How best to improve an old 60s G-Plan table surface?

BooJewels

I'm hoping for some guidance as to how best approach this project.

I'm clearing my parents' house as it has sold and there is an early 60s G-Plan triangular coffee table, that I'd like to keep and improve the appearance of.  This table and I have history - in that as a toddler, I face planted it and broke the table and my head and I have a 2" scar above my eyebrow and the table has one corner re-glued.  It's personal.  

It's a beautifully solid, level little table, but it's face hasn't done much better than mine over 6 decades and it is badly marked with coffee rings and stains.  When I first retrieved it from under a pile of books, it had a pale bloom and and was very dry looking, so I cleaned it with some liquid gold wood reviver and whilst it looks healthier (and much darker), it has also emphasised the stains, making the damage more evident.  The legs and underside look pretty good.

My first thought is to sand the surface off (I've also seen it done with wire wool and wax stripper too) and re-wax it - but how deep are such stains likely to go?  Will it be veneered, or solid?  It doesn't feel as though it is varnished, but perhaps was originally waxed and this has worn off, hence it looking pale and dry?

The actual colour it now is, is rather more like the first photo, but the second one shows the damage a little better.

Norman_Castle

Most likely originally varnished which has worn away allowing the cup marks to mark the wood. The edges, underside or legs should show the original finish. I'd expect its veneered, if its solid the grain will match underneath and the edges will show end grain. Don't sand it. remove the finish with Nitromors or similar, If the marks remain after stripping wood bleach could remove them. Re finish either with a polyurethane varnish or with wax. Varnish will offer better protection but wax is easier to apply and re apply and should be fine if you avoid putting hot or wet cups on it. Personally I'd hope to keep some of the marks as they're part of the history of the table.

If you've never done this before depending on how important this table is practice on something else or ask a restorer for a quote. It'll likely cost more than expected.

BooJewels

Many thanks @Norman_Castle  I suspect you're right on it being varnished and worn off - the legs and underside look more like it has been - but the top has lived.  Really lived. I'll look more carefully shortly, now it's light - I was looking at it last night in artificial light and wasn't sure then.  I had decided that it was one solid piece as it's quite small and not that thick, but I will check the grain - thanks for that tip.

I watched a video from Gilboy's, working on a G-Plan coffee table and he stripped it by rubbing with fine steel wool after painting on some stripper goop.  He then very lightly hand sanded it as it was veneered, just to flatten the grain again, then sealed and waxed it.  I like the look of the wax and that would be enough protection for it, as there's only me using it and I never put a cup down on an unprotected wood surface.  He suggested re-doing it once a year to keep it glowing.

I also agree about leaving some of the patina - I suspect they're more likely to be gin or red wine stains, truth be told, as my parents' entertained a lot during that era, so I don't want to eliminate it entirely.  I would ideally like to take it from downright scruffy to 'well-loved'.  It's very solid and stable on its legs, so it's a shame not to enjoy it a bit longer.  I certainly want the repair to show - as does my own!

BooJewels

I just found a sold refurbished one on an interiors site and that stated that it was only made between 1953 and 1955, so it's older than I thought - but my parents married in 1955, so it was maybe a wedding present, or they bought it when fitting out their first home. 

This site described it as an 'oak finish', but not how it was constructed - but their photo looks like it was made in joined planks of solid wood, as you can see the end grain on the edges and the colour is in stripes of different pieces of timber.

Norman_Castle

BooJewels said:

I watched a video from Gilboy's, working on a G-Plan coffee table and he stripped it by rubbing with fine steel wool after painting on some stripper goop.  He then very lightly hand sanded it as it was veneered, just to flatten the grain again, then sealed and waxed it.  I like the look of the wax and that would be enough protection for it, as there's only me using it and I never put a cup down on an unprotected wood surface.  He suggested re-doing it once a year to keep it glowing.

I also agree about leaving some of the patina - I suspect they're more likely to be gin or red wine stains, truth be told, as my parents' entertained a lot during that era, so I don't want to eliminate it entirely.  I would ideally like to take it from downright scruffy to 'well-loved'.  It's very solid and stable on its legs, so it's a shame not to enjoy it a bit longer.  I certainly want the repair to show - as does my own!

