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Bungalow renovations - loft+rear extension - which energy/heat interventions are best?

Hi MSE'er! Newbie here.

We're in the process of buying a 1930s bungalow that's been partly renovated (new electrics/gas) but still has old windows, no loft insulation or external wall insulation - it's of solid wall construction.

We're going to convert the loft (hip-to-gable and dormer) and insulate it and extend the existing kitchen/living room 3m into a new open plan area, with new insulation on the new part.

In terms of what else we could do to make it more energy efficient/comfy/cheaper to run we're very probably going to clad in external wall insulation, replacing the old windows with modern high-efficiency double glazing but what else is the next, best thing? It's currently a gas combo-boiler and we've thought about air sourced heat pump or solar panels, but we'd love some suggestions/thoughts!

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Comments

  • knightstyle
    knightstyle Posts: 7,412 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    First thing is to insulate to a level as high as you can afford, start with the loft then windows next exterior cladding but that will be expensive.   IMO heat pumps are a waste of money. Solar panels for eletricity are not attractive as they were but perhaps water heating tubes on a south facing roof will be.
  • Thanks @knightstyle , we're pretty definitely going to put in new windows and insulate the new areas to a good a standard as possible, the external walls are a "pretty definite" too, as otherwise it's all for naught!
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,470 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    knightstyle said: Solar panels for eletricity are not attractive as they were but perhaps water heating tubes on a south facing roof will be.
    With the recent (and forecast) rise in energy costs, solar panels are starting to look attractive - With a smart control, they could be used to run an immersion heater when the sun is shining and/or complimenting daytime usage.
    Certainly insulate to the best possible level. If contemplating EWI, do bear in mind that window sills need to be extended - It may pay to have the windows replaced at the same time as the EWI installation. If you can insulate the floors as well, that will help to cut draughts (if it is suspended timber floor). But do be careful not to compromise underfloor ventilation.

    Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
    Erik Aronesty, 2014

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    crashd_3 said:
    In terms of what else we could do to make it more energy efficient/comfy/cheaper to run we're very probably going to clad in external wall insulation,


    Does the exterior require cosmetic updating in any case? If not, why not instead consider internal insulation added to all the external walls?
    Yes, you'd lose some internal space, but everything else should be a plus; far cheaper, far less work, almost certainly more effective, and no potential cosmetic compromises such as reduced roof overhangs and stuff.
    However, if this is all part of a complete exterior cosmetic overhaul - cladding and suchlike - then by all means go for ext insul and save internal space.
  • crashd_3 said:
    In terms of what else we could do to make it more energy efficient/comfy/cheaper to run we're very probably going to clad in external wall insulation,


    Does the exterior require cosmetic updating in any case? If not, why not instead consider internal insulation added to all the external walls?
    Yes, you'd lose some internal space, but everything else should be a plus; far cheaper, far less work, almost certainly more effective, and no potential cosmetic compromises such as reduced roof overhangs and stuff.
    However, if this is all part of a complete exterior cosmetic overhaul - cladding and suchlike - then by all means go for ext insul and save internal space.
    Yeah, we're reasonably set on external cosmetic updating anyway and new bay windows so external insulation feels like a better bet. We have had a look at internal insulation but it feels like we'd lose too much to be worth it.

  • Sounds like the place we are just buying. 

    One thing our surveyor said about improving roof insulation was to ensure there was sufficient ventilation. 

    Ours needs all new flooring so I’m contemplating insulating the floor but not decided yet. 
  • Similar to my new upcoming project. Walls are solid walls with no insulation (1950s bungalow). Going to extend and do a loft conversion. Was looking at ground source heat pump which is apparently a lot more efficient than an air heat pump - government will be providing a grant up to £6,000 in April for this. 
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,470 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    andyf1980 said: Ours needs all new flooring so I’m contemplating insulating the floor but not decided yet. 
    If you are ripping up floorboards, it makes sense to put some insulation down. Just be careful not to compromise underfloor ventilation or bridge the DPC.

    Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
    Erik Aronesty, 2014

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Thrugelmir
    Thrugelmir Posts: 89,546 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Ensure spaces are partionable. The greater the area to be heated the greater the cost will be. Even grand old mansions of the past had many average sized rooms. 
  • FreeBear said:
    andyf1980 said: Ours needs all new flooring so I’m contemplating insulating the floor but not decided yet. 
    If you are ripping up floorboards, it makes sense to put some insulation down. Just be careful not to compromise underfloor ventilation or bridge the DPC.


    And make sure you draught-proof the floor too.
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