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Building survey - action points help
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Boozle
Posts: 28 Forumite
Sorry, another thread about building surveys.
I am buying a 4 bed 1900s Victorian terrace in Liverpool. I'm paying full asking price. I am aware this means I've probably gone over what it's top end valuation might be, but the property is 'perfect' for what we need and we love it, so I've gone into it with my eyes open and am happy with the price I'm paying.
I got the building survey back yesterday. Buying a Victorian house I am prepared for there to be issues which are part and parcel of owning a property like this. Mostly the survey is good, the overall opinion is "Considering the property's age it is in a condition which is considered to be mainly consistent with its age and type of construction." But there are a couple of 3s that need my attention.
there is inadequate ventilation provided to the roof space. The performance of many roofs has been impaired by the introduction of roofing felts and insulation. Although many roofing felts are now marketed as being vapour permeable, until recently almost all felts were impervious....I recommend the insertion of a minimum four number ventilation tiles with two to the front pitch and two to the rear pitch to provide cross ventilation.
The wall between this property and the neighbouring dwelling (called the party wall) is part missing and will allow fire to pass from one property to another (see section J3 Risks). This is a security risk and fire hazard. You should organise the repair of the wall and the sealing of any gaps to the underside of the roof covering now. The owner of the neighbouring property has a number of legal rights over this party wall. You should check with your legal adviser before you organise any work.
'Areas of damp' have also been found (pictures of the dreaded meter) but completely non-specific and no photos of any damp patches etc. There is no damp smell in the house (we have visited during heavy rain). The meter has thrown up a damp reading, I assume this is condensation/salts, and I note on the photos he has included the vendor was doing laundry, which I assume throws out moisture. I will be asking for more information on this. This has also thrown up a '3' on the floor as he can't check for timber damp. However he does note the skirting etc is in good condition, with no signs of mould and wear consistent with age, which means nothing has been replaced and appears not to indicate damp.
Also this 2 -
The mortar between the bricks (called the pointing) to the external walls has eroded and or cracked in areas. In itself this may not sound too serious, but as neglected it will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability and water penetration. It would also be prudent to monitor for future repointing due to its exposure to weathering. General maintenance and repairs will be required. A number of the bricks to the external walls have deteriorated (called spalling). Porous brickwork absorbs moisture which freezes and expands in cold weather and forces off the exterior face of the brick. If neglected it will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability, water penetration and even disintegration. General maintenance and repairs will be required. There are areas of defective brickwork to the external walls. General maintenance and repairs will be required. There are isolated bricks which are defective and cracked. It is believed the disturbance in the masonry is local as there is no other obvious signs of movement, or further cracking to the surrounding visible surface areas, internally or externally. It is unusual for a crack to pass through the whole bricks as normally any slight movement is taken up within the mortar joints which are designed to be marginally weaker than the bricks themselves. It is likely that the mortar may be somewhat harder than normal which has caused a fracture. It is also possible, that it may have been caused during the creation of the brick(s), often being overfired causing weakness, or occurred during construction and never repaired. Whilst this is considered localised, and not likely to be serious, it is recommend to cut out the defective bricks and replace using a medium duty mix frost resistant mortar to the disturbed joints.
Am I right in thinking all of this above is just regular wear and tear? Otherwise there's no evidence of issues with subsidence etc.
So - my plan of action is to get a builder out and quote for the works to the roof and ask for these to be done, as I'm not happy to have a part disassembled wall in the property. I will ask them to advise on the ventilation. I'll also get the builder to look at the bricks, but unless there's water ingress or something major I'll wear the cost of that in future as maintenance.
I'm hesitant to get a damp survey without more information. I am going to ask the vendor about damp issues.
Does this all sound right/reasonable to you?
I am buying a 4 bed 1900s Victorian terrace in Liverpool. I'm paying full asking price. I am aware this means I've probably gone over what it's top end valuation might be, but the property is 'perfect' for what we need and we love it, so I've gone into it with my eyes open and am happy with the price I'm paying.
I got the building survey back yesterday. Buying a Victorian house I am prepared for there to be issues which are part and parcel of owning a property like this. Mostly the survey is good, the overall opinion is "Considering the property's age it is in a condition which is considered to be mainly consistent with its age and type of construction." But there are a couple of 3s that need my attention.
there is inadequate ventilation provided to the roof space. The performance of many roofs has been impaired by the introduction of roofing felts and insulation. Although many roofing felts are now marketed as being vapour permeable, until recently almost all felts were impervious....I recommend the insertion of a minimum four number ventilation tiles with two to the front pitch and two to the rear pitch to provide cross ventilation.
The wall between this property and the neighbouring dwelling (called the party wall) is part missing and will allow fire to pass from one property to another (see section J3 Risks). This is a security risk and fire hazard. You should organise the repair of the wall and the sealing of any gaps to the underside of the roof covering now. The owner of the neighbouring property has a number of legal rights over this party wall. You should check with your legal adviser before you organise any work.
