DPF filling with soot too quickly

Doctor786

Hi every one, I have got Passat 2015 2.0 tdi with 133k miles. Recently bought it and since I have noticed that dpf regens at least twice in a day. It’s happening roughly every 50-60 miles. It will fill up to 40% to 50% but then it jumps straight to 100% and starts regen. Regen process completes as normal and soot reading goes down to 5%. Any ideas why dpf filling up so quickly? Today I did 200 miles and DPF regened 4 times. Any help would be much appreciated in advance.

No warning lights showing on the dashboard, car doesn't go in to limp mode. Car starts ok so don't think there is issue with injectors either. Fuel consumption is still very good. Could it be just case of pressure sensor sending wrong information to ecu to initiate DPF regen when acutally DPF is not full?

motorguy

Doctor786 wrote: »

Hi every one, I have got Passat 2015 2.0 tdi with 133k miles. Recently bought it and since I have noticed that dpf regens at least twice in a day. It’s happening roughly every 50-60 miles. It will fill up to 40% to 50% but then it jumps straight to 100% and starts regen. Regen process completes as normal and soot reading goes down to 5%. Any ideas why dpf filling up so quickly? Today I did 200 miles and DPF regened 4 times. Any help would be much appreciated in advance.

No warning lights showing on the dashboard, car doesn't go in to limp mode. Car starts ok so don't think there is issue with injectors either. Fuel consumption is still very good. Could it be just case of pressure sensor sending wrong information to ecu to initiate DPF regen when acutally DPF is not full?

I would say the DPF is nearly full and its not giving you the correct reading when it says its down to 5%.

ratrace

Doctor786 wrote: »

Hi every one, I have got Passat 2015 2.0 tdi with 133k miles. Recently bought it and since I have noticed that dpf regens at least twice in a day. It’s happening roughly every 50-60 miles. It will fill up to 40% to 50% but then it jumps straight to 100% and starts regen. Regen process completes as normal and soot reading goes down to 5%. Any ideas why dpf filling up so quickly? Today I did 200 miles and DPF regened 4 times. Any help would be much appreciated in advance.

No warning lights showing on the dashboard, car doesn't go in to limp mode. Car starts ok so don't think there is issue with injectors either. Fuel consumption is still very good. Could it be just case of pressure sensor sending wrong information to ecu to initiate DPF regen when acutally DPF is not full?

The only way mate to check is to get it on a diagnostic machine and view live date, and see what the pre and post dpf sensors are reading, it also could be the the dpf is nearly full ideally a manual clean or a replacment may be needed but the first port of call is see what the computer is seeing, all the best with it let us know how you get on

No one on a forum will be able to diagnose it over the net without seeing live data

sevenhills

When I was in the process of deciding whether or not to buy a deisel, I came to the conclution that drivers with a heavy right foot are likely to create more soot.
But as the posters above, maybe the DPF is already full, 133,000 miles. Has it been changed before?

gaz_moose

cars that tootle along on short journeys will probably suffer the most DPF problems. A company car that gets battered to death in the outside lane is at its optimum working temperature and burning off any ash in the DPF.

id probably pour a bottle of DPF cleaner additive stuff in the tank then go sit it on the motorway at high RPM for as long as you dare (an hour or so) to help clear it out and to get it upto temperature.

but as said it could be pretty full and want taking off and reverse jet washing to get all the ash out.

Doctor786

Thanks for the replies, I was hoping somebody might be able to help me if they had similar issues. On my last car i did 212k without any issues with the DPF. I am monitoring live data with the help of DPF pro app and I can see the soot levels come down from 23g to 5g. The thing i don't understand why the DPF goes from 50% full to 100% all of sudden.

People have mentioned oil could be making its way to exhaust system from leaky injectors or leaky turbo seal. Either there is faulty pressure sensor or some thing else wrong which results in producing too much soot.

ratrace

Doctor786 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies, I was hoping somebody might be able to help me if they had similar issues. On my last car i did 212k without any issues with the DPF. I am monitoring live data with the help of DPF pro app and I can see the soot levels come down from 23g to 5g. The think i don't understand why the DPF goes from 50% full to 100% all of sudden.

