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Outdoor light wiring question
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You can buy similar with longer fitted cables from other suppliers0
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Better still get something like this and you can wire your own cable of any length
Toolstation Product code: 64772Zinc Slimline LED Floodlight IP65 50W 4000lm
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Spinybif said:
Better still get something like this and you can wire your own cable of any length
Toolstation Product code: 64772Zinc Slimline LED Floodlight IP65 50W 4000lm
I realise you say 'like this'... but that item is discontinued (pre-wired seems to be on-trend instead) and so only available in branches that still have stock.
I've also had some issues with Zinc lighting products and found their customer services to be far below what I'd personally expect.
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Section62 said:anonymous112433 said:
Looks like I'm going to need to buy an outdoor juction box and connect from that to the mains.
Plugs to BS1363 are really intended only for appliances that can be moved round. Permanent fittings like fixed lighting should really be hard wired.
Bear in mind that removing a BS1363 plug from a socket also disconnects the 'earth' for the connected equipment - which isn't a great idea with any electrical equipment used/located outdoors.0 -
Risteard said:
Whilst I agree that a wall-mounted luminaire should be hardwired and not simply plugged in, unplugging it also disconnects all live conductors as well as the cpc so that is no particular issue.
IMV (I could be alone here) anything conductive in an outdoor environment which would normally be expected to be earthed ought not to have an earth connection which a user can arbitrarily disconnect.
Hence hardwiring, so only the live conductors can be disconnected without the use of tools.
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anonymous112433 said:Fortunately this light has sensitivity, duration and brightness settings.
It won't have a 'dimmer' lamp output lumen level control, so it'll be very bright when it comes on with no means to adjust that.
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Thanks for the replies everyone. As always on MSE forums, you ask a question and you end up with more information than you can absorb. After a good night's sleep I've decided to stick with this light because it's powerful (one of the main requirements) and has a year warranty. I will shortly be heading off to the DIY stores to get some proper cable and then a waterproof junction box.
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I think I'm going to go down that plug route because I don't plan on running the light for maybe more than 10-15 mins a day in the winter at most.
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anonymous112433 said:I think I'm going to go down that plug route because I don't plan on running the light for maybe more than 10-15 mins a day in the winter at most.
You won't get a unit with the same light output as the one you have already, but being free from wiring means you could place 1/2/3 lights strategically around the area to be illuminated to get a more even/better light distribution without the need for massive power output.
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the light in the first post looks like the flex can easily be replaced for a longer one. I have fitted ones like that from screwfix and if they are like that one in the picture, you undo the compression gland nut and the connections are in there. having said that, they did come without any flex and this was a good few years ago so maybe they have changed the deisgn and not updated the picture?
also, LAP are crap. they don't last very long. My personal favourite is Ansell Calior they are cheap and most of them last.
although you can't change the flex on those and they are only 0.5m long, (well actually you can put a longer flex in but it's fiddly and will invalidate the 2 year warranty)0
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