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Oh My Gawd, just had the building survey report on the 160 year old property I'm buying.

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Comments

  • @youth_leader that sounds really tough  :'( I was worried that my buyer might be a developer and insisted on my estate agent trying to find out a bit more about the buyer.  Time will tell if he is or isn't.  I have in mind a figure I will drop to, and hope to be able to stick with it.  He has a large deposit so I don't think there will be much leverage if he gets a low mortgage valuation.  It's good that you were able to sell at auction and move on.  It's a home while you are there, and a business transaction as you leave I guess.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,297 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Heres_the_deal said: The house has been dry walled throughout, so I have no clue what the internal plaster is. There are around 100-150 spalled bricks that require replacement, and at least 60% of the external walls need repointing with lime. The rest was done during work in 2005 ( not to a good standard though).

    There is a leak in the roof from the cement fillet (no lead flashing), and the roof tiles are breaking down (penetrating damp). It also appears to have had a concrete floor laid (surveyor could not access). Chimney stacks need repointing, flues covered, air vents put in roof space etc.

    So lots of damp issues due to bodged work and spalling due the cement pointing. 

    Windows I have accounted for in my budget ( sash in a conservation area!).  eek !!!
    With a concrete floor along with all the other damage, I'd personally seriously consider walking away unless there was a massive drop in price. Spalled bricks on their own are not too difficult to deal with if you can find matching ones (probably reclaimed). 160 year old bricks will be difficult to match with new ones - Modern bricks will be a different size, though there are companies that specialise in hand made custom bricks (darned expensive).
    If there is an air gap behind the drywall, that should avoid too much damp coming through - If it does need stripping off, there are ways to avoid triggering building control regs (just do <25% at a time). If you insulate the walls, use a warm batten method or cork/woodwool boards & lime plaster.
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    Erik Aronesty, 2014

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  • @edgex I was hoping to make use of the fireplaces. But as the property is in a conservation area, I've been told its highly unlikely planning would agree to the removal of the stacks.


    @FreeBear There has been various bodged work on the property over the years. The worse in the last 20 years where modern bricks have been used to block up a doorway and other repairs. One wall looks like it has been built by a drunk farmer (more than likely was) and the rest  " has clearly suffered a host of various interventions of dubious workmanship ranging from average, semi-skilled to poor; and possibly the work of an unskilled handyman" (quote from a highly respected historic brickwork consultant). Some say it has character, that would be true if the c19th housemaid had built the extension in around 1899. However, I fear much of the bodge were carried out in the last 20 years and (in the process of checking) received the thumbs up from building control.

    The house cost a shade under £139k (that's the going rate for these parts of East Midlands). It was originally up for £170k, so I've had a fair chunk off, but works could cost in the region of £40k to have it un-bodged (quotes are very basic at present). Combined, that would be £180k. I doubt it would sell on the open market for that price.

    I'm not young, have health issues, and whilst I don't mind replacing the windows, doing some pointing and replacing the odd brick ( assuming I can source them). My energy and skills stop at full roof replacement and pointing 140 square metres of brickwork. The inside is fully modernised to a good standard. That leaves me with around £10-15k to address the brickwork, and damp issues assuming I repair, not replace the roof.  I have some decisions to make.


  • Mickey666
    Mickey666 Posts: 2,834 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Photogenic First Anniversary Name Dropper
    FreeBear said:
    Heres_the_deal said: The house has been dry walled throughout, so I have no clue what the internal plaster is. There are around 100-150 spalled bricks that require replacement, and at least 60% of the external walls need repointing with lime. The rest was done during work in 2005 ( not to a good standard though).

    There is a leak in the roof from the cement fillet (no lead flashing), and the roof tiles are breaking down (penetrating damp). It also appears to have had a concrete floor laid (surveyor could not access). Chimney stacks need repointing, flues covered, air vents put in roof space etc.

    So lots of damp issues due to bodged work and spalling due the cement pointing. 

    Windows I have accounted for in my budget ( sash in a conservation area!).  eek !!!
    With a concrete floor along with all the other damage, I'd personally seriously consider walking away unless there was a massive drop in price. Spalled bricks on their own are not too difficult to deal with if you can find matching ones (probably reclaimed). 160 year old bricks will be difficult to match with new ones - Modern bricks will be a different size, though there are companies that specialise in hand made custom bricks (darned expensive).
    If there is an air gap behind the drywall, that should avoid too much damp coming through - If it does need stripping off, there are ways to avoid triggering building control regs (just do <25% at a time). If you insulate the walls, use a warm batten method or cork/woodwool boards & lime plaster.
    The other way to avoid BC involvment is simply not tell them.  They'll never find out, if they do they almost certainly won't care and after a few (4?) years can do nothing about it anyway.   Plus, as you rightly say, the ridiculous 25% rule give you an easy get out in the unlikely event they do find out ("Yes Mr BC inspector, all my walls have been replastered in an appropriate material to prevent further damage and damp, and it was done over many weeks a little bit at a time").

    Agree about wood-wool boards & lime plaster if necessary, though I'd be inclined to just leave the dry-lining in place for a while to see if there are any problems.
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