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Fence post brackets - yes or no?
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sol2017
Posts: 122 Forumite

Has anyone got experience with fence post brackets, particularly fixing to concrete?
Something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/easygrip-post-shoe/p58942?store=OC&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoqbskcuN8AIVZIBQBh08aA93EAQYASABEgJ6m_D_BwE
My fence is in a bit of a state and current fence posts have rotten and I'd like to replace them and install new 6ft fence panels. Posts are set in a concrete base (please see the photo below) and steel brackets seem much easier to install than ripping everything up and installing new posts in concrete again. However, a friend of mine says that steel brackets are no good.

Has anyone got any good or bad experience with 6ft tall fence posts in steel brackets?
Something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/easygrip-post-shoe/p58942?store=OC&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoqbskcuN8AIVZIBQBh08aA93EAQYASABEgJ6m_D_BwE
My fence is in a bit of a state and current fence posts have rotten and I'd like to replace them and install new 6ft fence panels. Posts are set in a concrete base (please see the photo below) and steel brackets seem much easier to install than ripping everything up and installing new posts in concrete again. However, a friend of mine says that steel brackets are no good.

Has anyone got any good or bad experience with 6ft tall fence posts in steel brackets?
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Comments
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Not sure it will work, especially if you are going with fence panels. These will catch the wind and put considerable strain on the fixings, If you were going for what you have currently where by its picking up less wind I would say you would be ok.
Also will need to factor in that you will need Rawl bolts to fix them and need to pre drill tons of holes. Also minimum should be 100x100mm posts for 6ft.
No scope just to move the fence back a little onto the grass?1 -
As Swoosh and your friend says, there will be a huge amount of leverage on the metal bracket, so they'd need to be strong and very well secured. Even then I bet you'll have some sideways play, and they also don't look very nice...How many posts are involved? How much effort would it be to remove the rotting timber from the concrete holes? If you could do this, and could also find concrete (or perhaps recycled plastic?) posts that'll fit, that would be by far your best bet - super-strong, super-secure, super-neat.Having the timbers posts already neatly bedded in concrete is a huge plus - I'd personally be looking to take advantage of thisI did similar at sis's house - the timber posts had rotted at ground level, and in once case was so bad I could literally scoop out the rotted pulp (which left a timber skin tight against the concrete hole which I presume was the treated surface of the timber!). Because it was so rotten, it didn't take too much effort to remove them, but some were a pain and needed chiselling and drilling out. I don't know if there's a large 'screw' that could be driven in and used to lever them out? Or at least a large flat drill bit with a powerful drill that'll 'core' it?Your concrete base there is neat - I'd definitely be looking at taking advantage of this.If you cannot find full-height concrete posts to fit in the holes, perhaps concrete stub-posts will fit, so you simply bolt your new timber posts to them, making sure the bottoms are off the ground.1
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My neighbour in a previous house used these on concrete with no problem. She used them with fence panels, but the area was quite sheltered.. . .I did not speak out
Then they came for me
And there was no one left
To speak out for me..
Martin Niemoller1 -
The fence is around 14m long in total, I am only replacing a 2 x 6ft section closest to the house - both to fix the rotten posts and to improve privacy. Other posts are still in decent condition and I'll only replace rotten wood where necessary. The new panels will have gaps between laths albeit much smaller than now.
It's a shared fence. My neighbour doesn't want any expense as they're selling the house soon, so I'm trying to do some maintenance while keeping the costs down.
Thanks for the ideas! I agree that existing concrete is very neat, so I'm reluctant to break it up. Concrete repair spurs sound like a great idea providing the existing posts can be completely removed and spur fitted in existing hole. One of the posts definitely won't be a problem but not sure about the other 3 (yes, 3 because they're not spaced out for standard panels; might be around 3ft distance between them).
I still like the bracket idea especially with upgrades suggested by grumbler. Just need to discuss with the builder and find the best solution for the site.
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If you want to keep the costs down, try removing the existing posts from concrete first and clear the square holes. If they are rotten, than this can be not that hard to do with some big diameter and long drill bit, possibly a flat oneThen I'd just try to insert the new posts into the existing holes. If it's concrete, holes don't have to be very deep. IMO, 10-15cm will suffice.
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What about one of these? https://www.toolstation.com/drive-in-repair-spike/p69167
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ic said:What about one of these? https://www.toolstation.com/drive-in-repair-spike/p69167
I was looking at these though: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-concrete-in-post-supports-75-x-75mm-2-pack/94102?tc=NA5&ds_kid=92700052138697897&ds_rl=1249410&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIht7Z--ON8AIVEtd3Ch018wsAEAQYFSABEgLStPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Would these work better than bolt ones?
Another thought - current posts are 75mm (1.5m high). Do I need 100mm posts if I'm increasing the height to 1.8m or will 75mm be fine?
Thanks, I was wondering if inserting new posts into existing holes was possible??0 -
sol2017 said:ic said:What about one of these? https://www.toolstation.com/drive-in-repair-spike/p69167"For replacement of rotted posts broken at ground level. "As almost all posts are in concrete (underground or up to the surface),I think it's hammered into the part of the old post remaining in the concrete
100 x 100 x 300mm
this means that the old post has to be 100x100mm
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As mentioned above, I'd recommend that you use the repair spikes. I've used them to replace individual posts on my six-foot garden fence. In fact, because the posts had rotted below the ground level, in the concrete, I was able to saw off the post bottoms and re-use the posts themselves in the repair spikes. I first did this about 15 years ago on the very exposed side of my property in northern Scotland and the fence is still standing - trees planted behind the fence turn horizontal above fence level, which shows just how exposed this is!
You need to match the size of repair spike to your old post, but if your new post is a slightly different size, you can either trim it slightly or wedge it in place - some repair spikes come with a side bolt for adjustment. I found it easier to get everything straight by hammering the post into the repair spike with it all lying flat on the ground, before introducing the repair spike to the hole in the concrete.
EDIT: If you google 75mm repair spike, you will see that this size is available.1
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