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Advice on fixing Sleepers together?
JohnB47
Posts: 2,725 Forumite
We've just bought some timber sleepers - pretreated type and I'm wondering about fixing them together, at the right angle joints.
I'd prefer long bolt type fixings, perhaps stainless steel. I don't fancy brackets. I'm wondering about drill bit length, whether to countersink the heads etc.
I often find that, when you do things the first time, there are things you find out later that you should have considered.
So, any advice would be appreciated.
I'd prefer long bolt type fixings, perhaps stainless steel. I don't fancy brackets. I'm wondering about drill bit length, whether to countersink the heads etc.
I often find that, when you do things the first time, there are things you find out later that you should have considered.
So, any advice would be appreciated.
0
Comments
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Are you just doing one layer? If not, stagger the corners and drill a hexagonal timber screws [ up tp 200mm] through the two layers. You can still do that on the corners too on one layer if they are upright not flat.
Non me fac calcitrare tuum culi1 -
Can get assorted lengths up to 300mm from the likes of Screwfix. Countersunk, flat, or hex heads. For stainless steel, you'd need to look further afield and have deep pockets -- SS is twice the price and fewer options for head types.-taff said: a hexagonal timber screws [ up tp 200mm] through the two layers.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.2 -
Use 'rebar' as long nails.Most builders merchants (eg Jewson) sell rebar (the stuff used for reinforcing concrete) and some will cut it to length for you. 12mm dia is fine but you'll need to predrill the hole to the full length of the rebar. 10mm drill should be fine. Get the sleepers in position, drill the appropriate hole, bang in the rebar with a 4lb club hammer, maybe even a sledge hammer. Just don't expect to ever get it out again
PS: if you go the s/s coach screw route, be careful to also drill a suitable hole - not just a small pilot hole - because s/s screws and bolts are more easily sheared off when tightening than standard steel fixings.1 -
I didn't realise they went to that length, I'd only seen the 200..so thank youFreeBear said:
Can get assorted lengths up to 300mm from the likes of Screwfix. Countersunk, flat, or hex heads. For stainless steel, you'd need to look further afield and have deep pockets -- SS is twice the price and fewer options for head types.-taff said: a hexagonal timber screws [ up tp 200mm] through the two layers.
Non me fac calcitrare tuum culi0 -
Thanks for the ideas everyone. Perhaps SS is a bit over the top - I've now read that SS is best for Oak, where other types of screw can cause staining.0
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