New no-name or used EGR valve?

JustAnotherSaver

My point is there's plenty of phrases people use to suit their argument.

"you get what you pay for"... Well no not always. Should we all always pay top dollar? We don't actually have to. I've bought not just car parts but other things where the quality of the item was decent enough and did the job at a fraction of the cost.

The million dollar (or rather £35) question is whether it will be decent enough, or not.

If it should be then there's no point in spending that extra £35. If chances are it'll last no more than a weekend then may as well spend the extra.

Like with people who have their turbos that go. I remember my brother on his MK4 Golf got a £1500 part quote from VW. In the end he got a non VW turbo for I think it was about 700-800. Did the job fine enough and lasted until he sold it a couple year later.

Saved himself 700-800 that he didn't need to actually spend. 

forgotmyname

The only way to know if the £35 part is something fit for the purpose or fit for the bin is to waste your money on it.

Non VW Turbo for £700-£800 probably a decent brand, maybe even the same brand that VW fit.

You can get turbo's way cheaper, several car channels on youtube have bought very cheap chinese made turbos

and they are mostly junk. Some had castings that were porous right from the start or out of balance so the bearings

only lasted a short time.  These were often quite a bit less than $200 (yeah mostly US channels).

Goudy,   how does a hole stop dirty exhaust gas passing through?   Smaller hole = higher gas speed = same quantity.

Goudy

forgotmyname said:

Goudy,   how does a hole stop dirty exhaust gas passing through?   Smaller hole = higher gas speed = same quantity.

If you presume the gas has no where else to go, then that would be correct. Put simply gases (and fluids) always move towards lower pressure and if that is through the EGR, that is where it will go.

If the gas does have another route out and that is lower in pressure than the intake side via the EGR, then that is where it will go.

Luckily it does have another route out, the exhaust system.

There are some fluctuations in pressure in both the intake and exhaust side of the system depending on load on the engine, but the original EGR design is large enough in diameter to overcome these and allow enough gases into the intake.

Take your foot of the gas and the inlet changes from positive to negative pressure, the valve opens and the lower pressure on the inlet side causes the gases to flow that way.

So if you can alter the pressure to make the exhaust side slightly lower in pressure than the intake side, gases will flow out the exhaust.

By restricting the diameter of the EGR you increase the pressure and the gas will flow out the lower pressure route, the exhaust system.

You don't have to block it completely to divert the gas, you just need to alter the pressure enough so the gas follows the lowest pressure route.

JustAnotherSaver

Well it turns out (other thread) that the actuator was not at fault with my coil light coming on and zero boost. So probably the turbo then. Unless I've bought a duff second hand actuator (possible) but still, from the symptoms and scenarios it was worth a punt. I'm sure someone will link it in with the £35 mentioned above.

Have had suggestions of some pressure sensor being a likely culprit though with all online chat pointing towards the turbo then that's where I'll look.

Not sure how folk drilled in without removing their fuel filter as the 4mm bit I bought could onky get in at an angle so the 6.8mm would have no chance, so I'll have to go that route and hope for the best.

Oh and posted that here too because someone suggested it could be the EGR causing that fault. I'm still going with turbo though since that's where the numbers are.