Light hand sanding after stripping is good but don't try removing the finish by sanding, that's far to brutal and often ruins the surface and if veneered its very easy to sand through the veneer. The aim is to remove the finish without damaging the wood. It'll look a lot tidier just by removing the old finish

BooJewels

Having looked at it in better light, I am totally perplexed about the construction.  The sides are angled between the vertical side and the underneath, with a deep chamfer and the grain looks odd on these surfaces - on some it definitely looked like the end of a cut piece of timber, but on another, the grain seems to run along it, so I'm going to assume that it's veneered and treat it accordingly - with a delicate touch.  It's definitely not planked like the one I saw and another one looked solid oak too.  It also looks like it was re-varnished at some point in it's history as there are runs down the side.  

So, something to strip the old surface off, very light sand to re-smooth the surface and seal and then wax and buff, is the way to go I think.

twopenny

Here is a blog with the information on g-plan that might help.

https://www.vinterior.co/blog/behind-the-design/the-history-of/guide-to-g-plan-furniture/

Sand lightly with fine sandpaper along the grain of the wood

Get yourself kitted up with rubber gloves (you may need more than one pair depending on how quickly you work) and protective glasses. If you can get one of the current face masks even better. You are going to be face down as you do this and a splash should be washed off immediately. The process should be somewhere well ventilated

Use nitromorse and wipe over the top using paper towels or rags with the stripper on. Have a bin to throw them in as they are used. You can use a soft brush. Don;t go too far over the edge where the veneer is stuck. This is the gentle touch because of the veneer.

Wipe off the old varnish with paper towels. You;'ll probably need to do this process more than once because it's not like a garden bench.

When you think you have it clean use Oxalic Acid and an artists paint brush to paint over the rings. This will 'bleach' them out. It;s still available and is poisonous so wash afterwards if any touches you.

These processes will probably raise the grain a little. Use the finest sandpaper along the grain to even it out.

Wipe over with white spirit to get rid of all the chemicals and dust.

Let everything dry thoroughly.

This bit should be done in a dust free environment. Kitchens are good.

I haven't found a good polyurethane varnish locally but perhaps someone could recommend one. It will need to be thinned with turps or white spirit. Then using the softest, finest square ended brush you can find and put on a thin coat. Allow a couple or three days for it to dry throughly. Lightly hand sand with a fine wet and dry paper very lightly damp. Wipe with white spirit to remove all dust. Let it dry and give it a going over with a microfibre cloth before applying a second coat.

The varnish should be applied in one long brush stroke side to side or along. If you find you have brush marks sand again with the wet and dry, polish with microfiber cloth.

I've done this with French Polish, sanding between coats and waxing finally and being a careful person the finish lasted 10yrs. Still don't fancy doing it again but if you can use a good varnish that would give you endless years.

Underneath you need't worry about because no one will see it and you'll forget about it. Sand and revarnish if you wish to improve the overall appearance but it will be solid wood so easier to deal with.

A small treasured piece of furniture is a little bit of home comfort

BooJewels

Very many thanks @twopenny - that's very much appreciated. 

I've seen a stripper on-line that gets better reviews than Nitromors, called Bartoline TX10, which says it's for varnish or paint, so I've got some in my basket ready.  I went off Nitromors a few years ago when they toned down the formula and it didn't seem to work quite as well as previously.  But there's probably not much between them.

Interesting to read about the Oxalic Acid - sounds a bit scary though.  I found a product called Liberon Wood Bleacher (looked after @Norman_Castle mentioned it), which may be a milder consumer-intended similar product.  It seems to have good reviews for similar projects, so also have that in my basket.  I have a good supply of goggles, gloves and masks, as I make jewellery, so do lots of messy things routinely.

The idea of varnishing does trouble me a little.  I've done some smaller repair projects recently and even with care and between-coat fine sandings (I like to use micromesh, either wet or dry), I always seem to get brush marks in the final finish.  Hence I prefer the idea of waxing - I do better with oils and waxes and like the soft sheen of a wax finish.  I think the place I'd like to keep this table, it won't get much wear, so doesn't need the protection of varnish.  

Thanks for the blog link - I think it was that site where I found one of the versions of the table that I mentioned.  We also have a nest of G Plan side tables that need attention (my sister will have those) and I have some Ercol and G Plan kitchen chairs that might benefit from something similar too.

