Electrical Question

fenwick458

Alter_ego said:

No you need 10mm. I'm not an electrician though

probably best not to advise people if you don't really know what your talking about

bris

Most ovens are now just under 3kw which you can plug in. Anything over 3kw will need 4 or 6mm

16A and 6mm cable will be perfect.

4mm cable could also take it depending on how long the run is 

Rich_richardson

Alter_ego said:

No you need 10mm. I'm not an electrician though

rob7475 said:

As above, you'd need more than 6mm cable. A shower can run on 6mm as it's only on for short bursts. An oven could be on for a few hours at a time so there's a risk of the cable overheating.

Ignore the above.

It unlikely your 16A cooker is going to trouble a 6mm T+E cable. 

I think you said you're planning to get a spark to sort it which is a great plan. 

danrv

donemedosh said:

6mm cable is ok for 16amp it is rated between 23 & 32amp depending on how its fitted ie if it runs in conduit etc

Yes. The cable run is a factor.
I have a 6mm shower cable that partially runs in loft insulation and also in a stud wall.
My Creda Solarplus oven is hardwired with 6mm cable on a 32a mcb and a 45a isolation switch.
I think this is normal for most electric ovens.

GDB2222

I’m pleased the 10mm suggestion has been corrected. 6mm should be fine.

Mutton_Geoff

GDB2222 said:

I’m pleased the 10mm suggestion has been corrected. 6mm should be fine.

Quite. I would have expected this the other way round, 10mm for a (decent) shower and 6mm for the oven. Not sure if the OP is putting the oven in his shower cubicle though ;-)

bengalknights

Mutton_Geoff said:

GDB2222 said:

I’m pleased the 10mm suggestion has been corrected. 6mm should be fine.

Quite. I would have expected this the other way round, 10mm for a (decent) shower and 6mm for the oven. Not sure if the OP is putting the oven in his shower cubicle though ;-)

Naa saving the cubicle for a barbeque install

theoretica

bengalknights said:

Before anyone asks i am planning to get the electrician in but they are currently busy to visit.

My question i have a 6mm cable running from a 32amp fuse on the consumer board that used to power a shower, the shower has since been removed and the cable is now just lying above the kitchen ceiling with black tape on it. 

Could i use this cable to hardwire a 16amp oven in the kitchen?

I would also ask if the fuse in the consumer unit should be swapped out for something smaller.

GDB2222

theoretica said:

bengalknights said:

Before anyone asks i am planning to get the electrician in but they are currently busy to visit.

My question i have a 6mm cable running from a 32amp fuse on the consumer board that used to power a shower, the shower has since been removed and the cable is now just lying above the kitchen ceiling with black tape on it. 

Could i use this cable to hardwire a 16amp oven in the kitchen?

I would also ask if the fuse in the consumer unit should be swapped out for something smaller.

The MCB rating is set to protect the cable, rather than the appliance. If the cable is run in a normal plasterboard ceiling, not heavily insulated, it is good for slightly more than 32 amps. So, there's no real point in changing the MCB. 

Section62

GDB2222 said:

theoretica said:

bengalknights said:

Before anyone asks i am planning to get the electrician in but they are currently busy to visit.

My question i have a 6mm cable running from a 32amp fuse on the consumer board that used to power a shower, the shower has since been removed and the cable is now just lying above the kitchen ceiling with black tape on it. 

Could i use this cable to hardwire a 16amp oven in the kitchen?

I would also ask if the fuse in the consumer unit should be swapped out for something smaller.

The MCB rating is set to protect the cable, rather than the appliance. If the cable is run in a normal plasterboard ceiling, not heavily insulated, it is good for slightly more than 32 amps. So, there's no real point in changing the MCB. 

Unless an appliance is installed using a BS1363 (13A) plug/socket (or some other 'local' protection) the rating of the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit does also have to be selected to provide appropriate protection to the appliance.

This is why it is good the OP is going to get an electrician in, because the answer to the question whether or not the existing shower cable can be repurposed to power a 'cooker' is more complex than just the current-carrying capacity of the existing cable.

A good electrician may decide there's no benefit from trying to repurpose the shower cable, and instead simply run a new feed all the way back to the consumer unit.  Given the relative cheapness of cable vs labour, it might benefit the OP to do this as a future-proofing option in any event.  IMV there's more money saving potential by doing some of the 'grunt' work for the electrician, than by reusing an old cable in a possibly dubious condition. (e.g. if someone just left it taped up I would want to do further checks/testing)