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Help with drilled hole slightly off

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Comments

  • The width of a standard door can’t be much more than about 3cm so you’ve either drilled out the other side of the door (which you’d know about) or the hole has a depth of significantly less than 2cm. I’d be concerned about that being above to hold the weight of anything substantial, not least a gym bag...
    Northern Ireland club member No 382 :j
  • getmore4less
    getmore4less Posts: 46,882 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper I've helped Parliament
    Rather than bolting stuff to hollow  doors we have gone with the hangers.

    you can change/move them easy  and no real problem with weight.

  • Rony
    Rony Posts: 160 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 10 March 2021 at 1:14PM
    Okay guys. I have figured out a way to measure the thickness of the door. I have used a paperclip and made a small L shape at the end.

    First of all, my doors are 4.5cm thick in total. My place is a new-build flat, maybe they are using thicker doors nowadays?

    Using the paperclip, i was able to determine the thickness before it become hollow is about 2cm (give or take).
    So if that is on both sides that must mean the hollow bit inside is only 0.5cm thick.

    The length of the nail to go in is about 3.5cm, however 1.5cm will be that of the washer screw thing (so only 2cm)

    This  mean if I nail the screw straight in, it will be perfect length such that it won't even reach the hollow part (or just about anyways)

    @Jeepers_Creepers Thanks for your post! The hanger is very tight so I don't think there is much room for moving and angling. 
    I have bought matchsticks, but I need to use a few to fill the hole but then there are gaps. So I decided to buy 5mm thick dowels which are due to arrive today! I also bought some wood glue. Sowhat I'm going to do it to fill the hole with the dowel and glue. Then just drive the screw in directly afterwards!

    Many thanks

  • getmore4less
    getmore4less Posts: 46,882 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper I've helped Parliament
    Do new build flats have fire resistant internal doors these days?
  • Rony said:
    Okay guys. I have figured out a way to measure the thickness of the door. I have used a paperclip and made a small L shape at the end.

    First of all, my doors are 4.5cm thick in total. My place is a new-build flat, maybe they are using thicker doors nowadays?

    Using the paperclip, i was able to determine the thickness before it become hollow is about 2cm (give or take).
    So if that is on both sides that must mean the hollow bit inside is only 0.5cm thick.

    The length of the nail to go in is about 3.5cm, however 1.5cm will be that of the washer screw thing (so only 2cm)

    This  mean if I nail the screw straight in, it will be perfect length such that it won't even reach the hollow part (or just about anyways)

    @Jeepers_Creepers Thanks for your post! The hanger is very tight so I don't think there is much room for moving and angling. 
    I have bought matchsticks, but I need to use a few to fill the hole but then there are gaps. So I decided to buy 5mm thick dowels which are due to arrive today! I also bought some wood glue. Sowhat I'm going to do it to fill the hole with the dowel and glue. Then just drive the screw in directly afterwards!

    Many thanks


    Nice thick doors, then! I wonder if they are 'fire' as gm4l suggests?

    Either way, that's a nice thickness so it means you do not need plastic plugs or anything else. In future, just drill a 'pilot' hole.

    Do you have a set of drill bits? Cool. Look closely at the screw you plan to use. It has a tapering shaft (well, tapers at the tip anyway) which has a thread spiralling a round it. Choose a drill bit that's the same diameter or slightly less than the shaft - hold the drill tight in front of the screw and squint at it...

    If the material is hard, the pilot hole will make it easier to screw in to, and also make the material less likely to split - if, say, it's at the end of a piece of timber. It'll also guide the screw in nice and straight.

    If you were doing this job from scratch again, then the simplest way would be to mark through the mounting holes to leave exact circles, use something like a punch or nail or sharp screwdriver - pretty much anything - to make wee dents right bang in the middle of the circles, and then sit the pilot drill in the dink there and drill away. (It's easier to get the dead centre of the circles by pressing a sharp point at them than it is to hope the drill bit doesn't 'wander'...)

    Since you are going for a 'dowel' fix - good idea, you are now acting like a pro... - the thing to do would be to drill a 5mm hole where the error is (unless the plastic plug hole is already this size), and then coat the dowel with PVA and tap it fully home. Get it flush so's you don't need to trim it afterwards (that'd be hard to do unless you have a sharp chisel or summat). But do check - again by comparing them - that the dowels are 5mm (that's pretty small)

    Allow to dry fully - overnight. Then reposition the hanger and pretend you're starting from scratch - mark through, teeny dent, pilot drill, screw.
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