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Replace valve/washer/nut/seal for cistern water inlet leaking where nut meets porcelain?

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  • Grenage
    Grenage Posts: 3,200 Forumite
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    It looks to me (although one couldn't be sure from the picture) that the feed comes up straight, then sweeps towards the inlet. 
  • Section62 said:

    Can you post a picture showing the whole of the supply pipe - the first picture in the thread shows the pipe curving away down off the bottom of the picture.
    The piper curves to the other side of the toilet and goes vertically down into a small square in the tiled floor.



  • Typo: pipe (not piper)
  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 9,854 Forumite
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    edited 28 September 2021 at 2:40PM
    Section62 said:

    Can you post a picture showing the whole of the supply pipe - the first picture in the thread shows the pipe curving away down off the bottom of the picture.
    The piper curves to the other side of the toilet and goes vertically down into a small square in the tiled floor.


    So from that angle it looks like plastic - can you confirm that?

    Also, when did the leak start, and was there something which happened immediately before which could be the cause?

    Edit: The waste pipe connection also looks non-optimal. I wouldn't be happy with that myself.
  • NSG666 said:

    It might be as simple as FreeBear has said but if you can do it yourself, it might be worth spending a few extra £s and buying a new inlet valve with a metal shank - see link (I think Screwfix sell them too) These are excellent as it's pretty impossible to cross thread when fitting/connecting to them.
    Thanks for recommending a valve. I'll acquire it.
  • Section62 said:

    So from that angle it looks like plastic - can you confirm that?

    Also, when did the leak start, and was there something which happened immediately before which could be the cause?

    Edit: The waste pipe connection also looks non-optimal. I wouldn't be happy with that myself.
    Yes, it feels like a hard plastic pipe.

    The leak started a few days ago. During the week immediately prior to the leak, use of the toilet increased from once every few days to a few times a day.

    Also, at the beginning of that week, I had to acquire a plunger to unblock the toilet.

    I'm not sure how a waste pipe connection is supposed to look, but I can see why you'd think it looks makeshift.
  • NSG666 said:

    If the pipe is tight and you use a flexi hose then you'll need a 15mm x 1/2" and make sure it's WRAS approved as there is some cheap rubbish out there (even from the majors)
    Thanks for recommending a flexible connector.
  • Grenage
    Grenage Posts: 3,200 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Surely that's a copper pipe hastily brushed with emulsion?
  • Grenage said:
    Surely that's a copper pipe hastily brushed with emulsion?
    I'm assuming it's a plastic pipe only because it's grey where there's no paint, but I could be wrong. Could it be a plastic-coated copper pipe?


  • NSG666
    NSG666 Posts: 981 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    NSG666 said:

    If the pipe is tight and you use a flexi hose then you'll need a 15mm x 1/2" and make sure it's WRAS approved as there is some cheap rubbish out there (even from the majors)
    Thanks for recommending a flexible connector.
    You're welcome but now I've seen the additional photos, if I were doing it I'd probably buy the 500mm version of the flexi connector, cut the existing pipe back nearer the skirting, fit an isolator then a short bit of copper to connect between the isolator and the new flexi. You can get flexis with isolators but I don't like them so never used them.

    It can be a DIY job but only you can decide if that is within your ability range and if the pipe is plastic then you need to use a suitable pipe support depending on what make of plastic pipe it is. 
    Sorry I can't think of anything profound, clever or witty to write here.
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