Isolation Valve - Do I need to replace it?

Rodders53

Silicon grease lubricates threads if ever needed - typically only larger fittings.  

Jeepers_Creepers

I'll be sticking to my smear of Fernox on all my compression fittings, if that's all right with folk

anonymous112433

A shoet update on the isolation valve, I decided to take on board some advise from the handyman on a youtube video where he says if you ever so slightly by about 5 degrees of a circle open the valve it should stop the leak. I did that 2 days ago and so far it's not produced even 1 drop of water. So maybe I was getting worried over nothing.

Still waiting on my flexi hoses to arrive so downstairs wc still out of commission.

Jeepers_Creepers

You really do want the valve fully working, tho'...

anonymous112433

After I opened up the tap and disconnected the flexi hoses I realised just how cheap it was built and why it didn't last. Replaced the whole tap and flexi pipes 3 days ago and it has so been ok.

The isolating valve most certainly will ned to be replaced because there's an ever so slight leak from the screw. I'll take a picture and upload later and ask you guys which is the best option for a replacement. I'm not a plumber/builder just a regular guy with standard tools at home so will need something that doesn't need ptf or other stuff when I replace it.

Edit:

Here is a link with the picture. Can I get a good quality like for like replacement at Wickes, Screwfix or Toolstation cause all 3 are near me.

https://imgur.com/a/Z01xAoO

Jeepers_Creepers

All three are good sources - I recommend them all.

Wickes might win here as you can take your old valve along and physically compare them?

I would also get a tub of Fernox Hawk White since you'll be keeping the old nuts and olives, and just replacing the middle valve part. (Give the stuff a good stir each time you use it - it does settle. It'll last years, tho', so your first tub could be your last...)

I'd recommend a good adjustable spanner and also an adjustable wrench, the former for the nuts, the latter to hold the valve body still.

Undo both nuts, and wriggle the valve out. Clean up the olives - wire brush or scouring pad (don't let carp fall into the open pipe...), and then give the olives and the threads a smear of FHW. Do up both nuts by hand and then by spanner until they 'seat', and then 'feel' the last amount required - once it becomes properly stiff, only give it a quarter-turn more.

anonymous112433

Jeepers_Creepers said:

All three are good sources - I recommend them all.

Wickes might win here as you can take your old valve along and physically compare them?

I would also get a tub of Fernox Hawk White since you'll be keeping the old nuts and olives,

Thanks for all the pointers. I'm going to go screwfix as they open earlier - fortunately mine are usually nice enough for you to take a look before you buy.

Is there any reason to not get new olives whilst I'm there? I have a spanner, and a couple of adustable wrenches but not the otheer stuff mentioned.

Jeepers_Creepers

anonymous112433 said:

Thanks for all the pointers. I'm going to go screwfix as they open earlier - fortunately mine are usually nice enough for you to take a look before you buy.

Is there any reason to not get new olives whilst I'm there? I have a spanner, and a couple of adustable wrenches but not the otheer stuff mentioned.

The trickiest part of the whole job will be removing the old olives. And, really, it's very unlikely to be necessary.

However, of course it's best if you do...

Two ways - remove the valve body and then set the jaws of your wrench between the open end of the pipe and the other behind the nut - best if you have two wrenches and work from each side at the same time. Gently squeeze, and the chances are the olive will be pushed up the pipe by the nut. When you get to the end, gently tap the nut from behind to edge the olive the rest of the way. This only works if someone hasn't overtightened the olive in the first place.

The other way is to use a hacksaw to cut into the olive side to most of its depth to leave a 'screwdriver slot' (don't score the pipe...). Then insert a flat-bladed screwdriver and twist - it should snap and come off.

Good luck... :-)