We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING: Hello Forumites! In order to help keep the Forum a useful, safe and friendly place for our users, discussions around non-MoneySaving matters are not permitted per the Forum rules. While we understand that mentioning house prices may sometimes be relevant to a user's specific MoneySaving situation, we ask that you please avoid veering into broad, general debates about the market, the economy and politics, as these can unfortunately lead to abusive or hateful behaviour. Threads that are found to have derailed into wider discussions may be removed. Users who repeatedly disregard this may have their Forum account banned. Please also avoid posting personally identifiable information, including links to your own online property listing which may reveal your address. Thank you for your understanding.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Advice on renegotiation (or not) of house price

Snow_Angel
Posts: 764 Forumite


Hi all,
I'd really appreciate some advice (please be kind as I'm not experienced in house buying or house repairs!)
I'm in the process of buying a late 1800's house. I had a homebuyers level two survey and an independent damp & timber survey done. Due to the house's age I did expect a number of issues. I'm just wondering which of the following you'd consider including in a price renegotiation, if any, as they were things I wouldn't have forseen. I wouldn't be able to do any of the work myself as inexperienced.
For context, the house is in a highly desirable area and houses go immediately, always over asking price. There is also a real issue with supply in this area, with demand exceeding supply. That's not just recently, that's been the case for a number of years in this area. Including me, they had three offers at same price. So for these reasons I'm wondering whether to renegotiate at all.
The main issues are:
- High ground levels at rear of house breaching DPC causing very high internal damp readings. External ground level needs lowering and drainage installed.
- No party wall in loft space
- Replacement of front and back doors due to wet rot in timber doors (causing internal damp also)
- Reopening one chimney stack.
- Chimney needs repointing and cowls required
- Due to internal damp, replastering of kitchen, dining room and hallway needed when external damp issue is resolved.
(There were also many other issues but I haven't included them as either I anticipated them or I think they're minor).
I'd really appreciate some advice (please be kind as I'm not experienced in house buying or house repairs!)
I'm in the process of buying a late 1800's house. I had a homebuyers level two survey and an independent damp & timber survey done. Due to the house's age I did expect a number of issues. I'm just wondering which of the following you'd consider including in a price renegotiation, if any, as they were things I wouldn't have forseen. I wouldn't be able to do any of the work myself as inexperienced.
For context, the house is in a highly desirable area and houses go immediately, always over asking price. There is also a real issue with supply in this area, with demand exceeding supply. That's not just recently, that's been the case for a number of years in this area. Including me, they had three offers at same price. So for these reasons I'm wondering whether to renegotiate at all.
The main issues are:
- High ground levels at rear of house breaching DPC causing very high internal damp readings. External ground level needs lowering and drainage installed.
- No party wall in loft space
- Replacement of front and back doors due to wet rot in timber doors (causing internal damp also)
- Reopening one chimney stack.
- Chimney needs repointing and cowls required
- Due to internal damp, replastering of kitchen, dining room and hallway needed when external damp issue is resolved.
(There were also many other issues but I haven't included them as either I anticipated them or I think they're minor).
0
Comments
-
What valuation did the survey give you? That is the first thing to consider before opening negotiations.0
-
TheJP said:What valuation did the survey give you? That is the first thing to consider before opening negotiations.0
-
I bought a mid-1800s house this year.
the issue isn't negotiation (when you view old houses you expect issues), it's about learning what all these issues are and whether you are happy to spend the time and money putting it right.
You need to understand what damp means, especially with old houses, and pick each item apart.
if you are going into this expecting not to spend money, it's the wrong house for you.
if you want to lovingly restore an old house, then it maybe is.
