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How do I access the inlet valve on a toilet like this?

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The flush on my toilet appears to be just... very broken. It takes about 30 minutes to refill, and everything inside looks very old and blue.

I've replaced the flush and refill mechanism on another toilet previously which was simple.

However, in this new house I can't seem work out how. Unlike previously, this toilet is fully sealed in. The cistern goes right to the wall, then to the floor, with no access to the pipes.

I suspect I might have to remove some of the tiles, but before I do that I wanted to check if anyone here has seen similar previously and has advice/suggestions/warnings etc.


Comments

  • 1. Its what's called a "back to the wall" WC.  Another triumph of form over function.
    2. To change the inlet valve you would have to remove the WC from the wall.  May mean no more than removing the two screws securing it to the floor and cutting away the silicone sealant where it joins the tiles / boxing in.  Might also be two screws securing the cistern to the wall.  If you do this, try to only pull it out as far as you need to change the inlet valve, and leave the soil pipe connection in place.  Less risk of a subsequent leak.
    3. However, you might well find just changing the diaphragm washer at the top of the inlet valve will fix the problem.  Much less work and less scope for things going wrong.
    4. Whatever you do you will need to isolate the water supply to the WC first.
  • grumbler said:
      Another triumph of form over function.

    I like this expression!
    However, IMO it's juts another example of endless botches produced by UK tradespeople.
    Yes, this type of toilet is absolutely nonsencical when combined with boxed pipes, but even if it was the owner who chose it, a concealed valve could be easily added to the boxing.
    Hopefully, it's inside the boxing and a panel on the right side of the toilet seems to be removable.

    Is the OP not refering to the fill valve rather than an isolating !!!!!!?  To replace the fill valve means to undo something on the outside of the cistern where the water comes in a tthe bottom of the cistern, which means pulling the pan away from the wall.

    When I did ours, the soil pipe was a 'concertina flexible' one and the inlet water was a flexible hose so everyhing could be connected up while the pan was still away from the wall.

    However, if the tiles have been laid around the toilet, rathet tahn under it, pulling the pan forward could be fun!
  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Yes, I misunderstood the post and deleted my reply before you quoted it.
    My apologies.
  • The flush on my toilet appears to be just... very broken. It takes about 30 minutes to refill, and everything inside looks very old and blue.

    I've replaced the flush and refill mechanism on another toilet previously which was simple.

    However, in this new house I can't seem work out how. Unlike previously, this toilet is fully sealed in. The cistern goes right to the wall, then to the floor, with no access to the pipes.

    I suspect I might have to remove some of the tiles, but before I do that I wanted to check if anyone here has seen similar previously and has advice/suggestions/warnings etc.



    Martian, how far have you got with the task? Have you removed the lid to see what type of fill valve you have? If not, there's a fair chance it'll be swappable from inside the cistern. Fingers crossed.
    Do you know how to remove the lid? Sorry if this is suck-eggs time, but just in case... You pull off the two press buttons, and if this exposes a large plastic screw, you undo that. If there's no screw, then unscrew the whole chrome button collar there.
  • NSG666
    NSG666 Posts: 981 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Sounds like it just needs a new washer in the inlet valve which can be done after removing the cistern lid - the difficult part might be identifying the make of inlet valve and hence the washer you require and then how it comes apart to fit it. Turn the water off at the main stop tap.
    It you can't fathom it please post a pic of the inlet valve in situ.
    Sorry I can't think of anything profound, clever or witty to write here.
  • BUFF
    BUFF Posts: 2,185 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    1. Its what's called a "back to the wall" WC.  Another triumph of form over function.
    back to wall was originally designed for use with concealed cisterns in bulkheads/furniture which works very well.
    I guess that lead to some people wanting the look without going the whole hog ...  :#
  • Rodders53
    Rodders53 Posts: 2,668 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Likely to just need a 'diaphragm' rubber replaced on the inlet, from the fault description.
    https://www.toiletspareparts.com/collections/toilet-inlet-diaphragms-washers

    Just had to do the second of 3 concealed cisterns in this home, fortunately I knew the brand (from manuals left by previous owner).  

    As per Jeeper's post remove lid.  Access via the push-buttons and hope for a makers name, somewhere.  Though some can identify the models from pictures.

    Finding and operating the isolating valve for the cistern is the next problem.  It might be visible/accessible via that gap at rear of the pan with a suitable screwdriver?  
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