Boiler won't repressure?

Ganga

thorganby wrote: »

Rubbish!

Filling loops should be removed after re-pressurising the system although most are left in place.

You definitley do not need to drain the system to remove the filling loop, that is what the valves are for, but if you want to pay a plumber to do such a simple task for you, then go ahead and waste your money.

Post a picture, as it is worth a thousand words if you need help with the valves.

I agree with the above,what have got to lose,the boiler is not working at the moment ,can you follow the pipework back and see if there is a shut-off vavle somewhere,paying a plumber should be you absolute last move.

Jon_01

thorganby wrote: »

Rubbish!

Filling loops should be removed after re-pressurising the system although most are left in place.

You definitley do not need to drain the system to remove the filling loop, that is what the valves are for, but if you want to pay a plumber to do such a simple task for you, then go ahead and waste your money.

Post a picture, as it is worth a thousand words if you need help with the valves.

I may not be grasping something here. . . the loop is hardwired into the system? It comes off a water piple like T with the down stroke being the fill side of the loop. I can't remove the loop without switching the water off and draining everything?

JimmyChanga

I may not be grasping something here. . . the loop is hardwired into the system? It comes off a water piple like T with the down stroke being the fill side of the loop. I can't remove the loop without switching the water off and draining everything?

Filling loops have isolation valves. Opening the valve pressurises the system to the correct value at which point you then close the valve otherwise the pressure would just keep increasing until it's blown out the safety valve.

Some loops have a valve just at the mains water side. Some have one at the central heating pipe side too. If there's no isolation valve on the CH side, it's because it's using a one way valve that seals itself.

When I spoke about the isolation valves earlier - are you looking at the where the CH pipes go into the boiler. These valves are on the brass fittings and don't have levers. They have to be turned with a spanner.

neilmcl

Jon_01 wrote: »

I may not be grasping something here. . . the loop is hardwired into the system? It comes off a water piple like T with the down stroke being the fill side of the loop. I can't remove the loop without switching the water off and draining everything?

It may make things a little easier to visualise if you upload a pic.

davemorton

As suggested earlier, have you tried opening a bleed valve whilst trying to fill it?

southcoastrgi

Pics pics pics because I think you are looking at the wrong thing

Jon_01

Ok, there you go.

The left side is the feed from the water main, the right side is the feed into the boiler.
I've had to recharge in the past and it's been, open the left, hear the water flow, open the right until the right pressure is reached and then close both valves. Now when I open the left, nothing happens and keeps happening when I open the right!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wa8CkPKD1hAG5uoSA

neilmcl

I'd be inclined to undo the loop on the mains side and open the valve (with a basin at hand) just to see if the water is still flowing.

I notice to the right in the picture under the flooring there's a cold water isolation valve (blue handle), what's this for and is it open?

Also, if it is a filling loop, why is there an inhibitor sticker placed on the mains feed?

Jon_01

neilmcl wrote: »

I'd be inclined to undo the loop on the mains side and open the valve (with a basin at hand) just to see if the water is still flowing.

I notice to the right in the picture under the flooring there's a cold water isolation valve (blue handle), what's this for and is it open?

Also, if it is a filling loop, why is there an inhibitor sticker placed on the mains feed?

I'll try to undo the loop later. Worth a try. . .

That's not the floor, it's worktop. The boilers in the garage. The blue valve is the cold feed to the washing machine.

southcoastrgi

As neil said I'd undo the loop on the main to make sure it's not just the handle turning & just for your info the valves are the wrong way round the check valve should be on the main