Insulating Push-Fit Fittings — How?

paperclap

Hi all,

I am planning to run 15mm copper pipe in my loft (flow and return pipes for central heating). Had thought about connecting runs of pipe with plastic push-fit fittings.

But, as they’re really bulky, how can they be insulated? The typical foam insulation that I’ll be using for the 15mm pipe can’t be used.

Thanks!

FreeBear

You can get pipe insulation for bigger pipes. But if you use solder fittings, it will be a) cheaper, and b) allow you to use 15mm insulation.

tacpot12

This seller on eBay sells a range of the larger sizes of Armaflex insulation: PipeLagging | eBay Stores 

Sell the excess on eBay or keep for your next project. 

paperclap

FreeBear said:

You can get pipe insulation for bigger pipes. But if you use solder fittings, it will be a) cheaper, and b) allow you to use 15mm insulation.

Think I may just use solder fittings! Keep things simple

grumbler

laurencewhymark said:

FreeBear said:

You can get pipe insulation for bigger pipes. But if you use solder fittings, it will be a) cheaper, and b) allow you to use 15mm insulation.

Think I may just use solder fittings! Keep things simple

Or compression fittings. Why did you suddenly decide to use push-fit?

rob7475

why not use plastic pipe in the loft? if you buy a coil of the lay flat pipe, you shouldn't need any joins.

tacpot12

Pushfit are a good systelm. I generally use Tectite pushfit fittings when doing plumbing. The Tectite Pro fittings maintain electrical continuity through them if this is required.  

Section62

laurencewhymark said:

FreeBear said:

You can get pipe insulation for bigger pipes. But if you use solder fittings, it will be a) cheaper, and b) allow you to use 15mm insulation.

Think I may just use solder fittings! Keep things simple

I just use some 22mm insulation, cut a piece the same length as the fitting, open one long side and slip it over the fitting.  It won't fit snugly and there will be a bit of a gap, so I fill that with a segment of another piece of 22mm insulation.  Then wrap with duct tape to keep it all together.

'T's can be done the same way, but carefully carving some of the foam away to fit round the side connection.

If you decide to solder in the loft then be extra careful of the fire hazards, and the difficulty of getting out of the loft yourself if anything goes wrong.  Also consider the harmful effect of fumes created when flux is being burnt off.  Make sure you have plenty of ventilation.  And after making a joint, consider going out of the loft into the fresh air for a while to let the fumes disperse.

paperclap

grumbler said:

laurencewhymark said:

FreeBear said:

You can get pipe insulation for bigger pipes. But if you use solder fittings, it will be a) cheaper, and b) allow you to use 15mm insulation.

Think I may just use solder fittings! Keep things simple

Or compression fittings. Why did you suddenly decide to use push-fit?

I hadn’t really considered compression fittings, as they’re more expensive than push-fit. But, suppose I could!

grumbler

laurencewhymark said:

grumbler said:

laurencewhymark said:

FreeBear said:

You can get pipe insulation for bigger pipes. But if you use solder fittings, it will be a) cheaper, and b) allow you to use 15mm insulation.

Think I may just use solder fittings! Keep things simple

Or compression fittings. Why did you suddenly decide to use push-fit?

I hadn’t really considered compression fittings, as they’re more expensive than push-fit.

I don't think so

   £1.25

   £1.20

Section62

laurencewhymark said:

I hadn’t really considered compression fittings, as they’re more expensive than push-fit. But, suppose I could!

I wouldn't.  Only on fittings (e.g. valves) where a compression connector is the norm, and push-fit alternatives are rather costly.

Compression fittings have the same bulkiness issue as pushfit, you won't be much further forward.  You are right that they cost more, but they are also more time consuming to make, and are demountable but require more effort to clean up and prepare to remount/reuse.


One option to consider is whether you can make up sections of pipework with soldered joints outside, then fit them together in the loft using a minimal number of push fit joints.  One advantage of that approach is after soldering you can flush the assembled pipes using a hose outside to reduce the amount of flux and debris that will need removing when the system is commissioned.

Obviously you'll be limited in the size of the pipe assembly by what you can get through the loft hatch.  Although, for example, if you make up an 'L' shaped run consisting of the vertical drop plus the horizontal link to the main flow/return pipe then you may be able to feed the horizontal section up into the loft via the hole in the ceiling that you needed to make for the drop.  In that way you could avoid having to make a joint in the confined space of the eaves.