'Areas of damp' have also been found (pictures of the dreaded meter) but completely non-specific and no photos of any damp patches etc. There is no damp smell in the house (we have visited during heavy rain). The meter has thrown up a damp reading, I assume this is condensation/salts, and I note on the photos he has included the vendor was doing laundry, which I assume throws out moisture. I will be asking for more information on this. This has also thrown up a '3' on the floor as he can't check for timber damp. However he does note the skirting etc is in good condition, with no signs of mould and wear consistent with age, which means nothing has been replaced and appears not to indicate damp.
Also this 2 -
The mortar between the bricks (called the pointing) to the external walls has eroded and or cracked in areas. In itself this may not sound too serious, but as neglected it will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability and water penetration. It would also be prudent to monitor for future repointing due to its exposure to weathering. General maintenance and repairs will be required. A number of the bricks to the external walls have deteriorated (called spalling). Porous brickwork absorbs moisture which freezes and expands in cold weather and forces off the exterior face of the brick. If neglected it will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability, water penetration and even disintegration. General maintenance and repairs will be required. There are areas of defective brickwork to the external walls. General maintenance and repairs will be required. There are isolated bricks which are defective and cracked. It is believed the disturbance in the masonry is local as there is no other obvious signs of movement, or further cracking to the surrounding visible surface areas, internally or externally. It is unusual for a crack to pass through the whole bricks as normally any slight movement is taken up within the mortar joints which are designed to be marginally weaker than the bricks themselves. It is likely that the mortar may be somewhat harder than normal which has caused a fracture. It is also possible, that it may have been caused during the creation of the brick(s), often being overfired causing weakness, or occurred during construction and never repaired. Whilst this is considered localised, and not likely to be serious, it is recommend to cut out the defective bricks and replace using a medium duty mix frost resistant mortar to the disturbed joints.
Am I right in thinking all of this above is just regular wear and tear? Otherwise there's no evidence of issues with subsidence etc.
So - my plan of action is to get a builder out and quote for the works to the roof and ask for these to be done, as I'm not happy to have a part disassembled wall in the property. I will ask them to advise on the ventilation. I'll also get the builder to look at the bricks, but unless there's water ingress or something major I'll wear the cost of that in future as maintenance.
I'm hesitant to get a damp survey without more information. I am going to ask the vendor about damp issues.
Does this all sound right/reasonable to you?
0
Comments
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And did the surveyor's valuation agree with the agreed offer?I am buying a 4 bed 1900s Victorian terrace in Liverpool.
...
I got the building survey back yesterday. Buying a Victorian house I am prepared for there to be issues which are part and parcel of owning a property like this. Mostly the survey is good, the overall opinion is "Considering the property's age it is in a condition which is considered to be mainly consistent with its age and type of construction."
If you're ever doing things to the roof, it might be wise, but I wouldn't sweat it too much if there's no sign of problems. Roofs are rarely anything approaching airtight...But there are a couple of 3s that need my attention.
there is inadequate ventilation provided to the roof space. The performance of many roofs has been impaired by the introduction of roofing felts and insulation. Although many roofing felts are now marketed as being vapour permeable, until recently almost all felts were impervious....I recommend the insertion of a minimum four number ventilation tiles with two to the front pitch and two to the rear pitch to provide cross ventilation.
How many times has it burned down over the last 120 years...? If you're worried about security, put a padlock and hasp on the loft hatch.The wall between this property and the neighbouring dwelling (called the party wall) is part missing and will allow fire to pass from one property to another (see section J3 Risks). This is a security risk and fire hazard. You should organise the repair of the wall and the sealing of any gaps to the underside of the roof covering now. The owner of the neighbouring property has a number of legal rights over this party wall. You should check with your legal adviser before you organise any work.
Generic backside covering.'Areas of damp' have also been found (pictures of the dreaded meter) but completely non-specific and no photos of any damp patches etc. There is no damp smell in the house (we have visited during heavy rain). The meter has thrown up a damp reading, I assume this is condensation/salts, and I note on the photos he has included the vendor was doing laundry, which I assume throws out moisture. I will be asking for more information on this. This has also thrown up a '3' on the floor as he can't check for timber damp.
Yup.Also this 2 -
The mortar between the bricks (called the pointing) to the external walls has eroded and or cracked in areas. In itself this may not sound too serious, but as neglected it will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability and water penetration. It would also be prudent to monitor for future repointing due to its exposure to weathering. General maintenance and repairs will be required. A number of the bricks to the external walls have deteriorated (called spalling). Porous brickwork absorbs moisture which freezes and expands in cold weather and forces off the exterior face of the brick. If neglected it will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability, water penetration and even disintegration. General maintenance and repairs will be required. There are areas of defective brickwork to the external walls. General maintenance and repairs will be required. There are isolated bricks which are defective and cracked. It is believed the disturbance in the masonry is local as there is no other obvious signs of movement, or further cracking to the surrounding visible surface areas, internally or externally. It is unusual for a crack to pass through the whole bricks as normally any slight movement is taken up within the mortar joints which are designed to be marginally weaker than the bricks themselves. It is likely that the mortar may be somewhat harder than normal which has caused a fracture. It is also possible, that it may have been caused during the creation of the brick(s), often being overfired causing weakness, or occurred during construction and never repaired. Whilst this is considered localised, and not likely to be serious, it is recommend to cut out the defective bricks and replace using a medium duty mix frost resistant mortar to the disturbed joints.
