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Boiler leaking, currently self isolating

daivid
Posts: 1,285 Forumite


Have a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 28i and discovered last night it was leaking. Water had soaked through airing cupboard contents to the floor (luckily not to the ceiling below) so had been leaking at least a few days I would think. Will be self isolating until Friday, so the plumber (quite rightly) won't consider coming out till after then. The leak is a fine spray from a pinhole (pretty much invisible when lot leaking) in a plastic part of the hot water system. I've turned off the hot water inlet and the leak has stopped. My plan is (until I can get a plumber out) run the heating, and just switch the hot water on to run a bath for 2year old and quick showers then off again whilst using the heating as usual (and keeping a close eye on pressure gauge). Does this seem sensible?
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Do you have any good sturdy sticky tape you could wrap around the leak for now?The ideal thing would be self-amalgamating tape, but most people won't have that. But something like insulating tape, gaffer tape, or carpet tape wrapped tightly around the leak might be good enough to last for a few days. Make sure you clean and dry the section of pipe first.If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.1 -
Thanks for the suggestion. The leak is on a section of molded plastic with various 'pipe' sections but no voids in between as such I can't wrap anything around effectively as one could with a simple section of pipe. I could lay tape over but not wrap around. With regards to tape I have electrical, duct and heavy duty sticky tape but as I can only lay it in strips I'm not sure how effective they would be. I am contemplating a blob of araldite over the affected area or is that a waste of time?0
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I would say your plan is sensible.I've had this with a few Worcester 25Si boilers (same part), poorly made plastic manifold is the culprit. Switching it off whenever possible is a good idea. Technically you're not supposed to remove the casing unless you're a gas safe engineer. The manifold is hard enough to reach, no chance unless the casing is removed. With the water under pressure tape wouldn't be very effective. You could put an old towel in a bowl/tray under the boiler to catch the spray when it's on. You should be able to see where it's dripping from, as the spray hits the casing that's usually the left hand side.1
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Tape would only work if you can wrap it tightly around the hole.Araldite might work. Roughen up the area around the hole first, with sandpaper, nail file or whatever you can get in there, to help it to stick.If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
My "go to" quick & dirty fix would have been - https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-pipe-weld-cement-250ml/6368xBut if you are not able/willing to go out, then any waterproof glue would do. Super glue, Arifix, or Araldite. It probably won't last long, and may need doing again before a plumber (or gas engineer) can get in to do a proper repair.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
I "cured" a similar leak by sharpening a matchstick to a point, pushing it in, cutting off the excess and covering with epoxy glue. Was still there when I sold the house several years later.1
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FreeBear said:My "go to" quick & dirty fix would have been - https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-pipe-weld-cement-250ml/6368xI have that in the house (it says non-pressures systems so I discounted it but nothing I choose to use will be for it's intended purpose..) do you think it is the best bet out of it, araldite and super glue?Knightstyle: I can hardly see the hole with the naked eye (when the water isn't spraying out) so I think it is too small for an improvised bung but thank you for the suggestion.I will probably try a glue fix tonight after bath time for the little one so the glue has maximum time to cure. Also thinking of phoning the plumbers merchant tomorrow to order the part for when I can get a gas safe engineer out - I know its pessimistic but I don't want to have the engineer available but not the part if supplies become more difficult in the short term.0
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I would go for the araldite method.1 very strong when cured2 easy to work (superglue is thin and probably would cover just the hole) and apply over the hole and a big area around especially if it can be worked a bit round the back. Note the instructions above. Clean area first with kitchen towel and a bit of mdths if you have to degrease NOTE switch off boiler first, ensure no naked lights, as meths is flammable!!!!!Still keep bowl to had if short term problems remain.Only do in this sort of emergency!!!!1
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Well the solvent weld stopped the spraying but the water quickly found gaps to drip out of, so about the same amount of water escaping but less violently. Plumbers merchants said they would have the part in tomorrow. I assume they are classed as an essential business so will stay open, if that's the case I will be able to get it fixed as soon as I can get an engineer out.
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Welcome to the world of WB, best boilers they aren'tI'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
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