People have mentioned oil could be making its way to exhaust system from leaky injectors or leaky turbo seal. Either there is faulty pressure sensor or some thing else wrong which results in producing too much soot.

No you need to moniter the Ash Levels not the soot levels as that was is looked at on the scan tool, i assume you are using just a generic obd tool to view date, they are crap mate and the date they produce can be a bit iffy, we use vcds at work or but at home i just just my snapon but the vcds is much much better on vw cars than snap on as is for vw's

Like i said you have to take it to a garage that is good with vw's and let them take a look at it they will have come across similar problems before

Doctor786

ratrace wrote: »

No you need to moniter the Ash Levels not the soot levels as that was is looked at on the scan tool, i assume you are using just a generic obd tool to view date, they are crap mate and the date they produce can be a bit iffy, we use vcds at work or but at home i just just my snapon but the vcds is much much better on vw cars than snap on as is for vw's

Like i said you have to take it to a garage that is good with vw's and let them take a look at it they will have come across similar problems before

Lot of garages these days rely on error codes and with my car not showing any error codes at the moment not helping the situation.

ratrace

Doctor786 wrote: »

Lot of garages these days rely on error codes and with my car not showing any error codes at the moment not helping the situation.

If there are no error codes which by the way should never be 100% relied on they are just there to give you a direction ie: if there is a error code for an egr for example then the valve needs to be tested first before a replacment is fitted

in your case if there are no error codes then my approach would be back to basics, check wires/cables for power and grounds, connect a pressure gauge to the sensor with a meter connected to see if the sensor is responding to the voltage changes etc.... vcds is the best tool for vw's even if there are no codes stored it dosent matter as the live date will show what the sensors reading then you get that information and compare it to the manufacturer data to see if they are with in spec etc....

all this take time, which in turn costs money for the diagnostic,

i have just finished tracing a broken wire on a corsa took me 2 hours of testing and back probing the ecu to find it which had rubbed through etc.... cost of a new wire £5 cost of labour would have been £100 (£50hr) at the garage, it was a mates wifes car, did it free forhim but the point im making to find a fault it takes time and testing to eliminate possible causes

Doctor786

ratrace wrote: »

If there are no error codes which by the way should never be 100% relied on they are just there to give you a direction ie: if there is a error code for an egr for example then the valve needs to be tested first before a replacment is fitted

in your case if there are no error codes then my approach would be back to basics, check wires/cables for power and grounds, connect a pressure gauge to the sensor with a meter connected to see if the sensor is responding to the voltage changes etc.... vcds is the best tool for vw's even if there are no codes stored it dosent matter as the live date will show what the sensors reading then you get that information and compare it to the manufacturer data to see if they are with in spec etc....

all this take time, which in turn costs money for the diagnostic,

i have just finished tracing a broken wire on a corsa took me 2 hours of testing and back probing the ecu to find it which had rubbed through etc.... cost of a new wire £5 cost of labour would have been £100 (£50hr) at the garage, it was a mates wifes car, did it free forhim but the point im making to find a fault it takes time and testing to eliminate possible causes

You are right mate, finding the fault in this case won't be easy and could be very time consuming.

ibb.co/R2frgp2 add this at the start https://

Doctor786

ratrace wrote: »

If there are no error codes which by the way should never be 100% relied on they are just there to give you a direction ie: if there is a error code for an egr for example then the valve needs to be tested first before a replacment is fitted

in your case if there are no error codes then my approach would be back to basics, check wires/cables for power and grounds, connect a pressure gauge to the sensor with a meter connected to see if the sensor is responding to the voltage changes etc.... vcds is the best tool for vw's even if there are no codes stored it dosent matter as the live date will show what the sensors reading then you get that information and compare it to the manufacturer data to see if they are with in spec etc....

all this take time, which in turn costs money for the diagnostic,

i have just finished tracing a broken wire on a corsa took me 2 hours of testing and back probing the ecu to find it which had rubbed through etc.... cost of a new wire £5 cost of labour would have been £100 (£50hr) at the garage, it was a mates wifes car, did it free forhim but the point im making to find a fault it takes time and testing to eliminate possible causes

Took the DPF out and found oil inside and also found oil on the EGR cooler. The side which goes inside the DPF with the fins on the EGR cooler was covered with the oil as well. Any idea how oil is getting into EGR cooler?