Range Tribune Combi Boiler Not Heating Water / Rads - HELP!

Mister_G

If it's just the actuator rather than the whole valve, then this is a pretty simple job that really shouldn't take more than an hour. Parts no more than £50 (actually about £30)

If the valve has jammed (may have done with all the sludge) then that will need a system drain down to replace the whole valve.  Even still, that shouldn't take a decent plumber more than a couple of hours as yours looks pretty accessible.  Parts maybe £100 max. (actually about £55)

Sharons1987

Tallerdave said:

A quick Google shows the actuator is £30-£40, so it sounds pricey. Maybe phone around for a couple of quotes?

thank you! hes suggested two hours work and 90pounds to replace whole valve not just actuator (so need to drain system also he mentioned) That seems excessive to me if it is just the microswitcher as the valve itself appears fine (movesfreely etc but maby im wrong). have reached out to see if can get anyone as currently the heat levels are so insanely hot on pipes and rads im afraid to put anything on so am day 5 of a freeeezing house! thanks again for your time for this newbie!

Tallerdave

Sharons1987 said:

Tallerdave said:

A quick Google shows the actuator is £30-£40, so it sounds pricey. Maybe phone around for a couple of quotes?

thank you! hes suggested two hours work and 90pounds to replace whole valve not just actuator (so need to drain system also he mentioned) That seems excessive to me if it is just the microswitcher as the valve itself appears fine (movesfreely etc but maby im wrong). have reached out to see if can get anyone as currently the heat levels are so insanely hot on pipes and rads im afraid to put anything on so am day 5 of a freeeezing house! thanks again for your time for this newbie!

OK, I think it's a gamble as to whether you do the whole valve with the associated cost of draining the system or just the actuator head.  The problem's been diagnosed as the microswitch sticking, which is hopefully purely an actuator fault, but if the valve's a bit sticky under load it could be contributing to the fault.

If it was me, I'd be getting a £30 actuator off ebay and fitting it myself.  Then if that didn't work I'd be paying an expert to do the drain/valve job.  But there's mains voltage going through these things so you musn't touch it yourself unless you're confident isolating the mains and working on mains voltage wiring.

The final option is perhaps to shop around and see what best price you can get "for cash" just to do the actuator?

Mister_G

As the actuator and the valve are available separately, I'd suggest just trying replacing the actuator first.  As you say, If the valve moves freely that it's likely to be OK.

Changing out the actuator is the sort of job that a competent handyman who has a knowledge of electrics should be able to do.

(I know I've just upset a few qualified electricians now!) 

Sharons1987

thank you @Tallerdave and @Mister_G - when i say microswitch diagnosed, thats my guess based on him taking a quick look and showing there was a live feed to the circuit when the thermostat was set to off. He didnt actually open or check the actuator itself just went off that and advised swapping the whole lot! should he have had a look first to make a more thorough diagnosis? My worry is as he didnt really look at the whole system i may shell out 350 only to find this wasnt the only / actual problem? Or am i being too picky and should trust his word?

Tallerdave

Sharons1987 said:

thank you @Tallerdave and @Mister_G - when i say microswitch diagnosed, thats my guess based on him taking a quick look and showing there was a live feed to the circuit when the thermostat was set to off. He didnt actually open or check the actuator itself just went off that and advised swapping the whole lot! should he have had a look first to make a more thorough diagnosis? My worry is as he didnt really look at the whole system i may shell out 350 only to find this wasnt the only / actual problem? Or am i being too picky and should trust his word?

Hard to say - I would guess that he's right.  If there was no live from the thermostat but there's live coming out of the actuator then it would look like an actuator fault.  The only thing that puzzles me is that usually the microswitch circuit simply loops through the live "call for heat" that comes from the thermostat, so it is a bit strange.  However, I've only ever diagnosed Honeywell valve issues, so have no idea how yours works.

Mister_G

Yes, I've got lots of experience of Honeywell valves too!  It's usually either been the motor burnt out (it's actually powered all the time, even in its stall condition) or the microswitches have failed.

Sharons1987

thank you @Tallerdave and @Mister_G, he returned today as forgot a tool, i did ask whether the thermostat on the wall could be the issue / worth checking first but he said well i didnt check that as wasnt part of previous job and then reiterated your valve is faulty needs replacing so it seems hes essentially saying ill replace the valves take it or leave it, beyond that i wont look to diagnose anymore .... so i guess ill just have to take the chance and the financial hit and hope for the best (nobody else is coming back at all with quotes to compare, must be busy season ) thanks again! (at least he wants to swap out the danfoss for honeywell which should be better quality long term anyway)

Tallerdave

It does look as if you're going to have to trust his intuition!

Mister_G

Yes, shame really, as swapping out the actuator really would be a much simpler and cheaper job.