty of households out there changing both several times a week because they feel they "ought to" or because a friend once claimed that it was dirty to do otherwise. You know your own limits, but it may well be you can stretch those timings a little.
- Remind people that if they're not in a room, the dust bunnies in the corners do NOT need a light on! (And change any old incandescent bulbs you still have for LEDs)
- Have a think about those heating temperatures - are they the temps that are required when people are wearing long trousers. socks, and a jumper? Or shorts, a vest and bare feet? 
- Does the heating need to have the house "warm for when you all return" or could it actually have it warm for a half hour later, and make that first period of time as folk get home time when chores are done, thus keeping people warm as they are moving around.

Effician

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Sea_Shell

Effician said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Interesting.   How do you mean?   Literally pour in a couple of jugs full of hot water out the tap, or change over the fill connection from cold to hot?   (Actually, that wouldn't work for rinse cycle.)

Assume the built-in thermostat would then sort out what's what?

Aylesbury_Duck

Effician said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Some washing powders claim to be effective at 20C, meaning minimal water heating is needed for most of the year if you have a machine with that as a cycle option.

Sea_Shell

Aylesbury_Duck said:

Effician said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Some washing powders claim to be effective at 20C, meaning minimal water heating is needed for most of the year if you have a machine with that as a cycle option.

Even for towels and bedding?

Aylesbury_Duck

Sea_Shell said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

Effician said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Some washing powders claim to be effective at 20C, meaning minimal water heating is needed for most of the year if you have a machine with that as a cycle option.

Even for towels and bedding?

I've no idea, I don't have a 20C cycle option.  When people are really struggling with utility costs, 20C might be a trade-off they make.

Effician

Sea_Shell said:

Effician said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Interesting.   How do you mean?   Literally pour in a couple of jugs full of hot water out the tap, or change over the fill connection from cold to hot?   (Actually, that wouldn't work for rinse cycle.)

Assume the built-in thermostat would then sort out what's what?

You can pour it straight into the drum before closing door or add through powder draw when machine is drawing water . Our machine will do 20c washes but we prefer 40c & have managed to do full load 40c wash & 1400 spin with 450watt .

Ours sorts the stat & fill level as normal.

Astria

Sea_Shell said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

Effician said:

Aylesbury_Duck said:

nickpe said:

Gerry1 said:

nickpe said:

MWT said:

victor2 said:

Set the heating to be off at night, not 16 degrees - you're all tucked up in bed then, so don't need the rest of the house heated. Likewise during the day. If the heating is off it is costing you nothing (apart from the standing charge of course).

Depends on the level of insulation, but for us at least there is zero difference between 16C and 'off' as the house would never cool down that far over night or during the day anyway.

This is true, I’m not sure turning it off would see much of a change during the day, plus keeping it as 16 means it doesn’t have to work too hard to get upto 21 degrees when we all get home.

That old myth never seems to die...

I stand corrected 😀

thank you for some of the tips and the kettle explanation above is a very good example I appreciate it.

Ive told the wife to try and stop doing half empty washes in the washing machine, so hopefully she might do for example 7 cycles a week rather than 12

I know these might sound trivial but it all helps.

I always use a fully loaded machine, 40 degrees and lower the spin speed depending on the weather.  Lowering the spin speed saves a small amount of electricity but more helpfully, reduces wear and tear on belts, bearings, etc.  I only use the maximum spin speed if it's very still/damp outside and I know I'll need to use the tumble dryer.  Otherwise, I get away with 900rpm in the winter, 700rpm in spring and autumn and as low as 500rpm in a warm summer.  It's worked so far, my machines have lasted years each and I only use the tumble dryer about a dozen times a year.

For a bit more extreme measures you could reduce w/m heater on time especially on higher temp washes by manually adding hot water heated by gas from the sink tap, most washing machines are now cold fill only & fitted with a >2kw element which accounts for a large % of the wash cycles energy use.

Some washing powders claim to be effective at 20C, meaning minimal water heating is needed for most of the year if you have a machine with that as a cycle option.

Even for towels and bedding?

For clothes, towels and bedding that isn't stained or soiled, then 20c is perfectly fine if you are using a liquid detergent. It will just need more agitation, which your machine should do if you turn down the temperature anyway.

For soiled or stained clothes you'll need a higher temperature to get them out.