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Water Pipes
Comments
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And have you tested the water flow at the hedge connection? Ie, do you know for sure the issue is between your hedge and your house, or could it be between your hedge and the WB's supply?
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It isnt 2ms, the bathroom is the middle window where the water goes in as I previously stated, we would have to cut the steps and atleast 6ms of the path, so porbably a job for another day dont you think? How deep under the path would it be another 2-3 metres down, What would we us an angle grinder?Jeepers_Creepers said:Looks like you are almost there? So you may need to cut through a concrete path, that ain't the end of the world.For the sake of 2m max, you'd really install a pump?Can you get under your floor at all?
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Fair do's, diz.Can you get under your floor? If so, the pipe can come in closer to that corner and then continue to where it needs to go - the bathroom, kitchen or utility room. Once in under the floor, lag it thoroughly.But, yes, it would still need some work, and an angle grinder would give the neatest cut to the path. I doubt it'll go deep enough, tho', so you'd probably have to continue with an SDS hammer drill. Ie, use the A-G to make the two neat cuts, and then drill/hammer the material away. (You can but a good SDS drill from £50 - brilliant tools).However, if you want to delay all that, you could fit your mains booster pump assuming you have a combi boiler? Seems a waste of £200, tho'.And you still haven't tested the supply where it first comes on to your property :-)1
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Jeepers_Creepers said:Fair do's, diz.Can you get under your floor? If so, the pipe can come in closer to that corner and then continue to where it needs to go - the bathroom, kitchen or utility room. Once in under the floor, lag it thoroughly.But, yes, it would still need some work, and an angle grinder would give the neatest cut to the path. I doubt it'll go deep enough, tho', so you'd probably have to continue with an SDS hammer drill. Ie, use the A-G to make the two neat cuts, and then drill/hammer the material away. (You can but a good SDS drill from £50 - brilliant tools).However, if you want to delay all that, you could fit your mains booster pump assuming you have a combi boiler? Seems a waste of £200, tho'.And you still haven't tested the supply where it first comes on to your property :-)Ah, I see what you mean we could just run it to the first window (Kitchen) with the new pipe, that probably would work, (plus there is no stopcock in the house at all so could install there). The main pipe that runs from the kitchen to the bathroom is visibel from the kirchen (under the sink) Im not sure how easy it would be to stop the other pile though. I might investigate some more though now and update you.Yes I havent tested the supply at the start yet as because its the new pipe etc, I didnt know how easy it was to take apart agian, I take it, it is? Ill have a go in a bit.Thanks a lot0
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Yes, these fittings are all hand tight. Totally understand you don't want to do this in the cold and wet weather :-)Based on what you say, I think I'd definitely take it in nearer that corner, and if that's the kitchen then, well, that's a no-brainer; that's where folk expect the stopcock to be (and make it a full-bore LEVER valve when you get that far - quick quarter-turn offski.)Yes you'll need to dig down adjacent to the wall and then drill through to get in to the foundation void, but that's a darn sight easier than going all the way to the bathroom.What's more, I bet that when you dig down there a couple of feet to get to the required depth, you'll be in normal soil and there is every chance you'll also be able to dig a horizontal tunnel from your existing trench to meet it, under that path - you'd only have to travel a metre or so?Finally, when all this is done, where the existing pipe comes up through the floor in that bathroom, you just cut that off and cap the 'house' end.1
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Hi, sorry for delay, but with Christmas etc, certain things have come up. I also haven't continued as there is going to be more problems I suspect, please see the pictures, these drain covers have a large pipe going to the septic tank, which runs along the path so one, it would be difficulty to go across it maybe, and two we think the original pipe runs parallel to it on the hedge side and will still go in on the bathroom, so a bit up in the air at the moment unless you have any suggestions?
First picture
Red is where the waterpipe is coming from the hedge
Green is where we think it continues all the way to the bathroom
Blue is the two circled drain covers with roughly the pipe going between them.
Second picture
Red is where you suggested putting the new pipe acroos to the house and the corner of the kitchen.
Blue is the drain cover nearest the steps same as above.
Green is still where we think the water pipe goes.
If you need more pics please ask. Thanks again.

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I'm a layman, Diz, so anything I say has to be taken in that light.If you are DIYing this job, then you are right to be wary of crossing an existing sewer unless you are being very careful. Also there are regs about the required depths of mains water so that they cannot be damaged and there's no risk of them freezing - is it 750mm? Having said that, they are a bit Draconian, so it's your call whether to pursue a shallower option (but don't tell anyone).If you lift these manhole covers, you'll know what depth the sewer runs at. Also, you'll know where they run. I'm guessing that the 'bottom' MH is the start, and is picking up from the bathroom? It then goes 'north' to the other manhole - where it might pick up a further pipe from the left - and then heads off to wherever. But that's a guess. But that would mean that you (a) need to go across (above or below) that sewer pipe, or else you need to runs your new mains pipe further 'south', so it goes this side of the bathroom manhole.So, if you are happy that you can go under that sewer - ie by digging holes either side of it and then drilling a narrow bore horizontally betwixt them - then you could consider running the pipe along the right of the path as shown in your pics in that 'soil' area, and then cutting across - under or on this side of - the sewer pipe wherever you want, either to the kitchen or bathroom.I really can't suggest anything more as I haven't a clue where these pipes are. In general, tho', I think you are talking about digging a hole in the path tight against the house, and another to the right of the path in that soil, and then burrowing a narrow bore between them. You also need to ensure you can drill through the house wall to get in to the underfloor void.You'd do all the 'groundwork' and lay the new pipe all the way to your house (and through the wall) and back to the hedge before doing any actual connecting. You wouldn't do it in stages - you'd make sure you have a full path that'll work before you commit yourself to the changeover.If the pipe has to be shallower than spec'd at the path, then make sure it's super-lagged and super-protected :-)1
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Thanks for all your help mate, we've covered the pipe a bit for the winter then going to have another go when its warmer. The last thing im going to do today is check the flow at the hedge as I didnt do that where the water comes in. Ill update if anything new come to light.
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Don't blame you!It would be good to know the flow at the hedge.1
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Yeah its 8.5 ltrs which is really low, but I only used the way I was advised in here by holding the bucket for 15 seconds is that the best way to know?
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