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Torque specs - specifically MK3 Mondeo for now but is there an online database?

JustAnotherSaver
Posts: 6,709 Forumite


in Motoring
Or something offline that you can order that doesn't cost a wedge?
I can't really follow Haynes how tos as i learn much better by seeing than reading so these days i get my how tos off pooling forums and YouTube - so i don't really want to buy a Haynes just for torque specs.
Asking online is kind of annoying as for anything super low it's always a "nip it up, just finger tight" and anything that's a bit more force it's "hand tight and then a quarter turn". Yeah, super helpful.
I 'nipped up' my radiator in the living room once. Thankfully we had just moved in and it was exposed floorboards so when the piping bent and water was gushing everywhere and i didn't know what to do and ended up calling an emergency plumber, it wasn't such a big deal. These days i don't 'nip up' anything any more. I have torque wrenches so if there's a setting then i'd rather use that than 'nipping up'.
I just wondered if there was a known database for cars in general or a named database that could be bought?
Bit of a long shot but you don't get if you don't ask. I'll be removing the EGR and manifold soon so thought i'd try get the figures in advance.
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You cannot follow haynes torque figures not much point posting them in the same format then?
Cannot think of anything in the Haynes that says just nip it up.
Yes there is a database that covers every car, but its by subscription and not cheap. Haynes also sell the same data
that gives you estimated job times and torque figures etc.
The figures online will be the exact same format as in the manual. Lots of jobs need xx torque and then a further xx degrees.
Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...0 -
Dont forget most torque figures are for dry threads. So if you have oil on the threads like a sump plug or you have put locktite on, then ease off the torque accordingly.
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forgotmyname said:You cannot follow haynes torque figures not much point posting them in the same format then?
Cannot think of anything in the Haynes that says just nip it up.Did you skim read my post? I know I put a bit in so I can forgive you for skim reading.I never said i can't follow torque figures. They are what they are. Set your torque wrench and done. I never said that.I also never said that Haynes manuals say nip it up. I specifically said where the reply of 'nip it up' comes from and it wasn't Haynes.EdGasketTheSecond said:Dont forget most torque figures are for dry threads. So if you have oil on the threads like a sump plug or you have put locktite on, then ease off the torque accordingly.Regards locktite differences - how do you know how much to ease off? As pointed out in a video i uploaded here, my engine mounts need looking at and wouldn't be surprised if they need replacing. Watching a how to on YouTube and it doesn't seem too hard but he applied locktite on the bolts he used.0 -
No I didn't skim read your post. Unless your torque wrench has been calibrated it could be anything upto 20% high or low anyway.
The torque figures will be bolts supplied by the manufacturer which will already have any thread lock applied if needed, it will be
in a dry state not a liquid these days.
EGR valve has 2 small bolts, use a 1/4" ratchet and keep your fingers close to the mechanism, dont use the handle to tighten,
they will snap if you sneeze too hard. Then you end up with a steel stud in a softer aluminium housing. what fun drilling those
out.
Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...0 -
forgotmyname said:No I didn't skim read your post.Oh ok. Just that i didn't say i can't follow torque figures or that Haynes told me to nip anything up.The nipping up comes from people online. A phrase that cost me £80. Clearly online folks nipping up wasn't my version of nipping up.Shift that to car related work and the same applies, whereas 50Nm is 50Nm. Ok the torque wrench may or may not be out by a little or a lot but i'd rather roll with that than any 'nipping up'. I've actually broken various things from "just a slight pull" "just tighten a bit" etc etc and i'm not even trying to make out like i'm He-Man or anything, far from it.0
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JustAnotherSaver said:I 'nipped up' my radiator in the living room once. Thankfully we had just moved in and it was exposed floorboards so when the piping bent and water was gushing everywhere
Seriously, to be bending 15mm copper doesn't take a lot, but it's definitely a chunk above a "nip up".0 -
AdrianC said:JustAnotherSaver said:I 'nipped up' my radiator in the living room once. Thankfully we had just moved in and it was exposed floorboards so when the piping bent and water was gushing everywhere
Seriously, to be bending 15mm copper doesn't take a lot, but it's definitely a chunk above a "nip up".
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JustAnotherSaver said:AdrianC said:JustAnotherSaver said:I 'nipped up' my radiator in the living room once. Thankfully we had just moved in and it was exposed floorboards so when the piping bent and water was gushing everywhere
Seriously, to be bending 15mm copper doesn't take a lot, but it's definitely a chunk above a "nip up".0 -
The EGR bolts probably take less torque than that before they snap, rather spindly. Plenty of room for standard 6mm
studs if you ever drill it out and tap a new thread in it.
Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...1 -
AdrianC said:JustAnotherSaver said:AdrianC said:JustAnotherSaver said:I 'nipped up' my radiator in the living room once. Thankfully we had just moved in and it was exposed floorboards so when the piping bent and water was gushing everywhere
Seriously, to be bending 15mm copper doesn't take a lot, but it's definitely a chunk above a "nip up".
Doesn't surprise me it's wafer thin stuff. Everything else in this house had been put together with the top priority of causing a problem so I shouldn't expect the central heating to be any different.1
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