Am I right in thinking all of this above is just regular wear and tear?0 -
And did the surveyor's valuation agree with the agreed offer?
There wasn't a valuation included (I'm a cash buyer, no mortgage). We've been looking around the area at similar properties over the past 6 months, I feel like it is in line, but at the upper end. However, the property has been refurbished fairly recently and is in a 'move in' condition, which is why I was happy to go full asking price on it. It's in an area where properties sell very quickly (usually before they get on rightmove etc). Plus it's to be a permanent home for hopefully many years, so not an 'investment' per se.
Thank you for replying.0 -
it is recommend to cut out the defective bricks and replace using a medium duty mix frost resistant mortar to the disturbed joints.
I would look to see if any of the brickwork has been repointed and what type of mortar was used. Spalling bricks suggest that a cement based mortar could have been used. In which case, it needs raking out and replaced with a more appropriate mix. For a Victorian property with solid brick walls, a pure lime mortar should be used (either NHL2 or NHL3.5 or in a sheltered area, lime putty). Not many builders are willing to work with lime mortars, and some will mix a bit of cement in "to speed up setting" - These types need to be reeducated with a swift kick up the rear and ejected from site. Find a builder prepared to use a proper lime mortar and the building will thank you for it in the long term.Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Thank you. I’m intending to get out a friendly builder to take a look.0
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None of that is serious or urgent.
In due course send a chap up a ladder to replace some roof tiles with ventilation tiles.
Party wall. It was (is) common for the party wall in the attic to be half-height or non-existant back in the day. Moneysaving. Fire safety was less considered and everyone left their front doors unlocked so security was not an issue!
If either factor worry you, invite your neighbour to tea once you've bought, bake a nice cake, and discuss installing a full-height fire resistant wall. If neighbour is not concerned (after, he's lived there without worrying for some time), offer tocover the cost yourself provided he agrees to the work.
If he refuses, you could install a parallel wall next to the existing one, just on your side of the attic.
If there's no visual sign of damp, no peeling wallpaper, no staining, and no musty smell, I'd not worry. But check exactly where the meter identified damp and take a look outside at those points. Gutters? drains? Or pointing.... (see next!)
The pointing and randon defective bricks can be replaced whn you have time/money. Not expensive or difficult or urgent unless that is the cause of the damp........0 -
Thank you.
I have gone back to the surveyors with questions regarding the damp. I pointed out that they mention areas of localised damp, but don't include pictures of this (I do have a load of random wide-shot pictures of rooms with no explanation for them). I asked for specifics as to where the damp was detected and for the surveyor to contact me via telephone to discuss.
I got a snooty email back from his administrator which gave me the make and model of his protimeter and a load of stock nonsense about how damp is detected. It went on to say he detected damp in the kitchen, hall and utility room and that the "surveyor advises that the majority of readings were of low to extremely high level." I mean, that's laughably vague. He's refusing to speak to me so I can ask for specifics, but this feels like massive backside covering. There was no damp detected upstairs, but he's included pictures of the bedrooms in the damp section of the survey.
My conveyancing solicitor also gave me a call today and said she was pretty shocked at how vague the survey was in places, (he's also neglected to properly fill in section I). He also states the property doesn't have an extension.
The property has been extended. Very obviously. He even has photos of it.
To me, damp in the kitchen, utility and hall suggests condensation. I need to get a builder to check the roof and walls to ensure there are no issues with brickwork.0 -
I'm afraid that's the difference between a cut-price surveyor and one who charges enough to be willing to go the extra mile..
......He's refusing to speak to me so I can ask for specifics, but this feels like massive backside covering. ......
I would always speak to the surveyor before instructing them to discuss the property as well as confirm they are happy/willing to discuss anything in their report that I need clarifying. Worth paying a bit extra for that....0 -
It wasn’t a cheap survey by any means. I deliberately went for a large firm that had been established many years, and got recommendations. The EA was trying to push me at the cheaper one man bands.0
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There wasn't a valuation included (I'm a cash buyer, no mortgage). We've been looking around the area at similar properties over the past 6 months, I feel like it is in line, but at the upper end. However, the property has been refurbished fairly recently and is in a 'move in' condition, which is why I was happy to go full asking price on it. It's in an area where properties sell very quickly (usually before they get on rightmove etc). Plus it's to be a permanent home for hopefully many years, so not an 'investment' per se.
Thank you for replying.
Refurbished or redecorated?
They are not the same thing.0 -
I’m not sure. New windows, new gch, new bathroom, new kitchen, new flooring, some re-plastering, redecorated throughout. Is that refurb or redec?0
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