Isolation Valve - Do I need to replace it?

anonymous112433

Last week one of my flexi hose tap connectors burst and fortunately we heard so could quickly turn off the supply and dry out the water. Thankfully all of the pipework has isolation valves fitter so we could isolate that tap. I've ordered a pair and will be swapping out both flexi hoses.

However my question is regarding the isolation valve, I've noticed that there's a tiny amount of water coming out near where the screw is and was wondering if this means it's damaged and needs replacing? It's probably about one drop per hour because i've been checking regularly. I've read a couple of comments in youtube videos where people suggest this is quite normal but I don't think an isolation should be leaking any water at all.

Jeepers_Creepers

It shouldn't be leaking, but it is quite common for them to do so.

You might (probably will) be lucky and find that it stops when the valve is reopened. If so, it won't be because of anything to do with water flow or pressure, but just because the valve is sitting in a better part of its seal, one that doesn't leak!

Inside the valve is a SS ball with a hole drilled through it to allow the water to pass. The ball sits in a (usually) nylon socket, and the two are usually snug enough to prevent leaks. The screw turny thing might also have its own wee rubber O ring, I'm not sure.

Basically it's a lottery - there's a good chance that it'll stop dripping when it's reopened, but a slight chance it'll carry on.

Usually, if it stops, it stays stopped. Until you turn it again.

You know where your main stopcock is? Cool. I think I'd just replace the flexis for now (go for decent quality, known-brand types), but keep an eye on the isolating valves once reopened and be prepared to replace them if needed - place some tissue paper under them, and any drips will show as wrinkled patches even if they dry out.

Don't worry about a dripping valve suddenly 'bursting forth' - they don't do that. (Famous last words...)

anonymous112433

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Basically it's a lottery - there's a good chance that it'll stop dripping when it's reopened, but a slight chance it'll carry on.

Usually, if it stops, it stays stopped. Until you turn it again.

You know where your main stopcock is? Cool. I think I'd just replace the flexis for now (go for decent quality, known-brand types), but keep an eye on the isolating valves once reopened

Don't worry about a dripping valve suddenly 'bursting forth' - they don't do that. (Famous last words...)

Fortunately the isolation valves are a relatively cheap part around £5 for the highest rated ones on hardware sites. Yes the main stoptap is in my garage and easily accessible.

The bad thing about these flexi hoses? They're not available in screwfix/toolstation so I have had to go on Amazon and go based on European reviews.

Thank you for the advice and tips, I'll get my flexi hoses in a couple of days so hopefully I will know soon.

Belenus

anonymous112433 said:

However my question is regarding the isolation valve, I've noticed that there's a tiny amount of water coming out near where the screw is and was wondering if this means it's damaged and needs replacing? It's probably about one drop per hour because i've been checking regularly. I've read a couple of comments in youtube videos where people suggest this is quite normal but I don't think an isolation should be leaking any water at all.

I agree with JC. It will probably not drip when opened up again.

We have one for our bathroom toilet that is fine when fully open or fully closed but spurts about a teaspoon full of water when moving between the two.

On the very rare occasions I need to use it I just use a cloth or piece of kitchen roll to catch the water. That is far less effort than replacing it.

southcoastrgi

What does your flexi look like if you have to order them from Europe ?

anonymous112433

southcoastrgi said:

What does your flexi look like if you have to order them from Europe ?

One side into the tap and the other side into an isolation valve or 15mm pipe fitting. I will be slotting mine into the valves.

MSE won't let me post the links but the description of what I've ordered from Amazon is:

2 x 10mm x 1/2 BSP (300mm Long) Kitchen/Basin Monobloc Mixer Tap Connector Flexi Pipes Tails -FBA

Jeepers_Creepers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xcel-Home-Kitchen-Monobloc-Connectors/dp/B07771N4SV/ref=pd_day0_1?pd_rd_w=bHtQY&pf_rd_p=8ec13b8a-30d2-48fc-8503-84c56766370d&pf_rd_r=02DTBG60VNE83ZY3T4SC&pd_rd_r=f28ab8b4-1c0f-47b8-b21f-5b56c52e5b82&pd_rd_wg=lEGCJ&pd_rd_i=B07771N4SV&psc=1 ?

Jeepers_Creepers

One thing to watch out for if fitting that type of 1/2" BSP female fitting on to the end of an isolation valve which currently has a copper pipe going into it; when you remove the 1/2" nut from the end of the isolating valve to expose where the pipe and olive sits, you'll find the round edge facing you is quite sharp. When you screw that flexi fitting on there, that sharpish edge will be pressing into the rubber washer of the flexi hose. It should seal ok, but that sharp round edge isn't designed for this - to be pressed into a flat rubber washer.

If you look at, say, the open end of a washing machine valve, you'll find a flattened top to that round edge - that is designed for flat rubber washers.

Basically, if you go this route, don't screw the flexi down too tight. Just enough to stop it leaking - and then a quarter-turn tweak more.

Jeepers_Creepers

If your current isolating valves have short lengths of copper pipe coming out of them, I'd be inclined to stick with that - you can almost certainly reuse the end nut and olive that's there - although ideally with a smear of Fernox Hawk White.

Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-tails-10mm-x-15mm-x-300mm-2-pack/4565g

Rodders53

Or use https://www.toolstation.com/tap-tail-adaptors/p14081 for 15mm or use washing machine style isolator valves!
Also available in 3/8 for some Euro size flexi tails.

I hate "plumbers" that feel the need to use a compound on compression fittings.  It's impossible to clean off and really not necessary.  Almost as bad as those that use ptfe tape on 'em.   New olives are inexpensive.

Jeepers_Creepers

Rodders53 said:

I hate "plumbers" that feel the need to use a compound on compression fittings.  It's impossible to clean off and really not necessary.  Almost as bad as those that use ptfe tape on 'em.   New olives are inexpensive.

Have to say, I always apply a thin smear of Fernox Hawk on the threads and on the pipe end before sliding on the olive - and then transfer that smear over the olive. It's a minimal amount, but the smear on the threads in particular allows the fitting to be done up with little effort and max smoothness. You only have to hear a dry brass fitting screech once before you'll never do it again...