Cost of replacing electrical cable?

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Undervalued said:

FreeBear said:

muffinek said: In the end the issue was with sockets lose screw.

Sis had a similar issue with her hallway lights. Posted an insulated screwdriver over, told her to turn the power off, and check the screw terminals. All it was, was a loose wire in the back of the switch, and she was well chuffed that she didn't need to call anyone in.

That will get a certain regular poster quite agitated!

Who knows he may even help out one day. 

Hasbeen

Undervalued said:

FreeBear said:

muffinek said: In the end the issue was with sockets lose screw.

Sis had a similar issue with her hallway lights. Posted an insulated screwdriver over, told her to turn the power off, and check the screw terminals. All it was, was a loose wire in the back of the switch, and she was well chuffed that she didn't need to call anyone in.

That will get a certain regular poster quite agitated!

Not if she complied with the latest edition of electrical regulations?  BS 7671: 2018 The 18th edition etc etc? 

stragglebod

Hope it was an actual insulated screwdriver, not one of those neon tester suicide sticks.

FreeBear

Hasbeen said: Not if she complied with the latest edition of electrical regulations?  BS 7671: 2018 The 18th edition etc etc? 

Only two wires (plus earth), not difficult to get wrong, and it either works, or it doesn't. As it was a basic repair, absolutely no need to call in an "expert" and have a small works certificate issued.

I'll get the fireproof suit out anyways...

stragglebod said: Hope it was an actual insulated screwdriver, not one of those neon tester suicide sticks.

I've commented on those things in the past. It was a proper VDE screwdriver that I sent over.

Niv

Risteard said:

Le_Kirk said:

Much depends on the situation.  Is there easy access (via a lot hatch for example) to the roof space above the light and switch.  Is the switch a pull cord switch fitted to the bathroom ceiling?  On the face of it doesn't seem like more than a couple of hours work and a bit of cable which most competent electricians will have "on their van."
Why do you think the cable needs to be replaced?

Not quite as simple as that. RCD protection will also be required if not already present. Earthing and bonding arrangements will also need to be adequate. So there are numerous factors. 

Hi @Risteard . I understood that an RCD would only need to be fitted if there was a new installation not a repair. Is my understanding incorrect?

Risteard

Niv said:

Risteard said:

Le_Kirk said:

Much depends on the situation.  Is there easy access (via a lot hatch for example) to the roof space above the light and switch.  Is the switch a pull cord switch fitted to the bathroom ceiling?  On the face of it doesn't seem like more than a couple of hours work and a bit of cable which most competent electricians will have "on their van."
Why do you think the cable needs to be replaced?

Not quite as simple as that. RCD protection will also be required if not already present. Earthing and bonding arrangements will also need to be adequate. So there are numerous factors. 

Hi @Risteard . I understood that an RCD would only need to be fitted if there was a new installation not a repair. Is my understanding incorrect?

No. All new work must comply with the Regulations. This requires RCD protection for cables concealed within the walls at a depth less than 50mm (so if the cable to the switch was replaced then this would apply), and also for all AC final circuits supplying luminaires in domestic (household) premises. 

So it is highly likely (even where repairing an existing lighting circuit) that RCD protection will be required. Replacing a faulty accessory like-for-like is about the only possible exception to this.