Shoddy boiler installation

nofoollikeold

1. The only fault you have listed above which would be a reason to turn it off would be the lack of sealing to the flue. Some boilers (e.g. some Vaillants) do not require the outside of the flue to be sealed to the wall, they supply a slip on rubber "boot". However, as stated above, there is no reason why anyone shouldn't seal the flue using sand and cement.
2. The pressure release valve should be connected to outside by a piece of 15 mm copper pipe through the wall, and be terminated outside in such a way that it points back at the wall. If it terminates at a level where hot water coming from it could hurt someone, it needs a guard over the termination.
3. As someone else has stated, wiring is not always done to the highest standards. Provided it is not actually dangerous or potentially dangerous, it could be sorted out in the summer (or not at all).
4. Consider sealing the flue then getting a more experienced and realistic gas safe registered engineer to check it and, hopefully, turn the gas back on again.

Dan-Dan

zerog wrote: »

Basically what you should have done, or now know for next time, is to either insist on the seller getting a gas safety certificate as part of your offer, or start the buying process in winter so that you have the house for summer and can make sure everything is ready for the next winter...

There is no particular need to get a certificate now - if the person who fixes it seems trustworthy (reviews, checkatrade) then you'd hope they will do a good job, whether they also provide a certificate or not. At least, they will be giving you an invoice saying they did the work.

And is actually Gas Safe qualified...

JackeeBoy

nofoollikeold wrote: »

1. The only fault you have listed above which would be a reason to turn it off would be the lack of sealing to the flue. Some boilers (e.g. some Vaillants) do not require the outside of the flue to be sealed to the wall, they supply a slip on rubber "boot". However, as stated above, there is no reason why anyone shouldn't seal the flue using sand and cement.
2. The pressure release valve should be connected to outside by a piece of 15 mm copper pipe through the wall, and be terminated outside in such a way that it points back at the wall. If it terminates at a level where hot water coming from it could hurt someone, it needs a guard over the termination.
3. As someone else has stated, wiring is not always done to the highest standards. Provided it is not actually dangerous or potentially dangerous, it could be sorted out in the summer (or not at all).
4. Consider sealing the flue then getting a more experienced and realistic gas safe registered engineer to check it and, hopefully, turn the gas back on again.

Thanks. This is reassuring.

As mentioned above, I called another guy today, sent pictures and he was saying I need a new boiler as the re-installation will cost just as much. Got a second opinion who says he can look at it tomorrow and going to call for a third today.

Alter_ego

Shaun_of_the_Dead wrote: »

but any decent solicitor would query fans, gas, electric, planning and building control paperwork.

Solicitors in my experience deal wit legal matters and do not concern themselves with other matters. Perhaps your experience is different though.

southcoastrgi

JackeeBoy wrote: »

He also said that, due to him only recently receiving his license, he would not feel comfortable fixing it up

This is your biggest problem, there is nothing on your list that warrants him turning your boiler off, nothing on your list requires the boiler being taken off the wall, the pressure issue could well be a flat expansion vessel, the flue just needs sealing with sand & cement & the safety pipe needs taking through the wall, no more than a couple of hours work, neither of the 2 guys seem to know what they are talking about tbh

JackeeBoy

southcoastrgi wrote: »

This is your biggest problem, there is nothing on your list that warrants him turning your boiler off, nothing on your list requires the boiler being taken off the wall, the pressure issue could well be a flat expansion vessel, the flue just needs sealing with sand & cement & the safety pipe needs taking through the wall, no more than a couple of hours work, neither of the 2 guys seem to know what they are talking about tbh

This is what is getting me quite annoyed now. The first guy didn't even diagnose what the issue was. He came in, moaned about the condition and said he'll give me a quote on a fix. Gave me a quote then called to say he wasn't comfortable fixing it. Second guy is saying I need a new boiler from pictures he can't get behind it to fix the pressure issue and taking it down will be too labour intensive.

We'll see what this third guy tomorrow is like.

southcoastrgi

Post up the pics

JimmyChanga

The first guy didn't even diagnose what the issue was. He came in, moaned about the condition and said he'll give me a quote on a fix.

When a tradesman goes into drama mode about the state of this and that, it's usually a red flag for me.

You're going to find a lot of these guys want to install a new boiler. The work that needs doing doesn't require a Gas Safe guy in any case.

JackeeBoy

Thanks again all. Final update.

I called one person yesterday who said he'll take a look at it in the morning (the second guy I contacted never got back to me) and arrived on time. Took a look and said; though it was bad, it was nothing that could not be fixed (the flue, pressure pipe etc.). Came back in the afternoon and within 3 or so hours sealed the flue outside and cut it down to side, fixed the condensation pipe outside and directed the pressure valve outside. He also did say that, because the pressure thing (that is to be pumped up) was at the back of the boiler, he could not get to it without taking it down so the pressure problem will probably persist (he did tighten a few things up that may have helped). He also recommended a new boiler "when I could afford one".

He also said that the other guy shouldn't have turned it off, especially without trying to fix up the damn thing. Oh well. Looks like I found a decent plumber in the process.

JimmyChanga

Sweet. But the pressure expansion vessel valve should be accessible. Sometimes they are in a fiddly place where it's hard to get a pump line onto.
That said, if the pressure drop was due to expansion vessel being deflated/faulty, the PRV should have dripped inside. You'll know if the vessel is the issue if the pressure goes close to or over 3 bar.