What finish for an oak kitchen worktop?

mooney89

Hi all,


I'm buying an unfinished roak worktop for a new kitchen and would like some advice about finishes I should apply, having read lots of contradictory information online. It's going in a fitted kitchen with navy units, with a matching upstand, and a porcelain sink unit and induction hob that will both sit on top of the worksurface.


My priorities:


practicality - I want it to be waterproof + stainproof as possible (I've a particularly clumsy partner, God bless her) - so worried about danish oil


time - I woud prefer not to have to reapply every 3/6 months - so worried about oil


I'm buying real wood so would prefer the least shiney surface possible - so worried about plastic coatings/ PU resin coatings or varnishes.


I''ve narrowed down the options to:


danish oil then a clear PU varnish (reccomended by a fella at Rustins)
Rustins plastic coating that Howdens use (Rustins advises not to oil before using this)
Osmo wood protector then Osmo top oil (as suggested by an online screwfix forum post I read)


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Doozergirl

If you want a waterproof worktop that doesn't need oiling or treating then you are buying the wrong worktop.

GDB2222

My only experience with oil was applying some to MIL's kitchen units. It really brought them up wonderfully, and it only took 30 minutes. You may be worrying unduly about having to re-oil the worktop every six months. I found it quite satisfying, and not at all hard to do.

JohnB47

I have an oak worktop and I'm particularly worried about this bit: "I've a particularly clumsy partner, God bless her".

Our worktop was fitted about 5 years ago and I finished it with Junkers Rustic Oil.

It lasted well for a few years then the problems started. Water would get under the finish and get trapped, then would produce black or dark brown stains Not all over, just in certain areas.

Now it needs completely sanded down and redone. I should have done this a year or two ago. I will use the Junkers again - good stuff.

In the meantime, I am paranoid about wiping everything wet (or oily) that gets set down - but my partner is less worried - the result is more marks and more stress for me!

If I had my time again I would not buy a solid wood worktop that needs an oil or varnish finish. It will always need retreated at some time.

Instead, I would look for a fully impermeable worktop with a 'not too hard' finish. i.e. not marble or fake stone - far too 'clacky' when things are set down on it. (I hate that when I go on hols and the kitchen has a hard finish worktop - everything I set down sound like its going to crack).

maisie_cat

OSMO top oil, expensive but good. You will always need to maintain oiled worktops, but granite doesn't like oil and plastic/glass in various forms is easy to damage. We have had oak but now have maple, much better in use.

neilmcl

mooney89 wrote: »

Hi all,


I'm buying an unfinished roak worktop for a new kitchen and would like some advice about finishes I should apply, having read lots of contradictory information online. It's going in a fitted kitchen with navy units, with a matching upstand, and a porcelain sink unit and induction hob that will both sit on top of the worksurface.


My priorities:


practicality - I want it to be waterproof + stainproof as possible (I've a particularly clumsy partner, God bless her) - so worried about danish oil


time - I woud prefer not to have to reapply every 3/6 months - so worried about oil


I'm buying real wood so would prefer the least shiney surface possible - so worried about plastic coatings/ PU resin coatings or varnishes.


I''ve narrowed down the options to:


danish oil then a clear PU varnish (reccomended by a fella at Rustins)
Rustins plastic coating that Howdens use (Rustins advises not to oil before using this)
Osmo wood protector then Osmo top oil (as suggested by an online screwfix forum post I read)


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Danish oil or pure linseed oil is all you need. There's absolutely no need to apply a varnish. Personally I prefer Iroko, it's a lot more forgiving than oak and can go longer without treatment.

rach_k

As others have said, if you don't want to do some maintenance on it, oak is not for you. Is it too late to change it? What is it you like about oak?

We've had ours in around 3 years now and I'm just about to sand it back and redo the oil for the second time so that's around once a year. I'm not about perfection though - I got oak because I wanted it to age and show some knocks - so about every 6 months is probably right if you want it pristine. I just redo it when it starts to look too shabby even for me!

I use an Ikea oil as we have an Ikea worktop. It's really easy to do. Sand it back - takes a few minutes per side of the kitchen - wipe it down, brush on the oil, leave it to soak in then wipe off the excess. Repeat if necessary. I do half of the kitchen at a time so it's not a total no-go zone for the kids. Takes a few hours if I'm being efficient or a day if I'm dawdling.

Sedge123

We have oak in our utility room and quartz I’m the kitchen. I would NEVER have oak in a kitchen- despite being really careful it’s marked after a couple of months. I know I can sand it and reoil but if this was in a large kitchen it would drive me mad.

Chrishazle

+1 for Osmo, you apply a sealer coat before the top oil, have a look on their website. Helped a friend install oak worktops a year or two back initially he finished them with Liberon Finishing Oil, that was no good, sanded back and used Osmo, it's been fine ever since.

phill99

As Doozergirl suggests, if you want low maintenance, Oak isn't for you.


If you want something up market at a similar price, then opt for a granite or quartz.