Draughty interior door to integral garage - how to insulate?

ninjaef

My hallway is freeeezin'. Had a new interior 'Cheshire Oak' solid wood door fitted, replacing the door that goes from the hall into the integral garage. Had this work done when I moved in summertime last year when lockdown rules were relaxed. Anyway, no cold snap since then. But now, the hallway is like 10C. I can feel cold coming in around the door. I've tried that sticky foam stuff from B&Q and put it around the frame, no joy, tried two runs of it, still no joy. Also tried the stuff with hairs/brush along the strip. Tried thicker foam (8mm) too. All in all I either couldn't shut the door, the sticky stuff came off, or it just did not work. At sort of £7 a roll and several different types of rolls, I'm wasting money here.
Need something more intelligent I guess.   Ideally something more adhesive, or screw fit, or something.

Any ideas good folk - please?

spinspiral

just to let you know how i solved the problem.
I had a part garage conversion and knowing it would be cold between room and garage did a two door system. Insulated cavity wall with Fire door opening into garage and pvc double glazed  door opening into room. Warm as toast!
Of course, will depend on your set up budget!

FreeBear

ninjaef said: My hallway is freeeezin'. Had a new interior 'Cheshire Oak' solid wood door fitted, replacing the door that goes from the hall into the integral garage.

Any door between the main house and a garage should be a fire resistant door complete with an automatic closer. The frame also needs to be appropriately rated. For insurance purposes, the door should also be fitted with a decent locking mechanism suitable for an exterior door.

A good quality fire door will provide a fair degree of insulation, so shouldn't be excessively cold - I'd suggest getting yourself an infrared thermometer or borrowing a thermal imaging camera. either will help to identify the cold spot.

glennevis

I've put up a door curtain on mine. Also added a strip of carpet offcut across the full width to stop the cold sneaking in through that gap.

neilmcl

https://www.screwfix.com/c/security-ironmongery/seals-draught-excluders/cat840958

DPR87

Turn the garage light on and close the door. Stand in the hallway with it being dark. Check around sides, top and bottom for any light. Any light you can see is where draught is coming through. I sealed it with rubber strips and a door strip at the bottom. Also used stormguard aluminium around door seal.

Helped a lot with mine

EssexExile

Shouldn't it be a fire door with intumescent strips sealing around it?

ninjaef

FreeBear said:

ninjaef said: My hallway is freeeezin'. Had a new interior 'Cheshire Oak' solid wood door fitted, replacing the door that goes from the hall into the integral garage.

Any door between the main house and a garage should be a fire resistant door complete with an automatic closer. The frame also needs to be appropriately rated. For insurance purposes, the door should also be fitted with a decent locking mechanism suitable for an exterior door.

A good quality fire door will provide a fair degree of insulation, so shouldn't be excessively cold - I'd suggest getting yourself an infrared thermometer or borrowing a thermal imaging camera. either will help to identify the cold spot.

Ah, great advice. Yes it is a fire door and frame , as per when it was built from new 10 years ago. The old door never had a closing mechanism and we have all documentation and sign-off + NHBC certificates and all safety records. Never ever any mention of a closing door. None of the other houses here have that either. The "cold spot" is the entire hallway, the door is cold to the touch. It's a howdens fire door solid wood.
.

ninjaef

DPR87 said:

Turn the garage light on and close the door. Stand in the hallway with it being dark. Check around sides, top and bottom for any light. Any light you can see is where draught is coming through. I sealed it with rubber strips and a door strip at the bottom. Also used stormguard aluminium around door seal.

Helped a lot with mine

Brilliant idea - so obvious , dumb me. Yes, it's still letting light in. I god some 'P' profile adhesive rubber seal 3-5mm but in some places the door is so so tight to this, in others I can see light. So the door is not true - it took the joiner a long time to fit it ! Ooops. So I need something to fix this , where some gaps are 1 to 2mm, some are - I would say - 7mm and particularly around the faceplate where the deadlock goes.

DPR87 said:

Turn the garage light on and close the door. Stand in the hallway with it being dark. Check around sides, top and bottom for any light. Any light you can see is where draught is coming through. I sealed it with rubber strips and a door strip at the bottom. Also used stormguard aluminium around door seal.

Helped a lot with mine

Brilliant idea - so obvious , dumb me. Yes, it's still letting light in. I god some 'P' profile adhesive rubber seal 3-5mm but in some places the door is so so tight to this, in others I can see light. So the door is not true - it took the joiner a long time to fit it ! Ooops. So I need something to fix this , where some gaps are 1 to 2mm, some are - I would say - 7mm and particularly around the faceplate where the deadlock goes.glennevis said:

I've put up a door curtain on mine. Also added a strip of carpet offcut across the full width to stop the cold sneaking in through that gap.

What, across the whole door on the garage side? I like the idea of old carptet - I got plenty.