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Type of bulb required for cooker hood?
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Yes, definitely not GU10.I'm afraid the old bulb has mistakenly gone off to the great rubbish tip in the sky..0
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Again, I'll ask the question. Have you actually tried a GU10 bulb in there?0
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Baxter100 said:Unfortunately it is not much help as the spots they show in the manual are the one with the different type of pin (the screw one) which doesn't fit into the sockets which have been installed.I did wonder - on the face of it straight-pin lamps are not really suitable for this application as vibration from the fan motor may cause them to fall out. I would expect a designer to specify lamps with a more positive retention system.I'd be concerned how this appliance had been converted from the manufacturer's original specification and the competence of the person doing so. And perhaps more to the point, if this wasn't a manufacturer's design change, why someone thought it was a good idea/necessary to do so.Personally I would go back to the manufacturer and get confirmation of the type of lamp fitted to this appliance at manufacture (quote the serial number) and if they confirm it was GU10 then I would assume that a potentially dangerous conversion has been carried out until a qualified electrician confirms otherwise. The combination of heat/water/steam and metalwork means alterations to the electrics of a cooker hood are particularly risky, I have significant doubt someone who was competent to make aftersale alterations would have attempted to do so.(TL;DR - possibly safer and cheaper to get a new cooker hood installed)0
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Section62 said:Baxter100 said:Unfortunately it is not much help as the spots they show in the manual are the one with the different type of pin (the screw one) which doesn't fit into the sockets which have been installed.I did wonder - on the face of it straight-pin lamps are not really suitable for this application as vibration from the fan motor may cause them to fall out. I would expect a designer to specify lamps with a more positive retention system.I'd be concerned how this appliance had been converted from the manufacturer's original specification and the competence of the person doing so. And perhaps more to the point, if this wasn't a manufacturer's design change, why someone thought it was a good idea/necessary to do so.Personally I would go back to the manufacturer and get confirmation of the type of lamp fitted to this appliance at manufacture (quote the serial number) and if they confirm it was GU10 then I would assume that a potentially dangerous conversion has been carried out until a qualified electrician confirms otherwise. The combination of heat/water/steam and metalwork means alterations to the electrics of a cooker hood are particularly risky, I have significant doubt someone who was competent to make aftersale alterations would have attempted to do so.(TL;DR - possibly safer and cheaper to get a new cooker hood installed)
Thanks, I agree with what you say. Looking closer at it it looks like they used some type of adhesive around the pin sockets, presumably to stop the bulb from falling out.
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Baxter100 said:
Thanks, I agree with what you say. Looking closer at it it looks like they used some type of adhesive around the pin sockets, presumably to stop the bulb from falling out.I think you nailed it in your first post when you mentioned 'bodge job'.As you are clearly aware of/respect the risks involved, I'd suggest there is a small chance that the white part you can see in the pictures might in fact be the base of a GU10 lamp which someone has 'adapted' to act as a lamp holder for straight-pin lamps. (i.e. they have smashed the glass part off a GU10 lamp and used the base in an unsafe way)If you are absolutely sure the cooker hood is isolated (not just switched off) then you might want to carefully check to see whether the white part (arrowed in the picture) will rotate and come out in the way a GU10 lamp normally would. Ideally only use a pair of long-nose pliers with insulated handles to do this.What I'm wondering is whether the duller brownish ring around the white part is actually the original GU10 holder. (the two holes which appear to be the lamp holder being the 'inside' of hollow GU10 lamp pins)Please be extremely careful though - any electrical equipment which has been bodged can be extremely dangerous. Don't attempt to touch anything inside the hood unless you are sure it is isolated.
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Baxter100 said:neilmcl said:Again, I'll ask the question. Have you actually tried a GU10 bulb in there?
I'll answer again, yes.
As @Section62 has pointed out, the base of that socket is indeed for a GU10 bulb but it may well be it's been bastardised to allow another a smaller bulb to be used. Unless you're competent enough to try and repair/replace the sockets I'd leave alone and look to getting a replacement hood.
If you are then you could look at something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-gu10-gz10-lampholder/3751h0 -
neilmcl said:
As @Section62 has pointed out, the base of that socket is indeed for a GU10 bulb but it may well be it's been bastardised to allow another a smaller bulb to be used. Unless you're competent enough to try and repair/replace the sockets I'd leave alone and look to getting a replacement hood.For clarity... what I'm suggesting is the white part might be the remains of a GU10 lamp which has been left in the original GU10 holder, that then had some other type of lamp (dangerously) poked into the inside of the GU10 pins as a bodge.I.e. the original GU10 lampholder could still be there, just hidden from view by the bodged 'adaptor'.If not, I completely agree that replacing the lampholder is not a DIY job, and a replacement hood is the only safe option in that case.
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Thanks for your help.
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I'd 100% agree with @Section62 - and a look at this YouTube video may explain why...
https://www.instructables.com/Reusing-a-GU10-halogen-lamp-reflector/
Once the old base is removed a new GU10 can be installed - make it LED though with a good colour rendering index.
Edit NB all tungsten halogen lamp base ceramics are normally glued into place and that glue, over time, can be a weak point. Linear lamps in particular.1
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