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Kwik fit/coil spring replacement

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Comments

  • AdrianC wrote: »
    You saw the droplink and strut top that came off, did you?

    I didn't need the extras. No I didn't see them but if they did need doing I'm sure my local garage would have advised me. They are a local trusted garage used by loads of people I know and I trust them 100%.
  • VFR
    VFR Posts: 96 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 10 Posts Name Dropper
    For MOT I take mine to our local council MOT place (they do not do repairs)
    Worth checking to see if you have one local ?
  • AdrianC
    AdrianC Posts: 42,189 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I didn't need the extras. No I didn't see them but if they did need doing I'm sure my local garage would have advised me
    We aren't talking about your car. We're talking about the OPs.

    Take the droplink.

    s-l300.jpg
    Those nuts go onto the end of studs which are part of the ball of the ball joint. The ball is free to move, relative to the rest of the joint. When it's new, there's a lot of resistance. Over the years, as the joint wears, it becomes easier to move. When it's badly worn, it will just rotate with trivial resistance - and the joint has play and makes noise as you drive. Years of muck and corrosion on the thread makes the nut harder to remove, even before you consider the stud trying to rotate. Yes, there's usually a small hex recess or a pair of flats on the stud to try to hold it still. They're rarely any use. The quickest and easiest way - often the only way - to remove them is to take a grinder to the nut.

    As for the strut top - removing the strut may well have revealed a lot of corrosion, deterioration, wear in the underside of the strut top that simply weren't visible from the small amount of the top that you can see.

    Both are consumables. The car's 8yo and 80k miles. Hardly a great surprise that both need doing soon.
    VFR wrote: »
    For MOT I take mine to our local council MOT place (they do not do repairs)
    Worth checking to see if you have one local ?
    The one time I took a car to a council test centre, it was made VERY plain to me that they did not want me there, and would have refused my booking if they could have.

    The test was ridiculously pernickerty, and I ended up with a fail and a mile-long lost of advisories - all somewhere between tenuous and manufactured. I took the hint. I took the car elsewhere. It passed, with no advisories.
  • As the council mot test centres do not do repairs just wondered what happens if car fails with dangerous fault ? I understand you cannot drive away to repair centre under new rules & would have to get a car transporter to move it ?
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  • AdrianC
    AdrianC Posts: 42,189 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    As the council mot test centres do not do repairs just wondered what happens if car fails with dangerous fault ? I understand you cannot drive away to repair centre under new rules & would have to get a car transporter to move it ?
    It's just as illegal to drive it away as it was to drive it there.
  • AdrianC wrote: »
    We aren't talking about your car. We're talking about the OPs.

    Take the droplink.

    s-l300.jpg
    Those nuts go onto the end of studs which are part of the ball of the ball joint. The ball is free to move, relative to the rest of the joint. When it's new, there's a lot of resistance. Over the years, as the joint wears, it becomes easier to move. When it's badly worn, it will just rotate with trivial resistance - and the joint has play and makes noise as you drive. Years of muck and corrosion on the thread makes the nut harder to remove, even before you consider the stud trying to rotate. Yes, there's usually a small hex recess or a pair of flats on the stud to try to hold it still. They're rarely any use. The quickest and easiest way - often the only way - to remove them is to take a grinder to the nut.

    As for the strut top - removing the strut may well have revealed a lot of corrosion, deterioration, wear in the underside of the strut top that simply weren't visible from the small amount of the top that you can see.

    Both are consumables. The car's 8yo and 80k miles. Hardly a great surprise that both need doing soon.


    The one time I took a car to a council test centre, it was made VERY plain to me that they did not want me there, and would have refused my booking if they could have.

    The test was ridiculously pernickerty, and I ended up with a fail and a mile-long lost of advisories - all somewhere between tenuous and manufactured. I took the hint. I took the car elsewhere. It passed, with no advisories.

    What are you blabbing on about. I said the £90 for the spring is a correct price going off what I paid at an indie garage. I said I didn't need the other bits doing. And my experience with Kwik Fit is they like to rip you off with other work.
  • AdrianC
    AdrianC Posts: 42,189 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I said I didn't need the other bits doing.
    And you have absolutely no idea whether the OP's car did or did not.
  • AdrianC wrote: »
    And you have absolutely no idea whether the OP's car did or did not.

    Oh do shut up.
  • loskie
    loskie Posts: 1,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    ladies do you need your handbags?

    What ridiculous behaviour.
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