You mentioned it being a treasured piece of furniture - I always had a love/hate relationship with this table, due to spending my life explaining the scar on my head - but when I've now sat and examined it properly, it's a well designed and solid little table and I'll be happy to find a spot for it.

Thank you for your time to help.

twopenny

Nitromorse has changed again.
I too went off it but because other products werent working I tried again and it was really good. 
Another finish is linseed oil. You need to rub severral coats in , wipe off excess and wait to dry but the effect is beautiful, shows up the grain.
The only thing you need to do after that is a quick wipe once a year with some more.
I had some carpenter made furniture finished like that and it was beautiful.
Don't be afraid of oxalic acid. It's what rhubarb leaves contain.
Good luck. Photos when finished?

BooJewels

Thanks @twopenny - I'll look at my proposed regimen again.  Linseed oil is one I had considered as it does give a nice finish - I prefer the idea of either an oil or wax, to varnish.  Oil especially does seem to really enhance any grain pattern and make it shine - not necessarily glossy, but it does something almost iridescent to the wood fibres.

Yes, I'll show photos if it comes out okay.  I would have liked to get it nice before Christmas, but we're against the clock clearing the house now, so it will have to wait.

I read the article you linked about G Plan - this little table is an early E Gomme item from the mid-50s, so that's nice to know.  I was also interested to see a chest of drawers similar in style to a sideboard I have in my kitchen that my grandfather made.  The story was that my Grandmother wanted this G Plan one, but he simply couldn't afford it, but as a hobby cabinet maker, he made her one based on the design.  Having got the name of the design from that blog, I found a photo of the original and it's actually a pretty accurate facsimile of it.  

This is the original G Plan sideboard - which looks gorgeous for its age.  I think it's solid oak though.


And my version - which in itself is a project that's 30 years overdue - I intended giving it a facelift when I took it on, but have never quite got up the nerve.  Maybe the table will give me confidence for a larger project.  I think this is veneered though - he no doubt made it from what he could scrounge or find.  The top is in poor nick, the varnish or shellac or whatever he used has gone peculiar.  That definitely needs re-working at the very least.

BooJewels

Good morning.  I just wanted to add an update on this little table project.

Looking at it in oblique light a few days ago, I decided that the original varnish had almost totally worn off, as I could see odd little patches where it remained and the original colour showed.  So I decided to cut out the stripping stage and just removed these little spots with a round scalpel blade - some just scratched off with my nail.  I got some of the 'wood bleacher' rather than Oxalic acid, as I could get that delivered with other items, where the acid itself would have to come by courier almost doubling the price.  Turns out, the wood bleacher is/contains oxalic acid when I get it.

I've done several rounds with that.  On some stains it almost removed them completely, others it barely touched - it must depend on what made the original ring/mark.  I rinsed it with cold water as per the instructions, several times and immediately blotted it dry and let it dry fully. The marks still show, but they're a bit more subtle.  I decided to stop where I did, as I wanted to keep some of its patina and story.  I gave it a light sand with fine micromesh to flatten the grain again.  It was already a major improvement at that stage, as it sort of burnished it and it felt lovely to the touch at that point.

I bought the starter kit of waxes from Gilboy's as I've enjoyed watching their videos on furniture restoration and their waxes seem to have more care in their formulation and environmental impact (it was a product they developed for their own furniture restoration work, then they started selling it) and comes in 3 colours. 

I'm just in the process of waxing it.  I've used the different colours to even out the tones on the table a little - one end is lighter than the other.  I think it will end up slightly darker overall.  You need to apply it, let it sit for 30 minutes or so, then buff it to a shine, then let it fully harden for at least 24 hours, before doing another layer.  So I've done 2 layers and it already looks like it will give a very pleasing finish.  It's going to take a few more layers to get it glossy all over and even the tone a bit more - I won't get it finished before Christmas, but I wanted to make a visible improvement before it will be seen.   One stain at an edge is resisting it at the moment and it still looks dry and pale.

So I'll post photos once I've got it to the stage where I'm happy with the result.  I'm not sure that it will be possible to show the improvement, as much of it is in the quality of the surface, as much as the stains and it's quite subtle.