Range Tribune Combi Boiler Not Heating Water / Rads - HELP!

Tallerdave

Mister_G said:

Yes, shame really, as swapping out the actuator really would be a much simpler and cheaper job.

From the photos, one of them looks more accessible than the other! I assume Drayton actuators can be changed without a drain down? 

Two thoughts come to mind looking at the photos - the wiring centre stuck to the hot tank is weird, and what's the orange thing high up at the back?

Tallerdave

Mister_G said:

Yes, shame really, as swapping out the actuator really would be a much simpler and cheaper job.

From the photos, one of them looks more accessible than the other! I assume Drayton actuators can be changed without a drain down? 

Two thoughts come to mind looking at the photos - the wiring centre stuck to the hot tank is weird, and what's the orange thing high up at the back?

Mister_G

Yes, the actuator can be changed without a drain down (same as the later Honeywells).  However, who ever put the one on the right with the actuator up against the pipe didn't give it much thought!

The "orange thing" appears to be an actuator for a damper.  Not sure what for?
belimodatasheet

Sharons1987

Mister_G said:

Yes, the actuator can be changed without a drain down (same as the later Honeywells).  However, who ever put the one on the right with the actuator up against the pipe didn't give it much thought!

The "orange thing" appears to be an actuator for a damper.  Not sure what for?
belimodatasheet

The orange thing up top is one of these https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/belimo-lrf230-rotary-actuator-230v/ no idea what it’s for bit on turning on or off at the main it’s makes an ungodly whirring house for about 15 seconds as the dial moves from the bottom to the top or vice versatile.

a new addition to the puzzle, I’ve had everything off at the mains as with the fuse box etc in there tbh I’m terrified of a leak or overheating or whatever (maybe I’m over worrying I just haven’t a clue on any of this) but popped on for 15 mins today just in case to keep system ticking over (?!) after 10 mins of hot water on water was flowing through the tundish which has never happened before and also there was some weeping from the filling loop (also new). Also on turning it back on there was a leak from one of the pipes going up into where the heat exchanger is (leak stopped soon as system running) In a panic I turned all of again completely and have left it since - that was about 4 hours ago - pipes all gone cold now with exception of one on top which is still warm (coming from the expansion vessel). What could be causing the tundish action to kick in - the overheating? 

sorry lot of info I know!!

Sharons1987

Tallerdave said:

Mister_G said:

Yes, shame really, as swapping out the actuator really would be a much simpler and cheaper job.

From the photos, one of them looks more accessible than the other! I assume Drayton actuators can be changed without a drain down? 

Two thoughts come to mind looking at the photos - the wiring centre stuck to the hot tank is weird, and what's the orange thing high up at the back?

Sorry when you say the wiring centre stuck to tank is weird what do you mean / which bit? Thanks again!

Tallerdave

Sharons1987 said:

Tallerdave said:

Mister_G said:

Yes, shame really, as swapping out the actuator really would be a much simpler and cheaper job.

From the photos, one of them looks more accessible than the other! I assume Drayton actuators can be changed without a drain down? 

Two thoughts come to mind looking at the photos - the wiring centre stuck to the hot tank is weird, and what's the orange thing high up at the back?

Sorry when you say the wiring centre stuck to tank is weird what do you mean / which bit? Thanks again!

It's the rectangular white thing with wires coming out of it at the bottom of the tank. It's not a problem, just struck me as weird, I've only ever seen them screwed to the wall.

The leaks are a bit worrying. Is the filling loop open? It shouldn't be.  Perhaps the pressure is too high and opening the relief valve? You definitely need the engineer back

Sharons1987

Tallerdave said:

Sharons1987 said:

Tallerdave said:

Mister_G said:

Yes, shame really, as swapping out the actuator really would be a much simpler and cheaper job.

From the photos, one of them looks more accessible than the other! I assume Drayton actuators can be changed without a drain down? 