We've been pleasantly surprised so far, but we understand that we might be spending tens of thousands over the coming years.
my first questions would be;
why a level 2 instead of a level 3?
why has a 1800s house got a damp proof course?
but it's only because I'm learning!2 -
You'll need to spend a little money on the house, but not significant, so budget for that. Given the market you describe I would not renegotiate.Snow_Angel said:
The main issues are:
- High ground levels at rear of house breaching DPC causing very high internal damp readings. External ground level needs lowering and drainage installed.What is outside causing the high fround level? A flowerbed? A patio? Drive? Is it soil, conctete....? In most cases fairly easy to dig a trench around the wall (12"?) ad fill with gravel. DIY over a weekend. Of course if it's a narrow driveway and losing 12" makes it too narrow that might be an issue.- No party wall in loft space May houses that age had/have no party wall. Nowadays the rules for new builds is there should be a rire resistant dividing wall, but there are 1000s of properties without. Install one or not at your discretion.
- Replacement of front and back doors due to wet rot in timber doors (causing internal damp also). Budget for new doors. Cost depends largey on wood you choose. Quality hardwood will cost more but last (nearly) forever. Google for costs.
- Reopening one chimney stack. Surely you could just insert an airbrick in the stack if the problem is lack of circulation/damp? Chap on a ladder. (scaffolding will cost more if eeded).
- Chimney needs repointing and cowls required Ah! well combine that work with the airbrick(s). Probably not urgent so do it all when funds allow.
- Due to internal damp, replastering of kitchen, dining room and hallway needed when external damp issue is resolved.If you want an immaculate house tomove into, this is not for you. If you're happy to do these jobs, spread the cost over a couple of years, it's actually not that significant.3 -
Snow_Angel said:TheJP said:What valuation did the survey give you? That is the first thing to consider before opening negotiations.1
-
lookstraightahead said:....
why has a 1800s house got a damp proof course?
1 -
canaldumidi said:You'll need to spend a little money on the house, but not significant, so budget for that. Given the market you describe I would not renegotiate.Snow_Angel said:
The main issues are:
- High ground levels at rear of house breaching DPC causing very high internal damp readings. External ground level needs lowering and drainage installed.What is outside causing the high fround level? A flowerbed? A patio? Drive? Is it soil, conctete....? In most cases fairly easy to dig a trench around the wall (12"?) ad fill with gravel. DIY over a weekend. Of course if it's a narrow driveway and losing 12" makes it too narrow that might be an issue.- Reopening one chimney stack. Surely you could just insert an airbrick in the stack if the problem is lack of circulation/damp? Chap on a ladder. (scaffolding will cost more if eeded).
- Sorry maybe didn't make clear. It's a ground floor chimney stack that needs the fireplace reopening. Also easy for someone with the DIY skills (not me and don't want to botch it!).
Thanks also for your other comments. You've put my mind at ease. I think my common sense also agrees with you about not renegotiating given the circumstances.0 -
lookstraightahead said:I bought a mid-1800s house this year.
the issue isn't negotiation (when you view old houses you expect issues), it's about learning what all these issues are and whether you are happy to spend the time and money putting it right.
You need to understand what damp means, especially with old houses, and pick each item apart.
if you are going into this expecting not to spend money, it's the wrong house for you.
if you want to lovingly restore an old house, then it maybe is.
We've been pleasantly surprised so far, but we understand that we might be spending tens of thousands over the coming years.
my first questions would be;
why a level 2 instead of a level 3?
why has a 1800s house got a damp proof course?
but it's only because I'm learning!
I'm actually looking forward to renovating it and making it exactly my style. It's just the issues I listed were things I wasn't aware were problems when I moved in.
I'm happy the independent damp & timber surveyor identified the main damp causes.
I didn't get a level 3 as looking at RICS suggestions for survey levels it didn't seem necessary.
Don't know the answer about your DPC question I'm afraid.0 -
TheJP said:Snow_Angel said:TheJP said:What valuation did the survey give you? That is the first thing to consider before opening negotiations.0
-
I love my old house, creaks, wobbly walls, and all.
be careful that you get the right damp advice etc, ie, don't use new treatments for old houses.
3
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 350.5K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.9K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.3K Spending & Discounts
- 243.5K Work, Benefits & Business
- 598.2K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.7K Life & Family
- 256.7K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards