Cant remove key from locked door

Our metal front door has a Winkhaus multipoint locking system (the type where you lift the handle to engage the latches (a deadbolt and two hooks) and turn the key to then lock them) and since yesterday after locking the door the key wont come out. Key will come out when the door is unlocked, we have the same problem with both sides of the door and also if you lock the door with it being physically open.

When locking the door it feels as if the key is fractionally off vertical but wont turn that last 1-2 degrees. I have taken the cylinder out and when not in the door the key turns it 360 degrees without problem. I've ordered a new cylinder anyway as it was on my to do list since we bought the place and especially after seeing that the existing one has no anti-snap protection etc. Given the cylinder will fully turn when out the door I think that may not solve it.

I see you can buy just a replacement "gear box" for circa £60 or a full setup for £100 but I am concerned about everything lining up especially as the hooks we have look different to the ones available now. There are other brands that claim to be "universal" that are cheaper but not sure how true that is. To replace just the gear box it seems you need to remove the existing rivets and put new ones in. I'm also confused how the central gear box drives the separate latches (hooks in our case) as they don't appear obviously connected other than rivetted to the same faceplate which is screwed into the door. Again, concerned that newer or other brands may not work with the hooks.
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Comments

  • frogglet
    frogglet Posts: 773 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 15 January 2021 at 11:37AM
    Our door did that when it was locked from the outside with a key on the inside. 
    The first time I replaced the barrel, i just took the barrel to a local shop.  The second time I found a video on line showing how to remove it, which was very simple there were two screws on the edge of the door.
    It  also showed how to reset the barrel once it was out. 
    I cant take photos as we dont live there now.
  • Sandtree
    Sandtree Posts: 10,628 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Fourth Anniversary Name Dropper
    I've already taken the barrel/cylinder our of the door, as you say its only held in by a single long screw so easy to do, and when its out the door the actuator turns freely 360 degrees with the key so I am guessing the problem is somewhere else.

    I will replace the cylinder anyway because the current one has no signs of anti-snap or anti-drill protection plus who knows how many people have owned the property and may still have keys to it etc but I am suspecting that isnt going to be the cause of the problem.
  • Hi,
    can you remove the gearbox and give it a clean out?
  • Jeepers_Creepers
    Jeepers_Creepers Posts: 4,339 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 15 January 2021 at 12:30PM
    I suspect the issue might be that the 'hooks' are not able to travel the full up/down distance when they engage in their slots, so the lock isn't able to turn that final wee bit simply because the 'handle-lift' part of the process hasn't been carried out fully.

    Does one hook move up and one down? I suspect one of them isn't managing that last mm or two. The likeliest cause - if this is the actual issue - is that the door has settled a bit and is fractionally lower or not sitting as square as before. That, I think, would also suggest it's the lowest 'hook' wot's the problem (if it engages downwards).

    You can try taking accurate measurements to see if there's anything obvious - open the door, lock it so's the hooks do their bit, and then shut the door against the door frame. Mark in pencil (you could always apply masking tape first) where the sides of that hook end up (I don't mean the hook tip, but the shaft - that's more likely the cause) and continue that line to the slot. Does it look as tho' the slot side is potentially too high or low to allow that last bit of movement?

    Do the slot plates have adjustments on them - sometimes you can slacken them off and move them a small amount? If not, can you even remove the plate completely to test the theory?
  • TELLIT01
    TELLIT01 Posts: 17,823 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper PPI Party Pooper
    Have you tried spraying everywhere you can access with WD40.  That can fix many problems, at least in the short term.
  • Sandtree
    Sandtree Posts: 10,628 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Fourth Anniversary Name Dropper
    I suspect the issue might be that the 'hooks' are not able to travel the full up/down distance when they engage in their slots, so the lock isn't able to turn that final wee bit simply because the 'handle-lift' part of the process hasn't been carried out fully. 
    This was my original thinking too which is why I tried locking the door with the door open so there would be nothing to stop either the hooks or the deadbolt extending but I have the same problem with the door open too. If the hooks arent engaging fully its an issue with the hooks themselves and not an alignment to the bars they hook onto. I cannot remember off hand if they move in opposite directions or not, I think they both go down.

    When the door previously hasnt been closed properly the lever only lifts so far rather than to fully vertical at which point your cannot turn the key much at all and the door doesnt lock. Right now the lever can be lifted fully (door closed or open) and the key turned 99% of the way round and it does lock the door just the key won't come out.

    can you remove the gearbox and give it a clean out?
    I need to double check but as standard the gearbox is riveted to the faceplate and a sealed unit. Having received a "product identification form" from Winkhaus it does include the option of gearboxes and latches being screwed to the faceplate so will need to see this evening.

    TELLIT01 said:
    Have you tried spraying everywhere you can access with WD40.  That can fix many problems, at least in the short term.
    Picking up the new cylinder this afternoon so will get some lubricant into the mechanism whilst the cylinder is out.
  • Niv
    Niv Posts: 2,552 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I had a similar issue where I could not use the key from the outside. I sprayed WD40 (Other brands are available) in the barrel and it has worked ever since.
    YNWA

    Target: Mortgage free by 58.
  • Sorry, Sandtree - I misread that part in your opening post - it's the same with the door open? Stumped, then - it could just be normal wear, so there's too much 'play' in the locking mech, levers and links.
  • Sandtree
    Sandtree Posts: 10,628 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Fourth Anniversary Name Dropper
    Replaced the cylinder anyway as the old one had no security features at all and we're the 5th or so owner and so possibly a few others had keys.

    After removing the old cylinder used some WD40 into the gearbox in the space and then put in the new cylinder. Initially thought it hadn't worked as couldnt get the key out but then realised that with the new lock the key comes out when horizontal rather than vertical. No idea which of the two actions solved the problem but at least its now working and a much better lock in place. Now just need need to remember to put the key in sideways 
  • Good result.
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