Two thoughts come to mind looking at the photos - the wiring centre stuck to the hot tank is weird, and what's the orange thing high up at the back?

Sorry when you say the wiring centre stuck to tank is weird what do you mean / which bit? Thanks again!

It's the rectangular white thing with wires coming out of it at the bottom of the tank. It's not a problem, just struck me as weird, I've only ever seen them screwed to the wall.

The leaks are a bit worrying. Is the filling loop open? It shouldn't be.  Perhaps the pressure is too high and opening the relief valve? You definitely need the engineer back

No the loops are closed! Yes soon as I saw the water and the leaks I suspected more at play than just the actuator! Thankfully I found someone who’ll come out with no fallout fee and do a diagnostic so we can sort everything not just straight to valve replacement as the other guy suggested! 

One question is there anything flagged there that would need access to the boiler or anything outside of what I can see? Just wanted to be prepared and not limit his diagnostic if need to alert building manager of access to anywhere else?

Tallerdave

It looks as if it's all there. Ask the new engineer talk you through everything (e.g What's the orange actuator for? How to check system pressure? What shouldit be? Etc) and make sure the system works fully - hot water only, heating only, hot water & heating together, hot water thermostat, heating thermostat, mains switches etc.

As an example of why it's important to fully test the system, in the last place we rented we couldn't get any hot water unless the heating was on. Someone had incorrectly wired up the motorised valve connections in the wiring centre. A few minutes diagnosis and I fixed the wiring.  The previous tenants had obviously used the immersion for hot water - which explained why the electricity supplier kept insisting our consumption was going to be astronomical. 

Sharons1987

Tallerdave said:

It looks as if it's all there. Ask the new engineer talk you through everything (e.g What's the orange actuator for? How to check system pressure? What shouldit be? Etc) and make sure the system works fully - hot water only, heating only, hot water & heating together, hot water thermostat, heating thermostat, mains switches etc.

As an example of why it's important to fully test the system, in the last place we rented we couldn't get any hot water unless the heating was on. Someone had incorrectly wired up the motorised valve connections in the wiring centre. A few minutes diagnosis and I fixed the wiring.  The previous tenants had obviously used the immersion for hot water - which explained why the electricity supplier kept insisting our consumption was going to be astronomical. 

Thank you!! Yes that’s exactly what I want to do happy to pay for their time explaining too - I suspect previous owner never looked at this as thermostat was sat for a good 10 hours a day total for both so I imagine it’s been perma on for a long time and just never realised!

im just terrified of anything gas not being right and overheating and exploding (or a leak happening in the night so near a fuse box)

probably a ridiculous worry but it’s my first place I’ve owned and on my own so all brand new to me!

thank you both for your guidance and time it’s been invaluable!!

Sharons1987

Hi there 

just wanted to update! A new engineer and £530 later 😭 a whole ton of things were replaced - 2 x valve actuators, expansion vessel which failed, PRV which failed, strainer (which it turned out had been removed and never put back in - no wonder the heat exchanger was filthy) and all tested and working! 

But I have two weird happenings now... wondering if normal ?? Really don’t have any more money left now to get someone in again so hoping some can help

1. Eng advised all working fine but question re the water temp - is it overheating if the water temp is super hot (53c with meat thermometer) despite the cylinder thermostat set to only 45? 

2. What does the click on the cylinder thermostat mean /do? I ask as it was set to 45 by eng as it clicked there ... all fine until today put the CH on not on timed just on/on ... all powered up and valves opened but no heat to rads, moved the cylinder thermostat which clicked in at 55 abs then heat came through!?
3. Have strange thing where If I leave all off for say a day as don’t need heat, there is weeping from this part just above the bypass valve? This only happens when left off... why might this be? Now I’m a situ where I’ve spent £1100 and am still afraid to have on in case overheating and off in case it leaks (the drip is also right above the fuse box so a bit terrifying)

any thoughts / help very welcome @tlTallerdave @Mister_G