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Doors for fitted kitchen - avoiding vulnerability to water damage

JohnGeddes
Posts: 5 Forumite
I'm nearly ready to choose a manufacturer for a fitted kitchen, but I am stuck on the question of door construction.
With any "fielded" panel (ie with a thinner middle and a thicker edge), the bottom transition (from thin to thick) is an obvious weak point if there is the risk of water dripping on the door, eg under a sink.
Accepting that one would ideally never splash water, there is the question of what happens when water DOES splash (or even occasionally pour) over the door.
Foil laminate is arguably best, until the foil cracks - at which point it is bad news. Our old kitchen was of this type, and the foil cracked and the MDF behind swelled, and it looks dreadful. Once bitten ...
Solid wood sounded good, until I asked the salesperson at diykitchens about the centre panel. For their range, at least (and I suspect many others), the answer was that solid wood framed doors have a panel of wood veneer (on MDF, I presume) - and there is no attempt to fill the gap between the frame and the panel: there is an appreciable gap.
So any splashed water will fall into the gap and sit there until it evaporates or is absorbed by the MDF. So that seems even worse than laminate for vulnerability to water.
Solid wood with a solid centre panel might be better - but I strongly suspect that one is into very top-end ranges to find this.
Does any major manufacturer offer solid wood frame and veneer centre panel with added mastic/caulking/filler to seal the gap? If so, does anyone have any experience on how long it stays effective and how easy it is to replace when it eventually hardens too far to be useful, without wrecking a painted finish?
Has anyone tried applying mastic/caulking/filler to doors of a new kitchen themselves?
With any "fielded" panel (ie with a thinner middle and a thicker edge), the bottom transition (from thin to thick) is an obvious weak point if there is the risk of water dripping on the door, eg under a sink.
Accepting that one would ideally never splash water, there is the question of what happens when water DOES splash (or even occasionally pour) over the door.
Foil laminate is arguably best, until the foil cracks - at which point it is bad news. Our old kitchen was of this type, and the foil cracked and the MDF behind swelled, and it looks dreadful. Once bitten ...
Solid wood sounded good, until I asked the salesperson at diykitchens about the centre panel. For their range, at least (and I suspect many others), the answer was that solid wood framed doors have a panel of wood veneer (on MDF, I presume) - and there is no attempt to fill the gap between the frame and the panel: there is an appreciable gap.
So any splashed water will fall into the gap and sit there until it evaporates or is absorbed by the MDF. So that seems even worse than laminate for vulnerability to water.
Solid wood with a solid centre panel might be better - but I strongly suspect that one is into very top-end ranges to find this.
Does any major manufacturer offer solid wood frame and veneer centre panel with added mastic/caulking/filler to seal the gap? If so, does anyone have any experience on how long it stays effective and how easy it is to replace when it eventually hardens too far to be useful, without wrecking a painted finish?
Has anyone tried applying mastic/caulking/filler to doors of a new kitchen themselves?
0
Comments
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Lacquered doors offer the best protection for water ingress. Not sure if they offer them in the style of door you want, theyre normally high gloss style.0
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I would assume most joints are lacquered, painted or waxed to prevent water entering them, I've never actually see a door damaged in that way. To me it is far more important to have a surface that doesn't show grease splashes or have tipped-over cups of tea ruining it! My son has a fairly new dark blue and white Shaker kitchen and is finding the recommended dish soap and water does not remove all marks. The mouldings of a 5-part door seem very susceptible to gathering dust and grease.
The Stanbury painted design at diy seems to be a lacquered Shaker style. Howden's Chelford and Lewes designs have the internal panel routered out of a solid piece of MDF, so no joins - painted MDF. The Tewkesbury has a stained and lacquered oak version."Cheap", "Fast", "Right" -- pick two.0
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